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Potrillo Cliffs


New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock
Latitude: 35.7943  Longitude: -106.2162 
Description
Potrillo cliffs is the primo beginner toproping/trad area in White Rock, and was the first major basalt cliff "discovered" for climbing in White Rock. The cliff has two faces: one facing south, and one facing west, so you can find sun or shade as you like.

It's a great place for the beginning trad leader, as the cliff is short, hosts many 5.6-5.9 routes, and the pro is great. The cliff is a little shorter than most at White Rock (45'), but for the more experienced there are a number of compelling 5.10 climbs and a few harder ones.

Bolts were once installed here to provide anchors and prevent damage to the trees, but these were chopped by unknown persons; but new bolts may again be installed for safety and ecological reasons (but it is expected that any new bolts could be anonymously chopped again for "ethical" reasons); so people might again put in more bolted anchors (which in turn might be removed); and perhaps the entire cliff-top will ultimately be riddled with 1/2" holes with metal studs and no trees?

So, go prepared to build anchors by tying off the trees or with trad gear (which is recommended).

A detailed guide is found here, with photos showing the routes.
http://www.lamountaineers.org/pdf/Potrillo_Cliffs.pdf
The route numbers on this page coincide with those in that online guide.

Getting There
Take NM state road 4 just south of White Rock, turn onto Monterey South. Stay on Monterey South, to Potrillo Rd, where you take a right. Take this until you can turn right on Estante Rd. Follow Estante around a left turn to a pullout just past a fire hydrant on the right side. Park here and don't block the hydrant or the mailboxes. Walk the trail south 100yds, where it forks, take the trail heading right. Follow this to a "Government Property" sign, and head left on a faint trail or cross-country to the cliff top. To get to the base, scramble down the east side of the cliffs. Should take about 10 minutes.


[hide] Potrillo Cliffs : Russel Peterson, Mike Roybal, Kathy Kocon and Steve Schum Potrillo 1972



(01) Unknown 

5.11-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11-
Length: 35 feet
Description
Thin seam 5 feet left of Car Camping. Easier as you go up.

Location
Route #1 in the photo, I'm guessing. Farthest left route at the crag.

Protection
TR



(02) Car Camping with the Kids 

5.6

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.7
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This is route #2 in the LAM on-line guide.

At the start, one can traverse into the fairly deep corner from either the face on the left or from the arete on the right (not sure which is easier, but there are feet outside the arete, at least). Then follow the nice hand/fist crack up the corner. Lots of stances along the way.

Some who have TR'd this route argue that the 5.6 is sandbagged, so maybe it is a solid 5.6+. But it is a truly excellent beginner trad lead once you feel comfortable with the opening moves. This is just a guess, but I'd wager that the name of the route derives from the fact that it's not as easy as it looks from afar (anyone got any FA info?).


Location
Far to the left (west/north) end of the crag, second-to-last route from the northern end of the west cliff. Left of the prominent roof.
Approach is a scramble either along the base of the cliff or drop down through the brush and back up again.

Protection
Eats up #2-#4 camalots and/or a #11 hex.
Sufficient rock at the top for a gear anchor, but not a great one, and the nearest useable trees are a ways back from the rim. LOTS of loose gravel at the top.


[hide] (02) Car Camping with the Kids : Car Camping with the Kids, 5.6, Potrillo Cliffs, White Rock, NM



(03) Double Trouble 

5.12+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: Unknown, 1989
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.12+
Length: 35 feet
Description
Really hard roof problem with 2 chopped bolts. Really a TR boulder problem. Very height dependent.

Location
Route #3 in the photo.

Protection
TR



(04) Unknown 

5.11-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11-
Length: 35 feet
Description
Difficult/steep crack climbing leads to a 5.6 finish.

Location
Just right of the Double Trouble (obvious double roof route) buttress. Route #4 in the photo.

Protection
Gear to 2"



(05) Sleeper 

5.10+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10+
Length: 35 feet
Description
Continuous moderately difficult crack climbing.

Location
Route #5 in the photo.

Protection
TR or gear to 2"



(06) Jane 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 35 feet
Description
Climb a crack, traverse left, then climb a corner.

Location
Route #6 (same start as Tarzan) in the photo.

Protection
TR



(07) Tarzan 

5.10+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10+
Length: 35 feet
Description
Start as for Jane, then break right up steeper and more difficult crack/corner climbing.

Location
Route #7 in the photo.

Protection
TR



(08) Pieces of Eight 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
This is route #8 in the LAM on-line guide

A big step up into a layback section (crux) over a small roof problem and to easier cracks above.

