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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over and Out (5.8)
By: Dave Holliday When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is well worth doing (the corner to the left of the Over the Hill finger crack). It's tricky in spots but takes pretty good gear. The second pitch is rated 8+ in the new Eldo guidebook which I think is fairly accurate.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Emerald City (5.9)
By: Joey Wolfe When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Listen to the comments above and climb emerald city to the second pitch of Over the Hill or as I refer to it now the "Emerald Hill". Great climbing!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: John Parnigoni When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got my redpoint last Wednesday on this route. While trying to make moves above the crux pin, I also considered putting something in the crack above. But then, suddenly... I felt my right fingers in that same crack slip.... right into a bomber Indian Creek style Ring-lock. I knew then, it was safe to proceed without futher protection!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Emerald City (5.9)
By: Phill T When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pitch. Dunno about sustained (at all) and this was my first 5.9 lead. A few thin moves, but you always have a jug/ledge in view that is a move or two away to shoot for. As long as you look a move or two ahead (especially for your feet) it's pretty easy. Got in 'trouble' up top when I thought I would walk the last 10 feet of the first dihedral, had to downclimb to a stance after pumping myself out in a ridiculous bearhug with the dihedral. Looked at it with a more critical eye and then... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Wendego (5.12a R)
By: Dusty When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wendego is excellent. Super desperate. I can't fathom climbing it barefoot. Skip is badass.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Climb Of The Century (5.11b)
By: Guy Humphrey When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be careful placing a blue Alien in the slot before the crux move to the jug. We fixed one that took 15-20 minutes to extract. A black Alien or blue ballnut might work better there.
We also managed to temporarily stick a blue Alien before the pin. The trigger bar became wedged in the crack. I guess it wasn't a good day for blue Aliens for us.
Great climb with good gear and holds when you need them, but not at the same time.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Rincon (5.11a)
By: Michael McKinnon When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shame on me for not doing this climb earlier, but all the spray and hype scared me off. The pin is fine. If you have seen the pin on C'est La Vie, then you know what a bad pin is. This pin is nowhere near the catastrophe that the C'est La Vie pin is. I did not use it because as far as 11a's go, this thing is soft. Stem all the way up and reach high left for a bomber lock and pull - all done. I would say you don't even need to place the nut (a la TB). Way easier than Super Slab, Art's Spar, Grand... more >>
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