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The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)


New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock
Latitude: 35.7913  Longitude: -106.2082 
Description
This is a 45 foot tall south-facing basalt cliff with 25 traditional and toprope routes. The routes tend to be on the short side, but are extremely high quality. Most follow crack systems, though there are a few face routes worth doing. As far as I know, bolted routes are not allowed here, as topropes are fairly easy to set on the bench above the cliff, and many of the routes can be led with clean gear. This area has the largest concentration of hard crack climbs in White Rock.

Getting There
From NM state road 4, turn southeast on Monterey S. Follow this for.7 miles until you come to Potrillo road. Turn right on Potrillo and continue for .8 miles until you come to Estante road. Take another right and follow the road back until you come to a pullout on the right side of the road (.3 miles), just past a fire hydrant ( this hydrant is on the right side of the road as you approach, don't be fooled by an earlier hydrant on the left). Park here. Follow the obvious trail south until it splits, and follow the left branch. After passing a sign instructing you not to "disturb rocks", you will be at the canyon rim. Walk left for 25 yards and scramble down the gully. Walk north along the base of the cliffs (past the Big Enchilada's bolted routes) for approximately 250 yards and you are at the Crack House. DO NOT approach this area from above. It is necessary to cross private land to do so, which is a no-no. When setting up topropes, use the gully on the far right end of the crag and try to stay on the lower bench area as much as possible.


[hide] The Crack House (aka Estante Edge) : Estante Edge right (south) side.

These are photos of photos (no scanner available to me) from the old LA rock guide that I worked on in college. Route numbers may or may not correspond to routes on the site, you'll have to take everything here with a grain of salt.


[hide] The Crack House (aka Estante Edge) : Estante Edge right (north) side.

These are photos of photos (no scanner available to me) from the old LA rock guide that I worked on in college. Route numbers may or may not correspond to routes on the site, you'll have to take everything here with a grain of salt.



(01) True Grit 

5.11b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)
FA: Walt Wehner and Mick Schein, 1996
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This rout ascends black rock just to the right of some bubbly basalt knobs. The first 15 feet are the crux, then some fun moves lead out of a scoop and continue up an overhanging wall to the top.

Location
If you are facing the Crack House, this is the fourth line in from the left which is approximately 50 feet from the beginning of the crag.

Protection
No bolts, anchor with gear.



(02) La Petit Mort 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 50 feet
Description
Route #2 (off to the left) in my old guide. Climbs a right-slanting seam, then back leftwards in a discontinuous crack system.

Location
8 feet right of True Grit.

Protection
TR



(03) Ring of Fire 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)
FA: Walt Wehner- TR, Josh Smith- lead?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12a
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This is perhaps the best route at the cliff, and may be the best hard crack climb in White Rock. Climb some thin face and crack moves for 20 feet to a 10 foot roof split by a hand/finger crack. Powerful moves lead out of the lip, then it eases up to the top.

Location
This route is about 20 feet to the right of (01) True Grit.

Protection
No Bolts, anchor with gear.


[hide] (03) Ring of Fire : The huge roof is Ring of Fire.



(04) Unknown 

5.12

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.12
Length: 45 feet
Description
The crack out the right side of the Ring of Fire roof. I TR'd this line, but it wasn't ever led when I was living in Los Alamos. I'm sure someone has done it by now.

Location
Same start as Ring of Fire, then out the righthand roof crack.

Protection
Can't remember. I only TR'd this line.



(05) Cactus Box 

5.10a/b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)
FA: ???
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a/b
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This route has two starts that are both about the same difficulty, leading to a large block with a cactus behind it. From the block continue straight up, then slightly left in the thin crack system.

Location
This route is roughly 30 feet to the right of (03) Ring of Fire.

Protection
No Bolts, anchor with gear.


[hide] (05) Cactus Box : Cactus Box (don't anchor from dead tree!)