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South Side, Big Enchilada


New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The
Description
The south side of The Big Enchilada hosts about 25 crack climbs of reasonable to good quality. Most of these will require trad anchors.
The cliff actually faces southwest (ca. 220 degrees azimuth), and hence sees sun from late morning through the end of the day. The leftmost routes on this wall occupy a big east-facing corner, though, so receive earlier sun and shade.

Getting There
From the descent gully at The Big Enchilada, take a right (south) and go around the corner to the south-facing side of the cliff.

Routes
Because so many of the climbs are "unnamed," this concordance list hopfully links the route descriptions and topos from the published guides: 1.) the online guide by Chen and Wehner, 2.) Beverly (2006), and 3.) Jackson (2006) as well as 4.) Wa3lt's unpublished notes (which he graciously posted here). It appears that some routes are included in some guides but are not in others, some ratings differ, and they list them in different order. (Note, I have TR'd or led very few of these routes, so am mainly working from the published resources for now).

Historical priority of route numbers is given to Wa3lt's list in this case, so the photos Wa3lt posted here will match the route descriptions. Note that there are discrepancies between Wa3lt's topo and the online Chen/Wehner guide in the area of Routes 16-18.

From left to right (west to east, which is the opposite of how they are approached from the walk-down), the reported lines on the south side of The Big Enchilada are:

Chimney - not in Chen/Wehner; Beverly #1 (5.7); not in Jackson
Offwidth/chimney - Chen/Wehner #1 (5.8); Beverly #2 (5.8); not in Jackson
Dihedral - not in Chen/Wehner; Beverly #3 (5.6); not in Jackson
Boba Fett - Chen/Wehner #2 (5.12a); Beverly #4 (5.12a); not in Jackson
Route 3 - Chen/Wehner #3 (5.9); Beverly #5 (5.9); not in Jackson
HuiHui's Revenge - Chen/Wehner #4 (5.12a); Beverly #6 (5.12a); not in Jackson
Route 5 - Chen/Wehner #5 (5.10b/c); Beverly #7 (5.10b/c); not in Jackson
Route 6 - Chen/Wehner #6 (unrated); Beverly #8 (5.10b); Jackson #25 (5.10?)
Route 7 - Chen/Wehner #7 (unrated); Beverly #9 (5.10c); Jackson #24 (5.10?).
Route 8 - Chen/Wehner #8 (5.10b); Beverly #10 (5.10b); Jackson #23 (5.10b).
Unnamed - not in Chen/Wehner; not in Beverly; Jackson #22 (5.10d). This is not illustrated on Wa3lt's photo; it would finish right of Route 8.
Route 9 - Chen/Wehner #9 (5.10d); Beverly #11 (5.10d); Jackson #21 (5.11a/b)
Petroglyphs - Chen/Wehner #10 (5.11a/b); Beverly #12 (5.10d/5.11a); Jackson #20 (5.11b/c)
Route 11 - Chen/Wehner #11 (5.11b/c); Beverly #13 (5.11b/c); Jackson #19 (5.11c)
Route 12 - Chen/Wehner #12 (5.11c); Beverly #14 (5.11c); Jackson #18 (5.11c/d).
Route 13 - Chen/Wehner #13 (5.11c/d); Beverly #15 (5.11c/d); Jackson #17 (5.11b)
Route 14 - Chen/Wehner #14 (5.11b); Beverly #16 (5.11b); not in Jackson
Route 15 - Chen/Wehner #15 (5.9+); Beverly #17 (5.9+); Jackson #16 (5.9+).
Route 16 - not in Chen/Wehner; Beverly #18 (5.12a); not in Jackson.
Route 17 - Chen/Wehner #16 (5.10c); Beverly #19 (5.10c); Jackson #15 (5.10a)
Route 18 - Chen/Wehner #17 (5.9+); Beverly #20 (5.9); Jackson #14 (5.9+)
Unnamed - Chen/Wehner #18 (5.12a); not in Beverly; Jackson #13 (5.12a). This is not illustrated on Wa3lt's photo; it would be between 18-19.
Route 19 - Chen/Wehner #19 (5.9); Beverly #21 (5.9); Jackson #12 (5.9)
Headjam - Chen/Wehner #20 (5.9); Beverly #22 (5.9); Jackson #11 (5.9).
Route 21 - Chen/Wehner #21 (5.10d); Beverly #23 (5.10d); Jackson #10 (5.10d)
Route 22 - Chen/Wehner #22 (5.11a); Beverly #24 (5.11a); Jackson #9 (5.11a)
Route 23 - Chen/Wehner #23 (5.9+); Beverly #25 (5.9+); Jackson #8 (5.9+)

If anyone knows of actual route names, even informal names, let us know, because that would be better than a numbered list.

