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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Foolproof Tower : High Strung (5.9)
By: Will S When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: We climbed a variation to the start of this route on 11/27. If you find yourself without small enough cams on the rack to pro the normal start (~ blue tcu), this works as a protecable alternative and is roughly the same difficulty.
From the regular start, move right/down into the chimney and then up to an obvious belay perch at the base of a left leaning fist crack flake with a splitter finger crack on the main face just to the left. Up these cracks 10' or so to the ledge, walk left across the ... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Sargeant Rock : Rock Star (5.10d R)
By: Jason Partin When: Nov 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb, and in the sun most of the day (a plus in the winter!)
Relatively easy (5.10a ish) crack and chimney moves with, in my opinion, a crux being transitioning from the crack to the face for the first bolt (I cursed a lot). You can set up a top rope for this by climbing the 5.4 climb around the corner. I'm surprised that I don't see more people on this climb...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Wheel of Fortune (5.11b) : Photo
By: Murf When: Nov 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now you tell me!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Wheel of Fortune (5.11b) : Photo
By: Randy When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The upper (face) section heads up, then left, then up, then back right before topping out.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Mental Bankruptcy (5.10b PG13)
By: Randy When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA: Charles Cole, Maria Cranor, Dan Leichtfuss, 82.
Either rap from the bolt anchor at the end of pitch 2 (100+ feet) or Pitch 3: Continue left on the dike (5.7) to where is meets a ramp system. From here, either climb up and right to the summit, or down and left to eventually reach the ground.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Mental Bankruptcy (5.10b PG13)
By: Bryan Gohn When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: All bolts are 1/4"s and need to be replaced, including the 2 bolt semi-hanging belay. We missed the turn where you're supposed to start climbing up and kept on traversing the dike. Eventually we down climbed a low angle slab to some boulders and then climbed up an easy-5th crack/chimney to the summit. Took 4 pitches going this way.
The leader and follower should both be solid on gritty 5.10 slab. After the follower unclips the final bolt on p2 there's a couple 5.7 friction moves on questionable... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Dissolution Rock : Marital Sin (5.10c)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's tricky to get the cams in above the bolt, leaning out left and placing blindly in the thin, shallow crack. A fun, technical little problem.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Foolproof Tower : Buford's House of Liver (5.11a)
By: Adam Kimmerly When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Randy. I expected the route to ease up as the angle kicked back after the 4th bolt (which would indeed be hard to clip) but was wrong. Sustained, technical JTree slab climbing with big high steps on little edges in some spots and desperate smears in others higher up. All of the holds I used through the crux were solid. Definitely not a bomb and with the ample protection, it's well worth a shot if you're in the area.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Lenticular Dome : Mental Physics (5.7+)
By: Chris Winter When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route and highly recommended. Run the two pitches together and belay from the top off 2 #1 cams.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Diarrhea Dome : Bighorn Mating Grotto : Book of Changes (5.10b)
By: D. Evans When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led the crux on the FA. The route is called "Sanctuary." This name error may be corrected in a guide of the future.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Diarrhea Dome : Bighorn Mating Grotto : Take Two, They're Small (5.9+)
By: D. Evans When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA. Margy Floyd, Kelly Carignan 1985
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Butler Corridor : Dysecdysis (5.11)
By: Randy When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A rap anchor (a sling around a small boulder) can be found down and right of the top out. Several other climbs are on this wall.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Diarrhea Dome : Bighorn Mating Grotto : ... : Photo
By: Murf When: Sep 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks to me to be a photo of Book of Changes. CIBS is directly behind the climber.
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