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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: Jason Wells When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yo admins, why were my comments about this climb removed?! The Cascade Creek discussion prompted me to look back at some of the prior comments I made after doing most of the Tonnere Tower climbs, but they are all gone! I simply don't understand, are only glowing reviews of this climb acceptable?
FWIW, I climbed this specific route and found that the overwhelming number of bolts, especially those on the third pitch next to the crack in the corner, to greatly detract from the climb and the over... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : The Garden : Smooth Operator (5.11+)
By: Tony B When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's really odd. I'm used to downgrading their routes a few letter grades, but I found this one particularly perplexing and insecure. I hung on it. So, both in my wildest dreams, and in reality, I nodded to the 11+ grade on it.
For what it's worth, I onsighted Le Boomerang and The Contest without much trouble, and recently onsighted or redpointed (without working them) up to 5.12 on other climbs with established consensus grades, but this one gave me a fit, and my partner had trouble, too.... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : The Garden : Smooth Operator (5.11+)
By: Mark Ferguson When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob/Ron, The 11+ rating on this must be a mistake. Not in anyone's wildest dreams would this route be 11+. I think 11- is a stretch even by Boulder Canyon standards. It is a decent route, but 10+ is a more honest rating. Consider other 11+'s in the Boulder area: Englishman's Home, La Boomerang, The Contest (I could list many others). Compared to these routes, this one is a walk in the park.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You think I'm fucking around here? Mark it zero!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Generous Donation (5.11b/c)
By: John Rudolph When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had a lot of fun on this route last week. Although the 5.11 rating is too high I think. I am just under 6 feet and had no problems reaching the good holds. Superb feet everywhere. Fun climb, 5.10+.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Mike Morley When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's a league game, Smokey.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Monomaniac When: Sep 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: '..Ya but I wasn't over. Mark it an 8.'
'Smokey, you're entering a World of PAIN.'
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: Charles Vernon When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Has the whole world gone crazy?? AM I THE ONLY ONE AROUND HERE WHO GIVES A SHIT ABOUT THE RULES?!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: E Johnson: Birds get to fly because they have wings, fish get to live underwater because they have gills, and trad climbers get to climb cracks because they use equipment available since the late '70s that protect cracks without leaving a mark. If you want to climb cracks, learn to place gear in them. No one is making you climb cracks, go nuts on bolted slabs! Just skip the bolts, I mean cracks!
Just because the rock can be bolted doesn't mean it should be. Placing a nut in a crack and remov... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Buried Treasure was intentionally created as a sport route, to provide an easy multi-pitch clip-up for newer climbers (this is how we rationalize bolting cracks). In almost all places, it can also be protected with trad gear. If you prefer to place gear, bring your trad rack (nuts and cams up to 1") and see how many bolts you can skip. If you prefer to clip bolts, bring your quickdraws, no nuts needed.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Stayin' Alive (5.10a)
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: P2: Great pitch, too bad there's lots of bolts in the way. Easily lead with natural, removable gear (except the contrived arete ending).
Bolted finger cracks, has everyone else gone crazy? How has this not been chopped?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower
By: tooTALLtim When: Sep 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This place really puts the "bolt" in "Bolter Canyon". Pretty sad stuff when bolts are 6" from perfect cracks. But I didn't garden and develop the place, so I guess you get to bolt the hell out it if you get there first, right?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : Buried Treasure (5.9)
By: Jeff Welch When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Traddies have been driving past this crag and route for at least 50 years to get to Castle Rock, yet never bothered to do it. It was hardly cutting edge difficulty, even 50 years ago, so you can't use "too hard" as an excuse.
If it hadn't been bolted, it would probably remain undone, or at best, obscure. As it is, it's a fun, easy, well-protected multipitch climb that seems to get regular traffic. I doubt that would be the case if the bolts were removed.
I bet not a single person would have... more >>
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