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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : Snickerdoodle (5.9+)
By: Jeff Fiore When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Led it straight up the bold line/on the arete, and I think 5.9 is the right grade here. There was really only one move that gave me pause, but the bolts (beautiful hardware and installation btw) are close enough that it was never too scary. If anything the lichens were the one element that made me take extra care with my footwork - this route will get less dicey after more traffic.
Weather note: Climbed this route today on our way home from LA for Thanksgiving and it was COLD (windy and in t... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyz... (5.9)
By: Marc Schiffhauer When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've always liked this route. Great movement all the way up.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Potrero John : Should I Stay (5.10b/c)
By: Marc Schiffhauer When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I kind of like the flow to this one better than it's neighbor "Should I Go."
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : Straight, No Chaser (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I, for one, applaud the selfless bolting efforts of Matt and Romain. Thanks for your hard work and vision regarding this oft-overlooked area. I also hope that no one "dies on rappel".
Happy climbing...
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Tree Root (5.5) : Photo (Copy)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You actually can not see the bottom ten feet of the route. What appears to be the ground is the dirt alongside the road, at the feet of the photographer (fully 80 feet back from the wall).
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Tree Root (5.5) : Photo (Copy)
By: Jon Hanlon When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the belayer is standing at the car taking a picture of his friend rapelling Ending Crack. ;]
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Tree Root (5.5) : Photo (Copy)
By: Shawn Adams When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where's the belayer for the guy on the left? I thought he might be using a silent partner or something, but the rope goes all the way to the ground it looks like.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Saddle-Up Cupcake (5.9-) : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A-Frame roof and the top of Exodus is visible in the top right corner of this photo.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Saddle-Up Cupcake (5.9-)
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route still has some loose rock on the upper slab, especially near the third bolt. Should clean up nicely with some travel--the rock is similar to that on Ezra, Little Buckaroo, and Blush.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai
By: C Runyan When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: t-rev: Full topos, photos, and other details about Matilija, Cathedral Peak, and a number of other gems missing from the Falcon Guide can be found in the out-of-print 1994 guide "Climbing! Santa Barbara, Ventura, San Luis Obispo" by Steve Tucker and Kevin Steele.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Photo
By: Matthew Fienup When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The wall on the left-hand side of this photo is home to It is It & Aquaphobia
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Tree Root (5.5)
By: Joe Stern When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchor/rappel clarification. Just climbed the first pitch yesterday, which is approx. 110 feet long, up to the first big (first period?) tree. Immediately to the right of the tree there are 2 bolts, equipped to rappel. We rapped from these bolts all the way to the ground with a single 70m rope. Ours must have been a bit longer than Matthew's, as we had several feet piled on the ground on both ends. A fun pitch with emphasis on finger to tight hands gear.
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