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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Lady Wilson's Cleavage (5.9)
By: smassey When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Highly Entertaining. Having not read Larry's book until after doing this, I too took the right-hand slab at the tree chimney. Seemed fine. 1 marginal stopper for pro. Also, was too tired to look too far for "easy scrambling", so just did the last short chimney to the top. By that time in the day, it felt 5.5ish. Descended First Creek, which is easy but long. Classic route. I thought the flora kind of added to the adventure aspect. Nothing like a good Cascades Belay to vary the muscle gr... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10+)
By: Reed Fee When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My friend Matt and I climbed this route on the 24th of Oct. We got to the base about 45 minutes before dawn. We were a little anxious that a party of three we talked to the day before were going to get ahead of us. Needless to say we were the first of 7 people on the route that day. We blasted up to the top of Inti Watana linking all but three pitches. Reach up grab incredibly good edge or knob. Repeat! The last pitch has one gear placement before the last bolt. Wish I would have known that! We... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Dogma (5.11c)
By: ekamm When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: did Pink Tornado to Dogma last weekend--stellar routes. Would recommend descending by 1st Creek Canyon rather than rapping the route/descending back down via Willy's Coulair, which took us about 4 hrs. It's much faster descending via 1st Creek Canyon.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Resolution Arete (5.10 A1)
By: a wade When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: great route. definately makes for a looong day though. If descending the oak creek side, don't get lazy like we did and with darkness fast approaching get suckered into an inviting looking gully to early. It quickly turned into a ridiculously narrow and steep water chute requiring several rappells and some canyoneering. It dropped us off in one of the side canyons that runs into oak creek proper somewhere in between the slabs below levitation and black orpheus. I think if your descending either ... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson
By: Rich Draves When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed Lady Wilson's Cleavage yesterday - I'm sorry that we didn't check here first to see the descent discussion. Amazingly, the day before we ran into the Urioste's at the First Creek pullout and got some descent beta from them. They recommended the Oak Creek Canyon descent and said it was faster but harder to find than the First Creek Canyon descent. They said to go back almost to the limestone to a gully marked with a stand of large ponderosa pines, passing by earlier tempting gullies. W... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Lady Wilson's Cleavage (5.9)
By: Rich Draves When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The approach took us 3.5 hours, following Handren's description which was accurate.
The pitch ratings were a bit mysterious - to me the pitches mostly all felt like "old school 5.9", hard to say why Handren calls some of them 5.8. Lots of chimney technique, very little pure offwidth. For pitch 7, we climbed the face to the right of the short steep chimney (5.9) because the top was clogged with a tree. Pitch 8 might be fourth class if you go through the tree, but we face-climbed to the right of ... more >>
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