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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Lost Creek Canyon : Bighorn Buttress (5.10+ R)
By: Jeffrey Gagliano When: Nov 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this climb on the 11/22/09. The traverse on P2 is hard. Definantly 11a IMHO. The 4th pitch is a real gem, an exciting finish to what was already an exciting climb. This route is not for the faint of heart.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Aikido Gun Boy (5.11c PG13)
By: Manjushri When: Nov 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not one to give much detailed info, but on this route the pieces pre-second bolt (there's a low bolt as well) are crucial to avoid proving your mortality in the event of a fall:
You can get an HB brassie in there with the 000, which, as Darren suggests with the bd tcu, you will also not want to test.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Willow Springs South : Little Black Book (5.4)
By: cassondra When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We bouldered past the start and belayed from the bottom of the huge crack to reduce rope drag.On a very windy day, this made a nice cozy belay spot. At the top, this route shares the same belay with Senior Moment. There is one move near the top that seems a bit harder than 5.4, if for only that you get the feeling that if you don't do it right, you are SO going to get hurt. At this time, there are webbing and rings at the top on a stout bush. If one has only a single rope, these routes can all b... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Lost Creek Canyon : Bighorn Buttress (5.10+ R)
By: John Wilder When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty awesome route- well worth the effort, and although I'm not sure I'd call it an .11a. the traverse up and right is the only obvious way to go, imho- the lower traverse looked insane. the traverse up and right also takes you directly to the third bolt, where the other way wouldnt.
otherwise, the route was pretty awesome. i felt that the grade was fairly sustained the entire time at the .10/.10+ range with some easier sections here and there. given the pro (or lack thereof), though, i'd say... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Outhouse Wall : Spiderline (5.7)
By: cassondra When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Look out for the pine pitch at the top of the route under the belay tree. Wouldn't want to get that on your rope.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : The Case Face : Hard Case (5.9)
By: Brandontru When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Its a good route after soilent green jeans, just walk on over to it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mossy Ledges Area : Soylent Green Jeans (5.9+)
By: Dan Meyers When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route!! The corner is super thin for us fat-fingered folk. At the pine tree, it looked tempting to go out right and climb the crack to the roof, but I foolishly went up the corner.... Happy to send again. A double set of cams from .4" to 1.5" in addition to a standard rack should do for the route. The belay takes big pieces - about 3.5" and larger. We 3rd classed (downclimbed) off.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.11-)
By: Karsten When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was one of my first climbs at Red Rocks. Harrison the younger led it very confidently and so I thought if a teenage girl can do it. . . I guess boldness runs in genes.
Shortly after this I did black magic panties (even more sketchified) and gained a new appreciation for vegas climbers.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.11-)
By: John Wilder When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: yeah, well, Mr. Snipes threw down yesterday for the send- nice one Darren! I managed to follow it without falling, but I'm not sure I have the cajones to lead it.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.11-)
By: Karsten When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stopping at the "first pitch" is so not LVABS!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F (5.11-)
By: Darren Snipes When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: From what I understand, this route doesn't really have a first pitch. You can stop at the anchors that are at the 30' mark, but to claim this one or Ragged Edges, you've got to top out.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Hidden Falls Wall : 5.8 sport route (5.7+)
By: Moonfri When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So this gets a bomb becuase they didn't have permits to put the route up or becuase it's really just that bad?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Aikido Gun Boy (5.11c PG13)
By: Darren Snipes When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: In my opinion, I like the old school 11+ rating. However, it is noticeably harder than Spring Break, in Icebox. Chad is right getting to the first of the high bolts on this route is heady, and I protected it with a 000 BD C3, which looks really good, but on sandstone, I wouldn't want to find out the hard way if it worked or not.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Aikido Gun Boy (5.11c PG13)
By: chad umbel When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think a good rule of thumb for this site should be only post a route if you've actually climbed it. From the ground up. At least on dangerous routes. This way when someone reads about it on this site and decides that he or she would like to climb it, they have substantial and honest route information and don't get themselves hurt. Aikido Gun boy is more like solid 12a old school power face climbing. And that's if it even goes the same way it did when these hardmen put it up. Personally I think... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Sumo Greatness Slab : Sumo Greatness (5.9+ R)
By: Dan Meyers When: Sep 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has two bolts for pro, not three. My climbing partner did take a fall above the second bolt (but, to her defense, she hadn't climbed for about six months previous) and did break her nose. There used to be a fixed knife blade before the first bolt placed by the FA, but that's been removed. You might be able to place a small RP in that same placement. If you think you've finished the route once you've reached the two bolt anchor, keep in mind that it didn't exist for many years after th... more >>
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