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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Polaris, 12a, 10p (5.12a)
By: Colin Moorhead When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent, sustained route with a lot of straight in jamming. A nice change from the endless lieback treadmills off other area grade IV's.
Great Job Chris!
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Diedre (5.8)
By: Conor Raney When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: was a great climb!!! loved it!
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Slot Machine (5.9)
By: Mark Roberts When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Only the first move is hard, the rest is a lark. Good route to take beginners who want a bit of the mountain experience without committing to hauling them up the apron.
There's anchor bolts at the top of the second pitch if you keep going up the wide crack past the tree anchor...that got me confused to be honest.
We were deliberating whether to rap down or not, but the walk-off was really quite straight forward and probably faster too.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Arrowroot (5.10b)
By: jaredvg When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A new(er) set of chains 15 feet right of the crack at 15 to 20 meters up the wall allows escape from this climb with a single 60 meter rope in 2 rappels. To do this, belay from the top anchor, and both climbers will have to make 2 raps. A single 60 meter rope will not even come close to reaching the ground.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: khoa When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: a spillar crack?
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Borderline (5.10d)
By: Eric Hirst When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Andy. I agree with your pitch ratings, even though I spent years telling people the OW was 5.9+, then giggling about it afterwards. Rope drag is definitely a concern on p5 -- one less obvious trick is to use a very short QD or even a single locker at the first bolt.
I love pitch 3. The long splitter above the bolted section is sustained, but definitely not 10d. With the p2 bypass variation, I think the hardest single gear-protected move on the entire route is about 10a -- nothing as h... more >>
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Sunblessed (5.10c PG13)
By: anthony509 When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy to miss the approach trail(s). No smashed bolts when I seconded this. Great views.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Angel's Crest (5.10b)
By: Sarah Kate When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can link p1 and p2, p3 and p4, p5 and p6, and then the 5.7 and 5.8 pitch after the Acraphobes with a 60m rope(different pitch numbers in different guidebooks). The drag would be pretty severe on p.13 to p.14. :)
Also, there is a short-cut that we missed on the hike to the Acraphobes; look for the lovely totem.
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Exasperator (5.10c)
By: Sarah Kate When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gear: Worth saving a very large nut or #1 camalot for the last 10 feet. Exquisite, especially for tiny hands: perfect finger-locks and ring-locks the entire well!!!
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: Paul Rezucha When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is a long runout! Is that necessary? Is gear that hard to place? Cool looking route and cool shot! Just took a good look and see the piece about 10' below the climber. Still a long ways between gear...
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Location: International : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : The Chief : ... : Photo
By: Keen Butterworth When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is one sweet crack and photo.
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