Note: when showing ALL, new contributions are displayed in the order of Routes, Areas, Photos, and Comments
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Gemstone (5.8)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: 5.8 leaders will probably want extra cams from thin hands to large hands sizes, and maybe a #4 camalot on p2.
The wide crack at the start of p1 might take a #6 camalot, but I'm not sure. If you wedge yourself way back in there, falling out probably won't happen, but it's certainly not graceful.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Seamingly Hard (5.10b)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: Thanks, Marc.
I remember attempting, and backing off of, "Seamingly Hard" around 2003, thinking it would take more stones than I had, but I didn't remember any specifics about how many bolts were there back then and did not know more had been added when I led this climb last weekend. [I originally listed the climb as PG-13, as an average of my impressions, but with the new bolts, it's not so bad, so it makes sense that the route had changed, rather than my mindset.]
I'm sad to hear of the acci... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone West : Seamingly Hard (5.10b)
By: Marc Beverly When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: Just a point of clarification:
The bolted route is "Seamingly Drunk," a combination of the "Seamingly Hard" start, and the "Drunken Master" finish. The line was retro bolted after the 4th known ground fall and subsequent rescue ensued in 2009. Ground fall potential is far less and the quality line now exists. The rating of the bolted line is .10b/c
Cheers,
Marc Beverly
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Flake n' Bake : Flake n' Bake (5.5)
By: Chris Tucker When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> | Comments: Doug and I climbed yesterday 10/25. This was a great route for doing my second and third traditional leads. Didn't go all the way to the top anchors, we treated the (seemingly) optional start from below as the start. If you come in below the canyon there is a reasonably 5.easy slab section to the left, or a more scramble section off to the right. We free'd a portion of the slab to the left then roped in about 80 ft to the first anchors on the "Lunch Ledge". We'll do it differently next time... more >>
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