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South Wall of the Y


New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The
Description
The south side of the Y canyon has a few excellent climbs. It's main advantage is that it is shaded almost all the time, so this can be a great choice in the summer. It's a little less convenient compared to the north side of the Y, since you don't hike past the top of the cliff on the approach. (To reach the clifftop to build or remove anchors, scramble up 3rd class ledges to the right of the rightmost route (Little Roof).

Occasionally, the stream in this canyon can be flowing too high to cross safely.

Getting There
Hike into the Y canyon, and cross over to the south side of the canyon (cross the streambed when you're almost at the big cave on the north side).


South Wall of the Y : South Wall of The Y



(24) Apeshit (AKA:Cavemantle) 

5.10

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : South Wall of the Y
FA: Mike Roybal, ~1973
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10b/c
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Description
This climb has a nice slick start consisting of a thin finger crack and some varnished foot placements that ascend leftward to a good underclinging finger crack which offers good gear placements to protect the crux moves. Then grab the sharp edge of a jugular shelf that is heel hooked and mantled to a bolt with no hanger, use a nut that can be a stopper cinched onto the bolt for pro, or better yet, use a bolt hanger and bring a nut that fits a 3/8 stud bolt. Don't forget to clean the hanger when you are done as it will most likely get stripped. After protecting above the cavemantle grab some round jugs to gain access into the upper handcrack portion of the climb which gobbles gear all the way to the top.

Location
This route is the furthest developed obvious crack climb to the east on the South Wall across the river from the North Wall. It is located just to the right of a hangerless 5.12 sport route that probably never gets climbed. Walk down about 100 yards to the west. A couple 5th class moves are required on this down climb

Protection
Stoppers, 1 set if Aliens, Doubles of Camalots from #1 to #4, and trad runners. Belay from live trees and supplement with gear. If top roping trail a long static line for a good TR set.



(27) Twin Cracks 

5.6

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : South Wall of the Y
FA: ???
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.7
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This climb is a sweet moderate that includes two finger cracks that parallel each other and split directions at the top. Straight up the right side crack is the preferred exit. This is a great beginner lead as it offers excellent gear placements.

Location
This route is located on the South Wall about 40 yards to the west of Apeshit. There is a nice tree at the bottom start. Walk down about 60 yards to the west.

Protection
Stopper, cams to 1", and some runners. Belay off of any live trees you might find on the top.



(28) Little Roof 

5.7

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : South Wall of the Y
FA: ???
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 45 feet
Description
This is a good but slick handcrack that meanders up to a little roof and then exit right around the roof on bomber holds. The crux is at about 15 feet off the deck to easier climbing above.

Location
This route is located on the South Wall and is 10 feet to the right of Twin Cracks. Walk down to the right off of the top.

Protection
Hexes, Camalots from .5 to #4, runners, and some shoulder runners for the rope drag under the roof. Anchor off of trees and supplement with gear.