Location
About 15 feet to the left of Shaky Flake on the West side.

Protection
No bolts, no anchor. Standard trad rack (set of nuts/set of cams) is sufficient. Build an anchor at the top or tie off to one of the trees (maybe pretty far back from the top).



(09) Shaky Flake 

5.10- R

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10-
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
Shaky Flake goes up the low angled slab just to the left of Fickle Fingers. Start just a few feet to the left of Fickle Fingers, with a tough move off the ground and no protection for 2/3 of the climb, climbing up the slab with thin edges and delicate flakes. You might find tiny nut placements behind a flake, but don't count on it. At the top of the slab, you can get good pro, but the difficulty doesn't exceed 5.7 from here to the top.

If this line is set as a toprope, the easiest way up is to climb Fickle Fingers for the lower 1/2, and traverse left to the top of Shaky Flake- this is probably 5.8 or 5.9, certainly easier than either of the two climbs independently.

Location
This climb is route 9 in the online miniguide
It is in the middle of the West-facing side of Potrillo, just a little up and left of a juniper right by the cliff.

Protection
A couple of cams. Possible micronut placements on the slab start?
Some stuff for an anchor, or tie off trees.



(10) Fickle Fingers 

5.10

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Beta
Climb up easy cracks and past blocks to a steep left-facing corner to where it gets obviously steep. Delicate pro and wild stemming with finger locks in the crack allow you to pass this difficult crux. Easier cracks continue from here to the top.

Where is it?
This climb is about 15' left of Gymnast and Upper Kor's, on the west-facing side of Potrillo.. It begins kind of behind a juniper right by the cliff base and follows a left-facing corner.

What to bring.
1 set cams, including small ones.
1 set nuts, including small ones.
Save some gear for an anchor, or tie off trees if you have a static line.





(11) Kor's Dog 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: Gary Clark (1st recorded ascent)
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 35 feet
Description
A left-slanting crack system. Not really desperate at all. I don't know where the name came from.

Location
Start 6 feet left of Upper Kor's. Route 11 in the photo.

Protection
TR



(12.1) Desperate (Left) 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This is the first listed variant of route #12 in the online guide.
Start up a broken crack system to a bulging block. Go around the block (1st crux, right side is easier), then aim left to gain a stance below a pair of converging cracks. Follow the flaring crack/seam on the right (2nd crux) to the top.

Desperate Left is indicated as an option in the online guide, and by Beverly (2006:208) and Jackson (2006:189-190).
It's not clear from the guide books if the hand crack immediately to the left (the route named Kor's Dog) is on or off. The online guide describes Desperate Left as following the "left-trending crack system to the top" (italics added), so I'd argue that both cracks are on-route, since they're only ~14 inches apart at the top. (But, then where does that leave Kor's Dog? Beverly does not mention KDog; Jackson's topo seems to merge KDog and Desperate)

Location
On the west-facing cliff. Start on the cracked face left of Gymnast/Upper Kor's.

Protection
Standard trad rack to 2.5"; thin nuts useful if you choose not to protect the Kor's Dog crack. Gear anchor on top.


[hide] (12.1) Desperate (Left) : Desperate (left exit) 5.8, Potrillo Cliffs, White Rock, NM



(13) Upper Kor's Crack 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: Layton Kor, 1968
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 45 feet
Description
Start by ascending a thin finger crack with a small, hand-sized pod and a triangular block at the top; a blank face on the right keeps things interesting here. About 15 feet up you gain a ledge and then continue your way left up a nice dihedral split by a thin-hands to fingers to perfect-hands crack. Crux seems to be getting into the crack above as it leans out left and overhangs ever so slightly. Very fun route and a classic at Potrillo!

Location
Begin 10 feet to the left of Lower Kor's Crack. It is route #13 in the Potrillo miniguide and shares the start with Gymnast

Protection
1 set cams (0.5 to #2 Camalot); 1 set stoppers protects the bottom section quite well.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.



(14) Gymnast 

5.8+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8+
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
Gymnast shares its beginning with Upper Kor's Crack making its way up a thin finger crack for approximately 15 feet to a large ledge. Once atop the ledge make your way right (left continues up Upper Kor’s Crack) where you intersect with the twin-cracks second half of Lower Kor’s Crack. It is easier to use a combination of these upper cracks; if you have bigger hands, the left will likely suit you well whereas smaller hands may be more suited for the right crack.