Side Notes
Additional comments [from GP]:



[hide] South Side, Big Enchilada : South side of the Big Enchilada. Sorry for the poor quality, this is a photo of a photo.



(00) Chimney 

5.7

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.7
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Description
This route provides a chimney in which to practice. There are face holds inside the chimney if you don't want to commit to the body jamming, or you can ignore them and go full-on chimneying. Unfortunately, it's really short.

This route is described and pictured by Beverly (2006:200-201) as Route #1. It lies left of route #1 in the Chen/Wehner on-line guide. Jackson (2006) doesn't list any routes this far left on the crag (although, curiously, he has a photo covering this area on page 186).


Location
This is the farthest left (west) route described on the south wall of the Big E. It occupies the left side of a big east-facing corner, so it appears to get early AM sun and early PM shade.

Approach the base of chimney two ways: From the right, go up the 4th class blocks, or from the left, start up a blocky 5.8-ish crack system to make the actual climbing last longer.

Protection
Single trad rack of nuts and cams to maybe 3" will get you up. No need for big stuff, there's plenty of placements on the inner faces of the chimney itself. A gear anchor can be built at the top.


[hide] (00) Chimney : Unnamed chimney (5.7), The Big Enchilada, White Rock, NM.



(01) Offwidth/chimney 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Description
Blocky climbing at the base leads to a short, clean, arching offwidth, into which it is difficult to gain entry. Past the offwidth, to the right, a chimney leads to the top.

This route is described and pictured by Beverly (2006:200-201) as Route #2. It is also apparently route #1 in the Chen/Wehner on-line guide. Jackson (2006) doesn't list any routes this far left on the crag (although, curiously, he has a photo covering this area on page 186).

Location
Near the far left (western) end of the south face of the Big E. The route ascends the left wall of a large right-facing corner. Go left of the pinon tree that marks the bottom of the (01.5) Dihedral climb. Even though we're on the south face of the Big E, this climb gets early PM shade thanks to the big left wall.

Protection
At least one #6 cam will be needed, or the equivalent. Multiples of biggies would probably be desirable so you don't have to walk up your first big placement.
Build a gear anchor on top. Beverly says to TR it, but it might be difficult to toprope because it traverses so much.


[hide] (01) Offwidth/chimney : Unnamed offwidth/chimney (5.8), The
Big Enchilada, White Rock, NM.



(01.5) Dihedral 

5.6

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.7
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
An interesting easy dihedral climb with fun moves and good protection. Steep at the top, with some solid 5.6 moves (in the same vein as Car Camping with the Kids) and a crux at the exit.
Unfortunately the interesting dihedral part of the climb is only in the top section; the bottom one-third is mainly a blocky ledgy system with some loose-ish boulders. The climb would warrant two stars or more if it weren't for the bottom part.

Also, note that a toaster-sized loose block sits atop a small pillar at the base of the dihedral. You can stand on it safely, but don't pull outwardly on it. In general, too, it maybe best to situate the belayer slightly off to the right of the base of the route, out of the way of any possible rockfall from the ledges.

This route is described and pictured by Beverly (2006:200-201) as Route #3. It appears to lie between routes #1 and #2 in the Chen/Wehner on-line guide. Jackson (2006) doesn't list any routes this far left on the crag (although, curiously, he has a photo covering this area on page 186).

Location
Near the far left (western) end of the south face of the Big E. The route ascends a prominent right-facing dihedral that ascends above a broken ledgy area. A landmark is the christmas-tree-shaped pinon tree growing about 15 feet above the ground, on the ledgy area, just to the left of the base of the dihedral. Even though we're on the south face of the Big E, this climb gets early afternoon shade thanks to the big left wall.
Two large cholla are growing just left of the base of the route, and a fat claret cup is growing on the upper ledge just to the right of the route. So, throwing down a toprope could be problematic. If you need to drop the line from above, maybe move about 10 yards to the east, throw down a line to avoid a cactus collision, and then walk the top of your rope back to your anchor.

Protection
Standard set of nuts and cams up to a BD #3. Maybe doubles of hands to small fists would be reassuring.
A gear anchor can be built at the top, or sling the nearby junipers (only one tree is readily close by, though).


[hide] (01.5) Dihedral : Dihedral, 5.6, The Big Enchilada, White Rock, NM.



(02) Boba Fett 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.12a
Length: 50 feet
Description
Scramble up bushy boulders for 15 feet, then climb a steep 45 foot face without using the aretes or cracks (contrived).

Location
Route #2 in Chen/Wehner, but is not covered in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #4 (5.12a) but is not in Jackson.

