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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollerball (5.10b)
By: Joe Lee When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: If you are not careful, the first crux WILL spit you off. As for the bolt, tenuous clip for me. I agree with A. Coward, there is a sequence to be found to send the roof. I went up and down and up and down and couldn't find a good enough jam to pull the roof before conking out. Great route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Hitman Rock : Acuity (5.7)
By: Donno When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: The new Vogel guide mistakenly locates this route on Cereal Rock.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollerbrah (5.12a)
By: Red When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd really like to see someone climb this one!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks : Left Peyote Crack (5.10+ PG13)
By: Tony B When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, it is the only 5.10 in Jtree I've ever fallen off of, and probably one of the only 5.10's I've fallen off of PERIOD in the last 20 years. I'm almost 100% certain it's the only one that has pooched me twice.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Labor Dome : Working Overtime (5.9)
By: tallmark515 When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Short but fun with a sweet heel hook when pulling over the bulge. I definitely didn't see a bolted anchor, walk off is easy though.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks : Middle Peyote Crack (5.9)
By: tallmark515 When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux is first 15 feet and is harder than 5.9. Straight in .5/.75 jamming a bit insecure for the book's 5.9 grade.
The rest of the route is easy 5.7 with a harder move up higher.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks : Left Peyote Crack (5.10+ PG13)
By: tallmark515 When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Bullshit! A sandbag even for Joshua Tree, the start should be given a bouldering grade, felt at least V3 and was unprotectable.
The techy powerful start requires powerful liebacking, stemming and a lot of awkward counter force movements that are all way to hard for the alleged 5.10 grade.
I guess the first 15 feet really don't count in the rating.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Labor Dome : A Woman's Work is Never Don... (5.10c)
By: tallmark515 When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Crux was moving from the crack to the face. The sequence was NOT obvious and a bit committing due to the polished right-footing. I fell on my onsight attempt and spent 10 minutes trying to figure out what to do, then I realized that moving out on to the face was the way to go.
Seems spicy to me for .10c.
Overall, a fun and challenging route that calls for a variety of techniques.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : Deflowered (5.7)
By: Joe Lee When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great trad climb. Super fun. Do start at the very base under the boulders. The chimney's sweet. And the finish is pretty exciting for "5.6". If The Eye is 5.1 and The Bong is 5.4. I guess this can pass as 5.6.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Labor Dome : A Woman's Work is Never Don... (5.10c)
By: ccmski When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A somewhat nebulis crux after an all too short splitter. That one difficult move sometimes feels much harder than 10C to me...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Rollerball Formation : Rollerball (5.10b)
By: ccmski When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of my favorite Josh 10s. Thanks for the bolt explanation- the location has left me scratching my head several times. A BD #7 stopper fits in the flare in the crack OK and makes the moves to clipping the bolt psychologically more acceptable. Fly up the roof and feel like superman!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : Deflowered (5.7)
By: Donno When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've caught 2 leader falls on this route: not for the new 5.6 leader. A classic Josh 5.6
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