Location
Shares a common start with Upper Kor’s Crack, which begins approximately 10 feet to the left of Lower Kor’s Crack. Gymnast is route #14 in the Potrillo miniguide

Protection
1 set cams to #3 Camalot; 1 set stoppers.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.



(15) Lower Kor's Crack 

5.9+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: LA Mountaineers (aid), First Free Ascent: Layton Kor, 1968
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
Start behind the juniper, delicately move up slick thin finger crack. The crux is about 6 feet up, and can be protected with cams and an attentive belay, or be bold. Half way up the cliff, you'll reach a big ledge. On the FFA, Kor went left, to Upper Kor's Crack (5.9), but continuing straight up on Gymnast (5.8) is the most obvious choice.

Attention: this crack will eat your cams if you let them walk in. 2 are stuck in there, and have been for years.

The original 5.9 rating is a bit of a sandbag, as with many "5.9"s Layton Kor put up in the western U.S. Clark's guide calls this 5.10d- which is an overestimate in my opinion this climb is easier than every 5.10d, 10c, or 10b at the Playground and the Old New Place. The difficulty is very likely subjective to the size of your fingers (bigger is probably better) and your confidence in trusting your feet in the slick corner.

Location
Just left of the point of the cliff, Lower Kor's is the thin finger crack starting behind the juniper.
It is route #15 in the Potrillo miniguide

Protection
Cams to 2". You might place a nut too perhaps.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.



(16) Dream of White Gerbils 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: Unknown, 1989
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 35 feet
Description
The face route just left of Fool on the Hill. Climb an orange face past 4 hangerless bolts.

Location
Just left of Fool on the Hill.

Protection
TR



(17) Fool on the Hill 

5.12

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: Unknown, 1989
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.12
Length: 35 feet
Description
Defunct sport route. This climbs the arete just left of Pillars of Hercules. Very thin and difficult climbing, not particularly sustained, though. Hangerless/chopped bolts.

Location
Just left of Pillars of Hercules.

Protection
TR



(18) Pillars of Hercules (left var.) 

5.7

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.7+
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This is route #18 in the on-line guide.
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This left start variation requires one first to mantle onto the left side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving left off this boulder, which involves pulling over an awkward slot by reaching deeply into some wedged flakes. Feet are thin here.
This leads to a stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left crack seems to protect better. This is a great beginner trad lead, once you feel comfortable with the low crux.


Location
This is the leftmost (westernmost) route on the south wall.

Protection
The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here might land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.

Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.




[hide] (18) Pillars of Hercules (left var.) : Pillars of Hercules, left variation, 5.7, Potrillo Cliffs, White Rock, NM



(18) Pillars of Hercules (right var.) 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This is route #18 in the on-line guide, which calls it "The most classic and popular route at Potrillo, with a wide variety of climbing techniques in a short distance."
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This right start variation requires one first to mantle onto the right side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving off the right side of this boulder, up an awkward crack and around a little roof split by great hand cracks. These moves can involve a combination of jamming and stemming, or even try facing out and backstepping.
This leads to a stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left crack seems to protect better.

Location
This is the leftmost (westernmost) route on the south wall.

Protection
The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here will very possibly land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.

Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.



[hide] (18) Pillars of Hercules (right var.) : Pillars of Hercules, right variation, 5.8, Potrillo Cliffs, White Rock, NM



(19) Unknown Arete 

5.9 R

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
The arete between Pillars of Hercules and Cindy's Chimney is a fun toprope problem, or a heady lead.

Climb the arete to a diagonal crack (#0 TCU) and an undercling move to an obvious horizontal ledge. Last pro here is a red camalot size, or maybe very big gear (6" piece) behind the block to the left. Pull crimpy moves on the arete (crux), don't fall, and keep going to a big ledge about 9' below the top. A 1" crack on this ledge provides a final piece of pro before a thin face boulder problem to the topout.

Location
This is the arete between PIllars and Cindy's, or climb #19 in Gary Clarks online Potrillo guide

Protection
Cams from very small (#0 TCU) to 1.5" (red Camalot). #5 or #6 Camalot or BigBro optional.
And stuff for an anchor if you hadn't pre-built one, or use static cord to tie off the tree.



(20) Cindy's Chimney 

5.7

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: Cindy(?)
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.7
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This is route #20 in the on-line guide.
Start up a crack system, through some blocky stuff, and enter a nice stemming dihedral with stable stances; the chimney running up the back has great hand/fist (or wider) cracks. An excellent beginner trad lead or TR for total greenhorns.

Location
The second dihedral in from the far left (west) end of the south cliff.

