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Latest Comments

 

Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Apostrophe (5.9)
By: Jesse Davidson When: Nov 26, 2009

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Comments: No #4 needed for the top... just place in the horizontals below the OW and you'll be fine. Once you actually get into the OW section its two moves then you grab something and you're done.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Kathy's Memorial (5.10a)
By: Jesse Davidson When: Nov 26, 2009

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Comments: this route could really use a bolt, imo


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Rectum Roof (5.10b/c)
By: mschlocker When: Nov 23, 2009

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Comments: A bolt was added at the start, so now there are 3 instead of the original 2. The original 1/4" first bolt was replaced probably around 1999 and moved ~6" left, making it much harder (more dangerous) to clip. In summer of 2009 somebody decided to add a bolt below the original first bolt.

I have led this route multiple times on the 2 bolts and can say that the perfect solution would be to move the first bolt back right to its original location and remove the new bolt below that. Although chopp... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : The Tower (5.7)
By: steve richert When: Oct 17, 2009

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Comments: This is a fun route but I would say for the new leader, the crux move is a bit committing since blowing this move could cause you to ledge out with one or both feet. My wife had an easier time though and she is short...I am 6'3 and it was a real stumper for me.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Apostrophe (5.9)
By: Kyle Wills When: Oct 1, 2009

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Comments: I have not yet found a climb of equal quality in Mission Gorge. The line is beautiful and outstanding amongst its shorter MG brethren. The top bulge offwidth section offering the perfect bit variety to an already fun climb, making this a major classic in the area. Definitely need a #4 for the top, although possiblities for other protection exist prior to committing to this section. Traversing from the pillar to the crack is definitely easier for the taller folks, but feet are solid and the... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Gallwas Crack (5.9)
By: mschlocker When: Sep 21, 2009

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Comments: Good training for The Vampire, Bat Crack +Direct Start. Just imagine it's right facing and a little steeper and more continous.



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