Latest Comments |
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Juji Fruit : Juji Fruit (5.12-)
By: furrymurry When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely burly, and having the fixed nut helps. The 5.12 rating is probably a little more solid now that somebody broke that left foot nubbin off...ma bad.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Desperate Reality Cliff : Black Crack (5.10a/b)
By: banks When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Revised rack for Black Crack:
You'll need two cams 4" or larger to protect the first twenty feet of the crack. A #4 C4 Camalot works well as the second big piece, but you should carry a bigger piece, like an old-style #4.5 Camalot or a #5 Wild Country Friend to protect the initial offwidth section. I haven't tried placing a #5 C4 here but I think it might be a tight fit, especially if you're wanting to slide the cam up a few feet as you climb. Hope this helps.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Juji Fruit : Juji Fruit (5.12-)
By: adampeters When: Nov 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short. Good. Probably 12a if you have to place the fixed nut that is there now, but otherwise may be 11+, having a real hard time trying to grade this...
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs : The (Other) Dihedral (5.6)
By: Stan Jones When: Nov 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you climb this on the original line, which is staying on the dihedral and not traversing right into the chimney, you'll have great pro the whole way. Big cams up high (#3 to #5).
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Elk Slabs : Great Expectations (5.5)
By: Stan Jones When: Nov 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this on a 50m rope and just barely had enough to reach the P1 belay station. The rap off P1 is about 150 ft, so two 50's are fine. If you rap off P2, don't even consider trying to reach the middle belay station on the Water Streak wall with a single 60m - you'll come up about 10 ft short.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Slap Roof (5.5)
By: Mike Harris DFW When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is much tougher if you start in the corner. Crux is the first move that I think goes 5.8. Anticipated an easy warm-up on lead but, found the first move was stout for its grade.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Baptist on the Rampage (5.10b R)
By: steven charles When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10b? really?! i guess i really need to refine my slabby skils.
btw, a buddy of mine took a good whipper on that yesterday and came away with nothing but a pretty sore hip, elbow, and spirit.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Wizard Wall : Asleep at the Wheel (5.12a)
By: Bad Bob When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I remember doing this route in spring/summer of 1993 as the name sounds very familiar. If memory serves, it is almost directly across the river from the descent into the canyon and consists of 4-6 bolts...not my intent to provide beta, but to try and remember experiences there. I think it was installed around that time by climbers from Austin, of course the names escape me, but they were pretty excited about it and I may have had the second ascent. On the last clip before the anchors ... more >>
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : No Stone Unturned (5.9)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: be advised that the flake right below the bolt at the lip of the overhang flexes. Its loose and could possibly blow while your clipping the bolt resulting in groundfall if you do like i do and make that bolt your first piece. I would advise throwing in a friend in the crack to the right to protect yourself until you get the bolt. The hold still seems strong, but will eventually most likely blow out. Pull with care.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, you can climb on the opposite side of the creek now. In the past it was closed because of a five year study to determine if climbers were making an impact on the area. After a finding of no significant impact the ban was lifted. You can now climb there. There is still no sport rapelling allowed in the narrows though.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Lichen Wall : Ker Plunk (5.7) : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, check out how clear the corner below Leage of Doom...the Poision Ivy looks like it has been trimmed back. Nice.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Pear and Apple (Bouldering) : The Smoking Section : ... : Photo
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fantastic, the usual quality that I have come to expect from your photographs.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Marlboro Man Wall
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am not sure this area is open to climbing? Uninformed as I am, I know the sign for no climbing has been removed, so I could be totally wrong. One of the Okies would know for sure, me being just a TX boy.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott : Foolish Behavior (5.9+ PG13)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would agree that this route whips like an R, but seeing that the deck is out of play, I gotta stay with PG-13.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott : Yee Haw (5.6)
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great soloable downclimb, if you are leading 9's
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows
By: Craig Childre When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the primary function of that sign was to keep the boy scouts from setting up rap lines when they should head over to Meat Slab or just go further down canyon. Even though sport rapping is off limits, it goes on all the time.
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