www.mountainproject.com

East Side, Big Enchilada


New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The
Description
This is the east-facing cliff of The Big Enchilada. It faces the Rio, and with an azimuth of about 120 degrees, it sees sun until about midday. It is often less windy here than on the south side of The Big Enchilada.
About a dozen routes are found here, including the only two bolted routes at The Big Enchilada. An obvious 8-foot roof about 50 feet up is The Big Enchilada Roof, the source of the name for the entire crag.

Getting There
Go down the standard descent gully, and take a left turn (north); from the bottom of the gully it's about 50 feet to The Big Enchilada Roof area. A few more routes are a little farther north, before the cliff deteriorates into broken rock.

Routes
Because some of the climbs are "unnamed," this concordance list hopfully links the route descriptions and topos from the published guides: 1.) the online guide by Chen and Wehner, 2.) Beverly (2006), and 3.) Jackson (2006), as well as 4.) Wa3lt's unpublished notes (which he graciously posted here). It appears that some routes are included in some guides but are not in others, some ratings differ, and they list them in different order. (Note, I have TR'd or led very few of these routes, so am mainly working from the published resources for now).

Historical priority of route numbers is given to Wa3lt's list in this case, so the photos Wa3lt posted here will match the route descriptions.

From left to right (south to north, the same way they are approached from the walk-down), the reported lines on the east side of The Big Enchilada are:

Dihedrals - 5.8; not in Chen/Wehner, Beverly, or Jackson
Cheese Enchilada - 5.8; not Chen/Wehner; not in Beverly; Jackson #7 (sort of). Start as for 'Big Enchilada' but escape up left 15' before reaching the roof and then either stay left or traverse back right above the roof. Jackson's description and topo for his route #7 seems to combine and confuse this route with the 'Big Enchilada.' His topo is approximately correct to keep it at 5.8, and he shows where to go left to avoid the roof, but he doesn't show an easier start to the left, and his exit is different than described here. It can be easily toproped from the same setup as the 'Big E, Left' although there's a little pendulum risk.
The Big Enchilada, Left Crack - Chen/Wehner #1 (5.9+/10a); Beverly #1 (5.9+/10a); Jackson #7 (5.9+/10a)
The Big Enchilada - not in Chen/Wehner; Beverly #2 (5.11a); not in Jackson. Can be toproped from the same setup as Huevos Verdes.
Huevos Verdes - Chen/Wehner #2 (5.12b); Beverly #3 (5.11c); Jackson #6 (5.12b).
Chimney - Chen/Wehner #3 (5.9); Beverly #4 (5.10); Jackson #5 (5.9)
Big Jalapena - Chen/Wehner #4 (5.11c); Beverly #5 (5.11b/c); Jackson #4 (5.11c).
Route 5 - Chen/Wehner #5 (5.10b/c); Beverly #6 (5.10b/c); Jackson #3 (5.10b/c)
Route 6 - Chen/Wehner #6 (5.10d/11a); Beverly #7 (5.10d/11a); Jackson #2 (5.10d/11a)
Route 7 - Chen/Wehner #7 (5.11b); Beverly #8 (5.11b); Jackson #1 (5.11b).
Unnamed - 5.8; not in Chen/Wehner, Beverly, or Jackson. Find the easiest path up to the juniper tree anchor.
Unnamed - 5.8; not in Chen/Wehner, Beverly, or Jackson. Another possible line up broken rock right of the good part of the cliff.

If anyone knows of actual route names, even informal names, let us know, because that would be better than a numbered list.

Side Notes
When throwing down a toprope for the routes north of the Big Enchilada roof, watch out for several big rope-stabbing cholla at the base!


[hide] East Side, Big Enchilada : Looking up at The Big Enchilada roof. The ropes to the right are hanging down the 5.9 chimney.


[hide] East Side, Big Enchilada : East side of Big Enchilada. From my old guide.



(00) Dihedrals 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada
FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
This line is not specifically described in any previous guide, but is apparently one of those "easier routes [that] are to the left of the... Big Enchilada" mentioned by Beverly (2006:202-203).
A blocky start leads to a right-facing dihedral with a crack that pinches out. Surmount another block, and follow the next right-facing dihedral to the top.

Location
Ascends a dihedral system about 15 feet left of the Big Enchilada roof, at the left (southern) end of the east face of the Big Enchilada cliff. Walk-off down the standard approach gully.

Protection
Trad rack of single nuts and cams to #3BD will work. Gear anchor on top (several junipers - and a dead pinon- are set back from the edge, too). Easy to set a TR.


[hide] (00) Dihedrals : Unnamed dihedrals (5.8), The Big Enchilada (east side), White Rock, NM.



(00.5) Cheese Enchilada 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8+
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Description
This line, just left of the Big Enchilada, is an easier option to avoid the intimidating roof, and also makes a good 5.7/5.8 route.

Start as for Big Enchilada's left roof crack (1 5.7+ or 5.8 move near the beginning) but escape up left 15' before reaching the roof, following a ramp up and left to a good ledge. From here, you can traverse back right above the roof (useful if a TR is set there), or go straight up following cracks over blocky overhangs, or go left even farther (easiest).

I've heard that some folks are calling this line 'Cheese Enchilada.', although it's not written up in any of the guides, but it seems a fitting name.