Protection
Great stances on lead, sew it up with medium cams & hexes.

Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.



[hide] (20) Cindy's Chimney : Cindy's Chimney, 5.7, Potrillo Cliffs, White Rock, NM



(21) Call of the Crane 

5.10a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
Call of the Crane climbs the prow to the right of Cindy's Chimney and to the left of the offwidth crack Chuckwalla.
Start with moves along an intermittent crack/seam with decent ledges to a horizontal crack below a vertical/slightly overhanging face with no pro. Place a cam or two here before committing to the headwall of the prow-- crux face climbing for 8-10 feet or so-- then you'll reach more low-angle terrain and a finger/thin hands crack providing welcome pro again.

Location
This climb is about 6' to the right of Cindy's Chimney.

Protection
A few cams to 2", and some nuts.
Anchor off static rope off the tree near the corner of Potrillo, or build your own with gear (recommended).



(22) Chuckwalla 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This is route #22 in the on-line guide. As noted therein, a chuckwalla is a "large lizard with the interesting defence mechanism of crawling into a crack and inflating itself."
Start under the large, thrillingly wedged, guillotine-shaped chockstone and work up into the chimney. When in doubt of where to go, just recall the route's namesake and stuff your self in there. When the chimney narrows to the point where your head starts getting wedged, move out of the fissure onto the face to the right and follow the dihedral to the top.

Location
Near the left-middle of the southern cliff.

Protection
Standard nuts and cams to #4. A #5 cam, or even larger, could be useable, but is not essential.

Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the trees anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.



[hide] (22) Chuckwalla : Chuckwalla, 5.8, Potrillo Cliffs, White Rock, NM



(23) Chuckwalla Right 

5.10 PG13

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
Just right of the wide crack/chimney of Chuckwalla, is a fun little face climb. Start at the lieback flake just right of the Chuckwalla slot, or a little farther right (as for Belly Flop). It's contrived, so there isn't an exact rule for the start, but the thin face near the top is quite fun, which has a few thin moves between one- and two-finger pockets.

This is unnamed climb #22 in the online guides, but at least one Potrillo climber has referred to it as Chuckwalla Right which is more descriptive and better than another anonymous climb.

I didn't think it was as tough as .10c in White Rock should be (it's rated .10c in the guides).

Protection
Toprope from an anchor as set for Chuckwalla. Or if you're bold, lead with gear, mainly smaller stuff.



(24) Belly Flop 

5.9-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9-
Length: 40 feet
Description
Belly Flop seeks out the obvious hand crack that is left of the finish for Belly Up.

Start 6' right of Chuckwalla (the obvious wide crack with the flake), or about 6' left of Belly Up and Grandstanding in a thin crack, which ends 15' up. Next you'll need to run it out on a featured slab (easier than it initially looks; but heady for a marginal 5.9 leader) to gain the obvious vertical hand crack near the top. This hand crack at the top is steep and fun and well-protected by large cams.

Leaders looking for a well-protected 5.8/5.9 might do well to begin as for Belly Up, then step left and finish with the hand crack finish of Belly Flop, which is better protected than the seam that is the regular finish for Belly Up.

I never did find a "belly flop" move.

Protection
Rack up to a #4 camalot. A 2-bolt anchor set for Belly Up can be shared with this climb.



(25) Belly Up 

5.7

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.7
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This is route #25 in the on-line guide.

Start in an easy broken crack system that is shared with Grandstanding (a 5.4 that goes to the right). The crux is in the top half, surmounting the fairly thin, bulgy face that forms the right side of a dihedral with a thin, fairly dirty seam in back (too thin for fingers).

Location
Middle of the south cliff.

Protection
Small-Medium cams below, but have some small nuts ready for the thin seam at the crux.
This line possesses two camo'd bolts for a top anchor (as of Feb. 2008). One can also use these bolts to TR Belly Flop (acknowledging the slight possible pendulum if you fall off Belly Flop).


[hide] (25) Belly Up : Belly Up, 5.7, Potrillo Cliffs, White Rock, NM



(26) Grandstanding 

5.4

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.5
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
This is route #26 in the on-line guide.
Start up a broken crack system that is shared with Belly Up (a 5.7 that continues up straight). Traverse up and right to the top of a low pillar that gives access to a chimney behind another higher pillar to the right. A set of jammed flakes marks the top of the chimney. Once on top of the big pillar, up easy ground to the top.
Despite the easy rating, this actually isn't a great climb to TR with a total greenhorn/gym climber; there's something about the chimney that puts people off.....

