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Sununu Place
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock
Latitude: 35.8180 Longitude: -106.1877
Description
The Sununu Place is probably the trashiest of the White Rock basalt cliffs, and hosts 2 short sport climbs. An assortment of garbage and other debris from above is present around the base of the climbs. The quality of the rock itself is much better than it appears. The area was developed by Cam Burns and Paul Fehlau.
The one major positive quality of the Sununu Place is that it is centrally located near some other finer crags, so if you get crowded out at one of those cliffs this is a good place to escape to. It's immediately under the Old New Place, on the same level to the south of Below The Old New Place, or can be reached easily if hiking up from Gallows Edge.
Be concerned about people above you at the right end of the Old New Place inadvertently knocking rocks; you're in the line of fire.
Like the other cliffs in this area, Sununu Place faces southeast and sees morning sun and late afternoon shade.
In the early 90s, the hangers were removed from these climbs, and in the mid/late 90s, Luke & Walt replaced them with homemade hangers so this area can be enjoyed again. Thanks, guys!
Getting There
Approach as for the Old New Place, then scramble down from the north end of the ONP to reach the Sununu Place.
Barbara's Midnight Missile
5.10c
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Sununu Place
| FA: | Cam Burns, Paul Fehlau |
| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.10c |
| Length: | 1 pitch, 30 feet |
Description
Barbara's Midnight Missile is the left of the 2 sport climbs at the Sununu Place.
The climbing is crimpy most of the way; the crux is a sequence of 2 or three moves off of a fair-but-not-sinker pocket at a steeper section between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. I found the 3rd bolt fairly difficult to clip and maybe worth skipping entirely.
I am guessing the route name probably refers to the former first lady Bush, although I'm probably too young to get it.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. (The old guide reports the hangers were stolen, but they are currently present.)
Bush Whacker
5.9
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Sununu Place
| FA: | Cam Burns, Paul Fehlau |
| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.9 |
| Length: | 1 pitch, 30 feet |
Description
Bush Whacker is the right of the 2 sport climbs at the Sununu Place. I figure the FAs are complementing the 1st prez Bush rather than the 2nd one.
Pick out the first bolts down and left of an obvious roof. Getting to the first bolt is a little strange, you can come in from easier climbing to the right and just barely clip it if you don't like 5.9 moves off the ground. The crux is a steep reachy move to a jug just above the first bolt. Fun climbing up a shallow left-facing corner leads to the top. At the last bolt, traverse left to the anchor for Barbara's Midnight Missile.
The new Jemez guide calls this climb 5.8+; the original guide says 5.9+.
Protection
3 bolts with homemade hangers. (The old guide reports the hangers were stolen, but they are currently present.) At the top, traverse left to the 2-bolt anchor for Barbaras Midnight Missile.
Unnamed
5.10b
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Sununu Place
| FA: | Burns and Fehlau? |
| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.10b |
| Length: | 1 pitch, 30 feet |
Description
The seam between the two sport climbs at the Sununu Place (Barbara's Midnight Missile and Bush Whacker) provides a 3rd climb in the area.
Set a toprope from the anchor for Barbara's Midnight Missile, perhaps with a directional piece using the last bolt on Bush Whacker and give it a shot. The crux is at a steep part about half-way up. (I haven't tried to lead this route yet but...) It appears to have good nut placements and occasional small cam placements the whole way.
Protection
Cams to 1", nuts, RPs?