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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Primer (5.9)
By: caughtinside When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's the spirit!
Fight grade creep!
5.8+.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Bearclaw (5.10c PG13)
By: Paul Rezucha When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very nice slab climb! Very thin through the first 4 bolts with crux is at climbing past 4th bolt. Dicey stance to clip crux bolt. I grabbed the sling to clip the rope as I thought I was about to slip off. Fell at crux and just kept same stance with all 4 points touching and slid in that same position till rope caught my fall. Fun fall! The route does ease after 4th bolt but still fun upper steep wall for a few moves. I climbed the face as much as possible above but was able to get much de... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Peter Principle (5.10d)
By: Shannon Moore When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, what is up with the first couple comments slagging on people from the bay - some seriously unnecessary hostility there. The use of the word "fags" is especially inappropriate, not cool.
On a grade note, I'm one of the those gym climbing a-holes from the bay, and I thought this route was definitely easier than Aerial (haven't done Karl's Gym yet, so can't compare), which to me seems in the ballpark of .11-. I'm sure all these routes on Snowshed feel easy if you live in Truckee/Tahoe and wi... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Rated X (5.7)
By: bergbryce When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: To protect the flake, it would be nice to have a couple #4s and maybe even a 5 if you've got it. I had a 3 and a 4 which worked but two 4s would have been better.
There is also a bolt near the top of the flake below the lieback exit sequence. This could be protected by a #5 so I was a little surprised to see this bolt there, but I definitely clipped it!
There is a three bolt belay station above the flake that does not lend itself to belaying the second pitch very well. It's better... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Desire (5.9)
By: bergbryce When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't cheat on the start! A high step w/ the left foot off a good right foot on the corner is all you need.
You can get gear between the 2nd and 3rd bolt but the ground above the crack to the 3rd bolt is easy.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Schoolhouse Rock : Mary's Crack (5.8)
By: Paul Rezucha When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We weren't sure where to go on the second pitch so we tried the left crack of the two cracks in the middle of the steep headwall about 40' left of the correct corner for Mary's second pitch. It was quite hard but fun. Awkward start to get into crack system, then good buckets to place gear and then a couple hard finger/hand jams through the steep short crack above. Anyone know what this is? I would say hard 9 - 10b. I'm not good at judging this type of climbing as I am just no good at it...
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass
By: Paul Rezucha When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could anyone tell me if there is any good place to camp this time of year around Donner? Most campgrounds are open May through October. Forest Land is ok to "dispense" camp but where/how does one find a good area that's not private and that is accessible. You do need a fire permit (free) from the park service/visitor center if you plan to cook or have a fire. Thanks!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Black Wall : Primer (5.9)
By: Aerili When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice crack! And a bit sustained--would be great to take laps on for endurance (unfortunately you are mostly just training your right side).
Ya know, the finishing moves are kinda reachy and harder if you're...er, uh....and I mean, the section right before it is super tight fingers and definitely harder for those with, um.....wait, what was I saying??
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Greener Pastures (5.9)
By: Wes Pracht When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short and fun, no bolts along route as shown in guide. There is a 2 bolt anchor with chains. We did the route on TR by rappelling down from anchors on top of Light Headed (Left) and setting the TR on the Greener Pastures anchors, took some time, but well worth it.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : White Lines Boulder : White Lines (V8) : Photo
By: susan peplow When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How come something so hard is made to look so easy? Great job & shot guys!
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Unknown (5.10b PG13)
By: Wes Pracht When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "old" bolts on this climb are sketchy, they spin and the rock around the bolts have been glued.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : The Slide (5.9 R)
By: Wes Pracht When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard climb for me. Very small foot holds and small sloping handholds. We did it on TR, which can be set up with some slings, and 3rd/4th class to the anchors from the right. There are NO rap chains or chains on these anchors
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : The Slash (5.8)
By: Wes Pracht When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super easy on the first 1/3, gets a bit harder in the middle. Bolts on top of this climb are SKETCHY and need to be replaced. Although there are 2 bolts on the top of "the slide" they do not have chains or rings.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Green Phantom Rock : Yellow Jacket (5.10+)
By: Wes Pracht When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this route and thought it was about 5.8 when you climb more toward the corner.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Ariel (5.10d)
By: Joe Huggins When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember doing Ariel in '84, scared shitless. Years later I lived in Zephyr Cove and climbed it again with my wife, noticing that it had about twice as many bolts...much more fun that way.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Half Hit (5.9+ R)
By: Aerili When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely not an R.
This crack feels really polished for some reason and, in the sun on a moderately warm day, I almost thought I was going to grease off on the upper half (right before it eases off). I couldn't tell which was going to go first: my jam greasing out of the crack or my foot greasing off the tiny nub I was standing on. (Luckily, neither happened.) Summon your sticky willpower accordingly.
(Also, try wearing shoes that aren't too big for you and have some chalk in your chalk... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab : Unknown (5.10b PG13)
By: Aerili When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul, I lead this route in shade and I also rated it somewhere between 10b-10c (and I, uh, like slab). I agree the start is heads up! The cruxiest part for me was the move directly after leaving your first clipping stance...seemed really difficult in terms of balance and ultra-committing with the feet on marginal smears.
Short people may have a harder time clipping the first bolt from the most optimal stance: my partner was 5'1" and there is no way she could have clipped from where I stood ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Grouse Slab
By: Aerili When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The anchors that are just right of The Slash and Unknown (the 5.10 bolted face) are in VERY bad condition! They are handmade, old, rusty and somewhat spinner; additionally, someone has slathered glue all around the base of each but it is totally less than inspiring.
There are other, newer bolts farther right of these, but they do not have rap hangers installed on them.
It is possible to walk off much farther to the right of this wall (i.e. kinda 'next wall over'-ish), and I sugges... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Nova Express (5.9) : Photo
By: Aerili When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh, Newton, you such a funny, funny guy....
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Donner Pass : Snowshed Wall : Nova Express (5.9) : Photo
By: Newtoniii When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: awesome photo. didn't you think this route felt more like a 5.8?
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