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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The grades here seem very soft compared to the rest of the Canyon. Presumably bolted for the convenience of visiting climbers who can't climb cracks.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Dirty Dave's Dumpster Dive (5.10a)
By: S. F. Pitman When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is the most logically bolted route on the crag, which is sort of unfortunate since almost the entire thing could be protected (and the crux would be pretty ballsy if it was runout instead of bolted halfway through).
The small hands-and-fingers crack at the beginning makes this extra-cool, though the giant ledge halfway through is a little bit anticlimactic.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Wise Crack (5.8)
By: S. F. Pitman When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought that it was easier to use gear than the bolts, which are somewhat awkwardly placed on the face to the right of the route. I noticed the tendency for the rope to get caught in that little corner and just placed a redirect to keep it a couple of inches out.
Kind of a dull and unrewarding crack, but sufficed as a warmup for the west face. There was a huge group on the south face, so we just worked our way left to right.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Owl Prow : Owl On The Prowl (5.11b/c)
By: cLohse When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found clipping the anchors on this to be the crux. It's got scattered jugs above the second bolt, but it's pumpy up to there and beyond. Pretty great route, altogether. Fun technical stuff mixed with pure burl. Looking at the pictures of folks on the crux on this climb, it clearly goes in many different ways, making it reasonable for those of all heights.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : The Other One (5.11a)
By: tsuji When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My honest opinion was the route was 10 with a single 11a move pulling the last bulge. Fun stuff.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Infa-Red Riding Hood (5.10a)
By: keith story When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why the bag of sand?
True, crack and face differ, but the crux was definitely 5.10a for a couple moves. I suppose if you are wearing tape on your hand it would be easier.... I didn't tape up and ended up with less skin and blood than when I started.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : The Other One (5.11a)
By: rob bauer When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, what IS that other route rated? Harder than I usually try, but it seemed so inviting after The Other One. I got the last clip and went nowhere. I tried going straight up and failed miserably. (My partner deviously stepped up on the arete and crawled onto the right face and finished.) Straight up "power crimping," wide feet on the overhanging wall and using the high sloper on the face got me nowhere. (Neither did the sketchy slapping along the arete.) It would be nice to know what my l... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Mother Goose (5.10d)
By: Crag Dweller When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route. I was surprised by the strenuous work required to pull over the two roofs.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Chicken Delight (5.10c)
By: Crag Dweller When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this route is more fun if you stay to the right of the bolt line.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Double Down (5.10a)
By: Bracken When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: By being bolted, you get to do one interesting face move at the start (I'm short, so getting to the good hands was a bit tenuous). After that, the route is uninteresting.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park
By: keith story When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That makes a lot more sense than my preposterous hypothesis.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park
By: Greg Hand When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is not a tyrolean.
Probably more just something to clip into or as a handhold during higher water wading.
At the current water level, it has no purpose.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park
By: keith story When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am confused by the "tyrolean traverse" at the Sport Park. Why is there a TT 3 feet over a foot deep river? It seems that if the river peaked, you'd be swimming underneath the current instead of majestically ninja-ing across whilst catching fish from above.
I'm guessing it is a gear shuttle? Maybe? I guess it could be tough to carry gear across the river when it is high....
Maybe it's supposed to be a rope slackline? That would be entertaining.
I probably have it wrong all together... I'm ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : The Big Dipper (5.11a)
By: keith story When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite climbs in the Sport Park. I typically stay in the 5.9-5.10 realm, but my brother took me up on this one and I loved it more than some 4-star climbs. A great route for anyone breaking into the 5.11s.
It's pretty pumpy and juggy at first, but once you top the roof there are a few trickier moves to enjoy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Rubber Chicken (5.10d)
By: keith story When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely worth the climb. WAY better than chicken delight. I found it easier in the sense that the moves were more fluid, harder in the sense that it is more technical. More tricky short moves = more fun in my opinion.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Mommy Blocker (5.10a/b)
By: keith story When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It felt like a 5.10a to me, but this was right after working a few other problems on the wall, so it was probably fatigue kicking in. Fun route to climb though!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Chicken Delight (5.10c)
By: keith story When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did not enjoy this route, and agree with the last post. The moves felt redundant and pumpy. Delight wasn't terrible, but did not live up to its name. Worth it for a workout.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Chicken Hawk (5.9)
By: keith story When: Sep 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this route as a good warm up for the chicken wall. It has also been useful as a spot to teach others some leading skills. It seems more like a 5.8 than a 5.9, but it really depends on your route. Don't drift too far from the bolt line!
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