Protection
TR



(03) Route 3 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 50 feet
Description
Fun climb up a nice line, with some excellent fist jams. The large crack system at the left end of the crag. Begin by climbing to a ledge, then a hand/fist crack to the top.

Also, from the ledge you can climb up the route 3 crack for ~10 ft then angle up a ramp to the right to meet the upper part of route 5, bypassing both cruxes. Nice ~5.8 lead.

Location
Route #3 in Chen/Wehner, but is not in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #5 (5.9) but is not in Jackson.

Protection
Gear to 3".

TR can be set up with 2 static lines, one to a juniper and one around a boulder



(04) HuiHui's Revenge 

5.12-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.12-
Length: 50 feet
Description
Up a narrow face. Don't use the cracks on either side. Contrived, but fun.

Location
Route #4 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #6 (5.12a) but is not in Jackson.

Protection
TR



(05) Route 5 

5.10

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10
Length: 50 feet
Description
Climb cracks, work rightwards and up off the ledge.

You can make the lower part of this route more interesting by starting up a wide crack between detached twin towers, then up another crack to reach the right side of the ledge, below the main route 5 crack.

Location
Route #5 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #7 (5.10b/c) but is not in Jackson.

Protection
Pro to 3".

TR can be set up with one static line to a juniper + gear.



(06) Route 6 

5.10

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.10
Length: 45 feet
Description
Climb to a small tree growing in the cliff, then to the top. A very loose (avoid) climb.

Location
Route #6 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #8 (5.10b) and Jackson #25 (5.10?).

Protection
TR



(07) Route 7 

5.10

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.10
Length: 45 feet
Description
Climb the middle of a large, low roof, to a tree (as for Route 6). Kinda loose.
Note that Wa3lt's Photo shows a right finish, while Beverly's and Jackson's topos show a left finish.


Location
Route #7 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo. Look for the small tree halfway up.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #9 (5.10c) and Jackson #24 (5.10?).

Protection
TR



(08) Route 8 

5.10

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10b/c
Length: 50 feet
Description
Look for the big roof near the left end of the Big Enchilada's South Side; choose which bouldery start (crux) to take to let you reach the roof's righthand side. Move past the big roof in a wide crack with awkward chimneying. Loose crack climbing leads to the top.

Location
Route #8 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Jackson #23 (5.10b) and Beverly's #10 (5.10b), though the start shown by Beverly is a little bit right of those shown in the other guides.

Protection
Standard rack to 3".



(09) Route 9 

5.10+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10c/d
Length: 50 feet
Description
Climb the dihedral right of Route 8 (around the corner) and then up easier cracks to the top.

Location
Route #9 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #11 (5.10d) and Jackson #21 (5.11a/b).

Protection
Pro to 3".



(10) Petroglyphs 

5.10+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10+
Length: 50 feet
Description
Climb an obvious layback starting just left of the triangular petroglyph, and then up through blocky roofs (bouldery crux). Angle up and right, finishing up on easier blocky cracks.

Location
Route #10 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #12 (5.10d/5.11a) and Jackson #20 (5.11b/c).

Protection
Pro to 3"



(11) Route 11 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 50 feet
Description
Start about 8' right of the petroglyphs, in a small open dihedral. Climb a seam in the dihedral, to some difficult face moves passing 2 roofs. Follow easier crack terrain above, bearing a little to the right.

Location
Route #11 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #13 (5.11b/c) and Jackson #19 (5.11c).

This is the next obvious start about 8' right of the rock art.

Protection
Probably best to TR; can be led with nuts and cams up to 3", with small wired nuts and a #2 camalot protecting the crux moves.



(12) Route 12 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 50 feet
Description
Difficult face moves to easier cracks (are you sensing a theme here yet?)

Location
Route #12 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #14 (5.11c) and Jackson #18 (5.11c/d). Jackson's finish is a little different.

Protection
TR, probably.



(13) Route 13 

5.11+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11+
Length: 50 feet
Description
Easy terrain to a small roof (crux) then easier above.

Location
Route #13 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #15 (5.11c/d) and Jackson #17 (5.11b).

Protection
TR, probably.



(14) Route 14 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 50 feet
Description
Easy moves on jugs to a crux reach in the right-facing dihedral. High quality, but loose.

Location
Route #14 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #16 (5.11b), but is not in Jackson.

Protection
TR, or lead it with TCUs protecting the crux.



(15) Route 15 

5.9+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9+
Length: 50 feet
Description
Climb straight up the broken-ish crack system, which turns into a right-facing corner and turns a roof up high, and ends just right of the tree.

Midway up the cliff, it's recommended (and slightly easier) to step right to a big flake above a clean face. Pull through 2 bulges and top out right of the tree.

