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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : (10) Flesh-Eating Gnats (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt spacing between bolts 1 and 2 on this line is pretty spacious and could possibly result in a not-so-fun fall. That said, I've never seen anyone fall in that area. We did discover a .3 camalot fits pretty decently in a horizontal between B1 and B2 but didn't fully load test it. Maybe just enough psychological pro to help the leader move up.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Sununu Place : Bush Whacker (5.9)
By: Wa3lt When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Luke Laeser and I replaced the hangers on these routes many years ago with super-ghetto angle iron ones we had sitting around. I believe Luke made them in shop class.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (29) Thorazine Dream (5.11d)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome. That is exactly what I was hoping to hear. To clarify my previous post, I do not condone chopping bolts. I think it is equally destructive (as far as the rock is concerned) to remove a bolt as it is to place one. I was merely pointing out that Roger had a valid point in saying that the FA should have been contacted prior to the retrobolt.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (29) Thorazine Dream (5.11d)
By: George Perkins When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: For this specific climb, please do not remove the controversial bolt.
The first ascentionist (Tom MacFarlane) has provided his guidance. While he was not communicated with prior to the retro-bolting it is Tom's preference that no further destruction of the rock occur by removal of the additional bolt.
Feel free to skip the 3rd bolt, and/or place protection in the horizontal crack, if you want to climb Thorazine as it was originally established.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Sununu Place : Bush Whacker (5.9)
By: cammo When: Oct 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thinking? Sorry Scott, I don't do thinking.....
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (29) Thorazine Dream (5.11d)
By: Daniel Trugman When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While I agree with you J. Albers that Thorazine is a better route with the bolt in place, I think Roger brings up a valid point about contacting the FAs before the modifying their routes. I think it is disrespectful to retrobolt a route that has a recorded FA party (Tom and Brian) without first soliciting their permission. Please respect the vision of the FAs by not tampering with their hard work behind their backs.
To be clear - this is not a personally directed toward J. Albers. I'm sure you... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (07) No Exit (5.12a)
By: Wa3lt When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've always thought this was quite hard for the grade. The finish (IMO) is a solid V5 boulder problem, though you get a great rest before doing it.
I've seen people pre-clip the anchors with 4+' long "draws" to avoid the last cruxy bits.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (16) Polly's Crack (5.8+)
By: Wa3lt When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best 5.8 in White Rock, IMO.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (17) Thief in Time (5.12d)
By: Wa3lt When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I could never for the life of me figure out where this route went. It's pretty hard, depending on where you go, but only for a move or two, and there's no well-defined line. Basically, a mediocre boulder problem separated by choss below and easy climbing above.
This is another early 90s route bolted by folks who *really* wanted to climb 5.13 but couldn't find anything hard enough in WR. They ended up bolting anything with hard moves they could find, quality be damned. I don't think I've every s... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall : (03.1) As You Wish (5.10a)
By: Devin Shunk When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. I am not sure about the 10 rating. If you follow the bolt line, this is a straightforward climb. It is a stretch to even call it a 9 in my mind. As the description states, if you climb over to the right of the bolts (almost out of arms reach of them), the climbing is much harder.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : (04.5) Unknown Bolted Face (5.11c)
By: Scott Beguin When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA was Mike Schillachi late 80's.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : (26) Unknown (5.8+)
By: Scott Beguin When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A comfortable rack for this would be (2)#4 Camalots, (2)#5 Camalots, an a #6 Camalot for the top out moves. This climb is a little dirty but actually pretty fun and worth at least doing once. The only turnoff is the Sardonic Death boulder that looms directly above this climb.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs : Photo
By: Joshua WIlliams When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW! I just pulled-up MP and hadn't even logged in yet and there is a picture from White Rock from the 70s. Crazy! I guess it would make more sense if I were to say I that I just started climbing there last summer and spend my summers in Los Alamos. And here is a picture of some people climbing the same stuff 15 years before I was born.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Old New Place : (18) 4-Star Arete (5.11)
By: George Perkins When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good alternate finish to the upper section is the arete to the right of the cracks for Unknown #17 which keeps it more sustained in difficulty.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : (23) Fat Boys Don't Fly (5.12)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool route. Continuous overhanging climbing on a mix of pockets, only a few of which are of the "thank-god" variety. The crux section near the top felt pretty damn tough, although only for a couple moves, where you reach a pretty good ledge. The dyno that I think Samet is referring to would be sick to stick (and a big one!), but makes no sense as there's a decent side-pull up left, which is certainly on-route. Having very little experience with White Rock 12s, I can't say what I think the grade ... more >>
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