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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Photo
By: JasonT When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the info. Can't wait for the guide though, although MP helps a lot it still doesn't compare to having a guidebook at your disposal. I know a lot of climbers who will also be glad to get their hands on it. Thanks again.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Mighty Young Joe aka Captai... (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very like Yorkshire gritstone! VS 5a.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Arch Rock Route (5.8)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As usual I'm struggling to understand US grades. Start of this climb was worth 5.9+ but after that the climb is at most 5.7, though enjoyable - "a good mountaineering route". UK grade would be Hard Severe with an optional 5b start.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Village Idiot (5.9)
By: Rob Davies UK When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seemed hard for the grade but I may have missed the easiest line. Hardest moves were near to bolts but I had to resort to Mr. Micawber's POV that "something will turn up" in between. Tried to avoid the strong gravitational pull rightwards where the climbing looks easier....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Photo
By: Ben Schmitt When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha ha, alright, it's updated. Wouldn't it have been better if I told you that you had to wait for the names and ratings to be posted until my book came out next spring??? I'm actually most of the way through a book for Elevenmile, so I'll try to get that going here soon....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Photo
By: JasonT When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That would kick ass if you did. Probably will be a while before we see a new guidebook for this area, so anything helps.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Spray Wall : Photo
By: Ben Schmitt When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is pretty outdated....I'll try to get a better one up here in the near future....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : The Overleaf (5.8)
By: Rich F. When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Led with Sarah today. Challenging crux for me, but protected it with a #2 cam in the crack. Rested (hung) on the rope while I figured out the moves through the roof. Once I figured out the moves, it wasn't too bad for me. Sarah climbed it in tennis shoes :-]
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Moby Grape (5.7)
By: Barbara Stevens When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: September 27, 2009
Yesterday at Moby Grape the very loose boulders (2) in the middle of the route were pulled off...THANKS to Rich! Much safer....
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock
By: Ben Schmitt When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anybody know what the name of the offwidth roof crack is that is between Captain Fist and the Meanie Cracks. It starts in the back of the cave behind Captain Fist, and does full on offwidth climbing to finish at Captain Fist's anchors?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : The Icebox : The Microfridge (5.12-)
By: Ben Schmitt When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris! Thanks for posting your new addition! I'm psyched to see your interested in putting new stuff in Elevenmile! I'm even more psyched your willing to post the names and grades of your routes!!!!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Elevenmile Dome : Moby Grape (5.7)
By: Barbara Stevens When: Sep 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: September 13, 2009
Led Moby Grape today...have done this route quite a few times, however, in the middle of the route there is a large boulder in the crack that is very loose...BE VERY CAREFUL...it really needs to be pulled off for safety reasons...we would have today but too many people around.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Curtlovesugly (5.11a/b)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps I missed something, but pulling past the second bolt is a long tenuous reach that seamed much harder than anything on Bye, Bye Butterfly.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Bye, Bye Butterfly (5.11c)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route that may be easier if you are taller.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : Don't Go (5.9+)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One hard pull at the bolt establishes you in the crack/ corner. Fun and easy climbing above with good gear.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Pine Cone Dome : She's a Moaner (5.9+)
By: Chad Stebbins When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good warm up to the more difficult Ben Dover. Some thoughtful moves above the bolts.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Waiting for Staircase 1-3 (5.8-)
By: Rich F. When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed all three routes today with my wife. All of the bolts and all three anchors/chains look good. Appears to be a new set of anchors/chains at the top of Kansas Honey (1st pitch) -- thanks to whoever put them up! I thought the crux on all three routes was either getting to the 1st bolt, or the 2nd bolt. Once past those bolts, the rest of the climbing is pretty straightforward (5.7ish). A little run out at the very top of Kansas Honey and the middle route but the climbing is straightforw... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Arch Rock Route (5.8)
By: Stephen Wilson When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! I would agree that the direct start is a 5.9-5.9+, and the rest is 5.8. It is easily protectable for most of it but with run-outs at the top. I used C4 cams from 0.4-2, but in places to 4, and can be done with a rack of nuts and hexes with only a few mid-sized cams.
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