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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Second Coming (5.7)
By: saxfiend When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Joshua McDaniel wrote: I would suggest belaying just after the crux at the first ledge.
I agree, there's no good reason to climb higher to what would be a marginal anchor. I've always used this first ledge whenever I've led Second Coming; there's very solid placements for anchoring there (which is probably why the bolts were chopped), and I've never experienced any rope drag on the second pitch.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Second Coming (5.7)
By: Joshua McDaniel When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Hadn't climbed this route in quite a few years, and someone on the ground told me that 'avoid rope drag on the last pitch by climbing 10-15 feet higher than the ledge just after the crux.'
So I did this and it puts you right underneath the big hanging flake corner. The crack in the corner at the '2nd' ledge is very hollow. I had to tap around for quite a while to find sound placements to belay up my second.
I would suggest belaying just after the crux at the first ledge.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Bombelay (5.11+)
By: Tim Snyder When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bombelay is one, certifiable, badass rock climb. 100ft of high quality face climbing.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : Predator (5.12+)
By: Bob Rotert When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome masterpiece route by Whitney! Nice to see this written up here. I'm not so sure about the 12+ rating given here in the description. If I recall correctly. I was visting from Colorado and climbing with him when he did the first free ascent around 1990 or so. He had placed all the bolts & been working on freeing it previously. I did the second free lead, belayed by him, on this right after his ascent. It would be nice to think it was 12+, consensus will tell. From what I remember it didn't... more >>
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Womb (5.11a)
By: nbrown When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike A,
You're right about the dead tree. There should be some discussion soon about placing an anchor out to the climbers right at the top of Cornflake's 3rd pitch. I also agree that it would be ideal to have an anchor on top of the second pitch of Cornflake as well. This would facilitate a single rope rap from any route on the buttress.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Good Intentions (5.6)
By: Joseph Brown When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a comfortable route with good placements - just keep going right-up-right, rather than up-right-up - the placements start drying up on the left side as you get closer to the ledge.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Left Up (5.7)
By: Joseph Brown When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route leads to an expansive ledge with bolted rap rings shared with two other popular routes, "Good Intentions" and "Right Up".
To save my ankles, I usually lead "Good Intentions" and setup a top-rope anchor on the wall just below the ledge to work the other two routes as well as variances in between.
I've rappelled this ledge with a 60m single rope, so unless your rope is short, I wouldn't sweat using two ropes to get down.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Right Up (5.9)
By: Joseph Brown When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route leads to an expansive ledge with bolted rap rings shared with two other popular routes, "Good Intentions" and "Left Up".
The tree mentioned in the beta is adequate for rappelling, but why stress the tree when bolts are in easy reach?
To save my ankles, I usually lead "Good Intentions" and setup a top-rope anchor on the wall just below the ledge to work the other two routes as well as variances in between.
I'll usually lower after the first 30 feet until I'm ready to clean up and ... more >>
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Lichen or Not (5.5)
By: Joseph Brown When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route with a new partner yesterday - while we were up at the top, I added another new cordellete & rap ring to the big tree at the top of the route.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Cornflake Crack (5.11a)
By: Tzilla Rapdrilla When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In 35 years of climbing this still rates as the best 5.11 trad climb in my book. Way better than the Naked Edge.
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