Location
Route #15 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo (which shows the left variation for the upper portion of the climb).

This climb is also listed as Beverly #17 (5.9+) and Jackson #16 (5.9+). Beverly's topo shows the righthand variation of this climb.

Protection
Pro to 3"



(16) Route 16 

5.12-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.12-
Length: 50 feet
Description
Climb either of 2 steep starts to a loose ledge, then straight up the face, staying right to avoid the crack. Contrived.

Location
Route #16 as shown in the South Side beta photo. This is NOT THE SAME as Route #16 in the Chen/Wehner online guide.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #18 (5.12a), but is not in Jackson.

Protection
TR



(17) Route 17 

5.10

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a/b
Length: 50 feet
Description
Up a bouldery start (crux) with tricky protection to a good ledge. The clean right-facing dihedral above is excellent and well-protected. The first obstacle is turning a 2' roof with jugs to a lieback, followed by sustained stemming in the corner. A brief and easier offwidth section concludes the climb.

Location
Route #17 as shown in the South Side beta photo. Note, however, that this is listed as Route #16 in the Chen/Wehner online guide.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #19 (5.10c) and Jackson #15 (5.10a).

Protection
Standard rack to 2.5 inches.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.



(18) Route 18 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 50 feet
Description
Up a loose dihedral to a nice handcrack, traverse left to a rest on a good ledge, lieback and jam as you move up, and then back right to a corner. Finish straight up a beautiful hand crack.

Location
Route #18 as shown in the South Side beta photo. Note, however, that this is listed as Route #17 in the Chen/Wehner online guide.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #20 (5.9) and Jackson #14 (5.9+).

Protection
Pro to 2.5 inches.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.



(19) Route 19 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 50 feet
Description
Up the loose dihedral and out the right side of a roof via offwidth.

South Side beta photo and Beverly both show this route going right and joining Headjam 1/2-2/3 of the way up, but if you stay left through the off-width crux (maybe 5.9+ or 5.10-, good knee jam possible if you have smallish legs), you can parallel Headjam to near the top as shown by Jackson.

Location
Route #19 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #21 (5.9) and Jackson #12 (5.9).

Protection
TR, or lead it with a rack that includes a #4 camalot.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.



(20) Headjam 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 50 feet
Description
Begin by stemming your way up an ever-steepening obvious wide slot (this is where the 4" piece may come in handy, although smaller gear options exist deeper in the fissure). Pull through the bulge, gain the ledge, and continue up the broken dihedral (same finish as for Route 19).

Location
Route #20 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #22 (5.9) and Jackson #11 (5.9).

Protection
Standard rack up to 3" (4" optional at bottom) to a 2-bolt anchor.



(21) Route 21 

5.10+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10c/d
Length: 50 feet
Description
Up and leftwards on blocky cracks to a big ledge. From the right end of the ledge, straight up the finger crack (crux).

Location
Route #21 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #23 (5.10d) and Jackson #10 (5.10d).

Protection
TR, or lead it with a standard rack up to 3"



(22) Route 22 

5.11-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11-
Length: 50 feet
Description
If you're going to climb a 5.11 at the Big Enchilada, "Twenty-Two" is a good choice.

Up a broken dihedral, pull a small roof, and layback (1st crux) up to another overhung crux passing over a bulge below the prow.

Location
Route #22 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #24 (5.11a) and Jackson #9 (5.11a).

Protection
TR, or lead this with a standard rack up to 2", with 2 ea. of smaller cams and TCUs helpful.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.


[hide] (22) Route 22 : Roger on an unnamed 5.11a crack near the right end of the south side of the Big Enchilada.



(23) Route 23 

5.9+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : South Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 50 feet
Description
This climb is about 10' right of "#22"; it is the rightmost line on the South Side of the Big Enchilada that looks worth considering.

Climb up a blocky dihedral to a ledge. Climb the headwall above, following the crack in its center that begins as hands, passes over a block, then turns to a finger crack. Finish on easy slab to an anchor on the blocks at the top.

Below the route 23 anchors there are at least 3 distinct routes above the ledge. The left route uses the crack described above, and may be 5.8+ or 5.9-. The middle route follows the left side of the face to the right, using the nose/arête, and has a short 5.10 crux. This fits Jackson’s #8 route description (“difficult to protect, best to toprope”), although his photo shows a line up the left crack. The 3rd route follows the next crack to the right, off the rope line, goes at ~5.8, and makes a nice easier lead. You can also do at least 3 different routes to get to the ledge, the left one being the best for pro. Also, the loose rocks and rubble on the ledge have been cleaned.

Location
Route #23 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #25 (5.9+) and Jackson #8 (5.9+).

Protection
Standard rack up to 2.5 inches.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.