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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Godzilla Face : Montezuma's Revenge (5.10b R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Nov 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe the infamous "toads lip mantle" is actually the one at the start of P2 of Godzilla's Return.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Smooth Sole Wall : Smooth Sole Wall - Right Si... : Howard's Fifty Footer (5.10b R)
By: Lucas Dunn When: Nov 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: i'm pretty sure its called "Howards 50 Footer" Because howard judson was climbing mickey mantle and a hold broke so he took a 50 footer and they named that climb to immortalize his fall
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Godzilla Face : Montezuma's Revenge (5.10b R)
By: Chris Owen When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route a long time ago upon spying it from the descent. Thought it was Small Affair Direct! Realized it wasn't the previously mentioned climb when doing the "Toad's Lip Mantle" at the start of P2. I kept thinking "I must be screwing this up it doesn't feel like 5.8". Did the arete variation (5.10b R/X in the guidebook) Fred managed to find a spike to sling.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : The Buccaneer (5.10b)
By: scottydo When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this climb and it definitely felt like a 5.10. Although the first part is supposed to be 5.8 it felt a little harder. (it does flare a little bit) I took the upper chimney to the left which I think was off route, but was gnarly and fun. (fun cause i didn't fall) The hardest move on the whole thing was at the bolt. Fun times.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Right of the Escalator : Hot Buttered Rump (5.9)
By: Tyler Logan When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Protecting this thing was the crux for me. It's easy to lose body tension while fumbling for gear. I found a #3 Camalot to be a crucial piece early in the chimney (when standing on the detached flake). It was a flared, ugly-looking placement--the kind where anything other than a Camalot would probably walk out--but it was better than anything else I could figure out. Further up, I saw some possible small nut placements but decided that it was more efficient to wait for the constrictions wh... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Etude (5.11a)
By: Tyler Logan When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both pitches can be combined into one with a 60m rope. The second pitch has an exciting move or two on so-so rock leading to secure jams, and then it joins the last ten feet of Flower of High Rank.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Paisano Pinnacle : Paisano Overhang (5.12c R)
By: Bob Gaines When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went up there with John Long back in the 80's. Climbed Paisano Jam Crack and set up a top rope. John tied in and jammed right out to the lip... and came off. When he fell, the rope traveled through the crack, and he hit the slab so hard I thought he broke both legs, but he was fine. He got right back up there and did it second try, no problem, with no tape on his hands!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Shine On (5.11d R)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The FA party found this specific type of climbing difficult to rate. Consensus should be able to sort it out into something accurate, + or -. Please comment on the rating if you do it.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Obscured by Clouds (5.10d R)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: aaack. The "shared" bolt on superfluous should be ignored if doing the route in the same style as the FA party did. However, it does make it a little more "sporty" getting to the second overlap. Clip it or skip it, your call. Keep in mind though that it wasn't/isn't really part of Obscured.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Superfluous Bolt (5.10a R)
By: Darrell Hensel When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt mentioned that is out to the right is on Shine On, the straight up continuation of Obscured By Clouds. When the previous comments were made Shine On was still unfinished, which is no longer true.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Insomnia (5.11b) : Photo
By: Dynomight510 When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Makin it look easy. Great job.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Flower of High Rank (5.9)
By: Dynomight510 When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to disagree with the PG-13 rating. This is a well protectable climb. I've done it many times and the pro opportunities are adequate or better. The climb is sustained in some sections but there are rests where you need them.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Flower of High Rank (5.9) : Photo
By: Dynomight510 When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Todd. using a rope on this for a change? Great job.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : The Weeping Wall : Sampson (5.9)
By: Dynomight510 When: Sep 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. It was like walking on the moon-lots of friction climbing. most Pro was thin or not confidence inspiring. The pro I used at the mantle finish was solid, tricky but at my feet. There was an alternate placement higher up but my buddy popped it when he took a short flyer. Be solid in the grade before attempting this one.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Northeast Wall Routes : Flower of High Rank (5.9) : Photo
By: Dynomight510 When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice pic of Flower. Great classic.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Rebolting Face : Season's End (5.11c) : Photo
By: Bruce Diffenbaugh When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Darrell knows more about this bit of stone than you or I, Truly. The Photo is not mine. But I will say this, I did the route when you were just a kid! More than once.
Dogtown..
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