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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : High H20 (5.10a/b)
By: Stewart M. Green When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll try to get out in the next week or two and pull those bolts and replace them with big glue-in bolts. Eventually all the anchors on the east side of the canyon will have to be replaced with glue-ins. Part of the problem is that there are some folks that insist on top-roping the routes with their rope through the anchors rather than through quickdraws. The action of the rope and the weight load weakens the placement over time, loosening the bolts.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : High H20 (5.10a/b)
By: PRRose When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both of the anchor bolts could be wiggled in their holes.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : Jumping the Gun (5.9+)
By: Paul K When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guidebook says 5.9-. Like many other routes in the area, it's covered with black streaks from people's climbing shoes smearing off. At last bolt, I decided to be saucy and move left vice right. Fun moves on cool holds, harder than 5.9-. Ended up spraining my bloody ankle when I popped off the thing.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Ripple Wall : Snubnose (5.9-)
By: Paul K When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Guidebook says 5.8+ This was probably true once but the slab is seriously worn. The wall is half red from the rock, and half black from where people's shoes have smeared off.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Whale's Tail : Jason's Argonaut (5.10a)
By: Ben Burnett When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would say it is height dependant, if you can do the big reach above the crux bolt then it is easier than the 9, if not then the lower step across falls in the 10 range. Good, clean rock and fun moves.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Whale's Tail : Pockets a' Plenty (5.9)
By: Ben Burnett When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Of 2 days at rrcos this was probably our least favorite climb. It seemed contrived with some odd bolt placements. It has some bad rock too - I broke the hold that looked best to me above the sand ledge. The day we did it, it had tons of sand, leaf pieces and pine needles on it. On the plus side you can often climb left or right of the bolts and vary the route. Look out for poison ivy growing *on the rock* next to the starting corner and at the base.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Whale's Tail : The Rose (5.7)
By: Ben Burnett When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Better and cleaner than it looks - not really a crack though.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Sayers' Wall : The Mantle of the Leprechau... (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Curt True When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Going direct through the last bolt makes the route a ton more fun. I'd call the move an 11- at least. Also, not PG-13. Just have your belayer spot you on the start.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Red Rock Canyon Open Space : Red Rock Redpoint Competiti...
By: Alex Burton When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you haven't climbed in Red Rock Canyon yet, this is a great way to get familiar with area and meet local climbers. Should be a great day for it!
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