Location
Middle of the south cliff. Basically shares the start with Belly Up. Jackson's 2006 guide indicates some harder alternate starts that can be climbed to the right.


Protection
Not far off the ground you can clip a fixed nut with a swaged wire that looks like it's been hammered on pretty hard.
Hanging a loose sling over the sharp flake at the top of the chimney is a shaky proposition at best, but it's really about the only pro going on in that wide crack, and this practice is noted as being the norm in the LAM on-line guide.
Easy enough to set a TR anchor at the top with gear.


[hide] (26) Grandstanding : Grandstanding, 5.4, Potrillo Cliffs, White Rock, NM



(27) Left Cave Route 

5.9+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9+
Length: 45 feet
Description
This route ascends a tasty hand-crack (big hands) out the left side of the big cave. Begin by gaining a large bouldery protrusion and get into an excellent section of wide hands to surmount the roof. After the roof the grade eases significantly. Great protection abounds as you climb a left-trending crack above. It is possible to toprope the bottom section of this route from an anchor set at the terminus of Cave Route Center.

Location
Climbs out the left side of the big cave.

Protection
1 set cams to #3 Camalot, 1 set stoppers.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.


[hide] (27) Left Cave Route : Enjoying the large-hands section of Cave Route Left.



(28) Cave Route Center 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 45 feet
Description
Starting in the back of the large cave, work your way up and out the mouth using a variety of chimney moves, full-body squeezes, fist and hand jams, and good ol' grunts. Feels a bit awkward and strenuous for the grade, but it's fun. After the mouth the grade eases significantly. *Caution: It is common practice to toprope this climb. Beware that a fall within the depths of the cave could result in a ground-fall as you swing outward.

Location
Begin in the back of the cave.

Protection
1 rack cams to #4 Camalot; 1 set stoppers. Opportunities for placing Big Bros and larger cams exist, but aren't necessary.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.



(29) Right Cave Route 

5.11c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11c
Length: 45 feet
Description
This route begins with powerful moves up a series of finger cracks - some shallow, some finger-eaters. One can find an excellent knee-bar and subsequent no-hands-rest before making the final moves out the roof. After the roof, this route joins Cave Route Center and the grade eases significantly.

Location
Climbs out the right-hand side of the cave; joins Cave Route Center after approximately 20 feet.

Protection
1 set cams 0.4 Camalot to #3, 1 set stoppers.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.


[hide] (29) Right Cave Route : Getting down to the business of Cave Route Right, March 5th, 2006.



(30) Ardeidae Arete 

5.8 R

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
This climb is the arete just right of the cave. Start on easy blocks to the its right, and move left to the arete between a giant hueco to the left and Heron's Fissure to the right. A single piece of pro is probably available right before the hard part of the climb starts... starting up the upper portion of the arete... then likely nothing else.

Ardeidae... is a family of heron's and other birds... thus the name.. as the route is next to Heron's Fissure... yeah... you got it.

Location
This is the arete just right of the cave, and left of Heron's Fissure

Protection
Not very much... this climb is probably best to toprope.



(31) Heron's Fissure 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: Joy Heron 1968
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
Heron's Fissure is the right leaning crack just to the right of the cave, that passes through the huecoed face.
Moves are fun stemming, and the crack is wide hands to fists and provides good pro the whole way. The big huecos are neat, and not as positive as they appear from below.

Because the bottom 15' of this climb is very easy blocky scrambling... this climb feels shorter than most at Potrillo.

Original rating? 5.7
Current rating in guidebooks? 5.8+

Location
This is the crack just to the right of the obvious cave.
It's climb #31 in Gary Clark's online Potrillo guide

Protection
Cams from 1 to 4".
Save some pro to build an anchor at the top, or tie off trees with static rope.



(32) Porky's Bad Luck 

5.6

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Potrillo Cliffs
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.6
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
This route is #32 in the on-line guide.

Start inside a deep triangular alcove that narrows to a chimney. Move out to the face on the right when the chimney narrows, and climb fairly easy blocky ground to the rim.
Not terribly exciting, and, despite the easy rating, this actually isn't a great climb for a total greenhorn/gym climber; there's something about the chimney that puts people off.....



Location
This line is the farthest right (east) on the south wall of the crag.

Protection
Pro is a little awkward throughout, but it is a tolerable beginner trad lead. Easy enough to TR with a gear anchor on top.


[hide] (32) Porky's Bad Luck : Porky's Bad Luck, 5.6, Potrillo Cliffs, White Rock, NM