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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (03) Patchwork (5.10c)
By: LeeAB When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just talked to Randy tonight, he gives his blessing, sorry it took me so long to get a hold of him but I've been out of town/country for a couple of months.
Go ahead and add a bolt to make a lower anchor.
OH and I believe it is Isler, no E.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (07) Randy's Wall : (12) Kyle's Crack (5.7)
By: Bryan T When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Used a 4 and 5 nut in the left seam at the start set in as an oppositional. Rest of the climb I used C4 2-3 and all the Friends in between those sizes (Gold and purple) Some random nuts here and there and a #1 TCU at the top. Decent climb, good gear warmup. Tons of rodent shit.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (04) Showdown Wall : (02) SideKick (5.11a PG13)
By: djkyote When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: it is interesting that this one is 'mixed' but gunslinger is not - the first half of gunslinger could be done on gear. 'mixed' ethics only apply to certain grades i suppose.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (05) The Transition Zone : Wavy Gravy (5.8)
By: Bryan T When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd almost recommend this for the left 5.10 route. Has some great moves and goes about 10a. 2 Stars on the right. 3 stars on the left.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (15) Blonde Ambition (5.11c)
By: DisturbingThePeace When: Oct 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Come on now this is Palomas, part of the game is ignoring those tempting looking cracks so you can crux out on slippery footholds. I actually really liked this one, one of my favorite Palomas 11's. Remember the hard to see jug at the 4th bolt. It is only easy to see once you're past it.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (06) The Dihedral Wall : (06) Green Eggs and Ham (5.10c)
By: Bryan T When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, really makes you think about your moves, 4 of us sent it and I don't think anyone made any 2 of the same move. The route is also bolted extremely well; Good placements relative to the moves and the spacing is perfect; Wish more were bolted like this.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (03) Patchwork (5.10c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hello...Randy? Ground control to Randy Eisler... Got some nice new Fixe sport anchors, got a drill, got time on my hands. If you don't mind increased traffic on your route and a milling herd of pesky moderate climbers running around the base with shit-eating grins, send in your moral support for addition of a new, lower anchor. Promise we'll leave your upper anchor be.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (15) Blonde Ambition (5.11c)
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I'd consider this a good 11a. The crack is just too obvious and tempting to ignore, and I think it's the more natural line. Going left into the skittery feet and awkward handholds down low seems rather contrived to me. Mid-section climbs oh so nice.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the link, Dave. Those Fixe sport anchors are way quality and I've installed a few myself (when I could afford them.) I paint them with a primer spray paint to try to match the rock color and they don't hardly seem intrusive.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Found a good deal on Fixe sport anchors:
http://www.northernmountain.com/detail/540505
A bit klunky and obvious from below, but these puppies will make cleaning the anchor quick and safe. Any better ideas?
- Dave
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn, you weren't supposed to tell anybody about the ledge! I was going to write an article about the bolt placement for Climbing mag, complete with a teetering bat hook, rope-eating hanta-infested mice, and dive-bombing peregrines.
Seriously, I don't have any particular plan for bolt drilling yet, and I'm hoping to talk to Randy before going ahead. I think he authored a great route (which is, by the way, sustained and plenty long enough without the top bit), and I'll leave the original anchor a... more >>
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (08) The Far Side I : (07) Midnight Rider (5.11c)
By: Paul Davidson When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bernard loved thin cranks and once told me he found them easy.
I think a number of his ratings reflect that preference.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Paul Davidson When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the lead ?
Aren't you standing on a big ledge to drill the bolt?
While I'm all in favor of the "new" anchor, I doubt JB would feel all that honored by it.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Dave Wachter When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, I was planning to put the bolt in on lead, using a hand drill the old-fashioned way. A tribute to John Bachar. Power drills are for wussies. By the way, Mike, congrats on your Climbing mag photo. Hopefully I'll make it up there soon to sample some of your new routes.
- *Note - this comment was written in response to a post that once existed, but has been removed (mysterious Taos climber/recluse - you know the type). Anyhow, it's not as random as it seems.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was wondering if that Randy was the same Randy I know from Hardrock and Leadville. Cool. I might have contact info for him or at least know how to get it. I'll try for it...
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (06) The Dihedral Wall : (07) Quickdraw McGraw (5.11b/c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are 2 "last bolts", one on each side of the arete. Use the right one and go to the anchor to the right if you're cleaning the route. Use the left one and go left to the anchor for Baba Louie if you're having a 2nd person follow through the draws.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (08) The Far Side I : (07) Midnight Rider (5.11c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with DisturbingthePeace... the top crux felt difficult for the grade to me (w/out the crack). Though it seemed even harder to me when I first tried it 5 years ago compared to today, so I don't think anything was recently broken.
The good side of the 'crack-is-off eliminate' contrivance is this makes it a good climb to push your limit on, since you can use the crack if you get shut down.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (09) The Far Side II : (03) Patchwork (5.10c)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another vote for the boulder problem at the last bolt being kinda pointless.. (or maybe I was missing something). I think this climb is excellent otherwise, one of the best 10s at Palomas. I'd be happy to clip a new, lower anchor that shortens the climb by 10', and I'm glad to see the effort made to contact the FA first. Hopefully this will prevent the confusion/hard feelings that have happened -at Cochiti-, -at Diablo-, -at White Rock- and [[-at Las Conc... more >>
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