Location
Start as for the Big Enchilada's left side crack, but escape left on a left-trending ramp before reaching the big roof.

This line is shown approximately as #7 in Rock Climbing: New Mexico, perhaps inadvertently.

Protection
Nuts and cams to 3".
Build your own anchor. Most trees near the edge have now died, so use gear or tie off columns/blocks.



(01) The Big Enchilada (Left Crack) 

5.9+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9+
Length: 50 feet
Description
Up the lefthand crack and out the roof. Center roof crack finish is 5.11a.

Location
Route #1 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the East Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #1 (5.9+/10a) and Jackson #7 (5.9+/10a). Beverly's topo is correct. Jackson's topo is wrong in that it avoids the left roof crack entirely, but it has the correct start.

Protection
TR, or lead it with a standard rack up to a #4 camalot.



(01.5) The Big Enchilada 

5.11a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11a
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Description
The namesake line at the crag is the Big Enchilada, the obvious crack splitting the most prominent roof high on the east side. It looks pretty big from below, but it isn't quite as big or as tough as Len's Roof at the Overlook.

The approach to the roof can be done in a couple of different ways. The easiest is to climb the right-facing corner that leads up to the Big Enchilada roof's left side. Better and more fun is to go straight up directly, following a thin seam beneath the roof (after your choice of easier starts- the thin hands crack on the prow is nice).

The roof itself protects really well with hand size and smaller cams. Turning the lip of the roof is the crux of the climb.

Step right to the anchor for Huevos Verdes, or continue up wide & easy cracks to the top of the cliff.

This climb is #2 Unnamed in Jemez Rock, but is definitely the Big Enchilada. The other crack near this one, the crack passing the roof on the left-hand side, and others even farther left, are wimpier variations that have been unofficially given condescending names such as "Chicken Enchilada" and "Cheese Enchilada", cause this big one's the only one that offers up more than most people can stomach.

Location
The center crack through the obvious roof.

This line is shown as #2 in Jemez Rock.

Protection
Cams up to 3", with doubles in the hand-sizes helpful. Bigger cams might also be placed, but aren't essential.




(02) Huevos Verdes 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 50 feet
Description
Lefthand sport route, much harder than it looks. Cracks are offroute.

Location
Route #2 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the East Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #3 (5.11c) and Jackson #6 (5.12b).

Protection
3 bolts, plus supplemental gear.



(03) Chimney 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 50 feet
Description
Hard to miss this one - it's a chimney route (one of the only ones in White Rock). Fun if you like that kind of thing, not so fun if not!

Location
Route #3 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the East Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #4 (5.10) and Jackson #5 (5.9).

Protection
TR from the anchors for the adjacent climbs (may not be accessible from above?), or lead it with a standard rack up to a #4 camalot



(04) Big Jalapena 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 50 feet
Description
Follow a crack system with really fun moves to a good stance just below the steep face. Make a move up to clip the first bolt on the face and then figure out how to pull on the thin but positive holds to get up over the bulge. Clip two more bolts en route to the two bolt anchor.

Location
Route #4 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the East Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #5 (5.11b/c) and Jackson #4 (5.11c).

Protection
Pro to 2.5", 3 bolts and a two bolt anchor. The bolt hangers are the "SMC death hangers" and could use an upgrading.



(05) Route 5 

5.10

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10-
Length: 50 feet
Description
Scramble up easy rock going left or right around a big block to get established below the wide hands/fist crack. Jam the crack awkwardly or feel around inside for some edges and sigh some relief when you grab the big flake sticking out and it doesn't wobble. Stand up on said flake and enjoy some good hand crack climbing up the rest of the way.
Either step left near the top to use the anchors on (04) Big Jalapena or continue on easier terrain to the top and setup your own anchor.

Location
Route #5 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the East Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #6 (5.10b/c) and Jackson #3 (5.10b/c).

Protection
Pro from .5 to 4". Doubles in the hand sizes if you want to generously protect.



(06) Route 6 

5.10+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10c/d
Length: 50 feet
Description
Climb the crack right of (05) Route 5. Start up blocky terrain to a good stance below the bulging finger crack. Get in some good finger size pro and gaston, or perhaps lieback, up through bulge with little to no feet. This is the crux. Above, climb through some good hand jams to a big, positive flake. Either finish straight up along the flake's left edge or climb fun moves to the right underclinging the flake to cruiser terrain. Bring a couple double-length slings for the two-bolt anchor at the top.

Location
Route #6 in Chen/Wehner, as shown in the East Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #7 (5.10d/11a) and Jackson #2 (5.10d/11a).

Protection
TR, or lead it with a standard rack up to 3". Two-bolt anchor at top.



(07) Route 7 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Big Enchilada, The : East Side, Big Enchilada
FA: Unknown
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 50 feet
Description
Climb the splitter handcrack/corner, then up the face/seam off the ledge.

Location
Route #7 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the East Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #8 (5.11b) and Jackson #1 (5.11b).

Beverly's and Jackson's topos show a choice of blocky starts leading to the ledge. Jackson's version also exits the top farther left than in Wa3lt's or Beverly's photos. If a toprope anchor is set where Wa3lt's and Beverly's version hits the rim, it is very possible to climb a 5.8 variation of the route by staying farther right of the seam above the ledge, and then traversing left under the roof.


Protection
TR from a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, which was installed to prevent further damage to trees.