www.mountainproject.com

The Doughnut Shop


New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock
Latitude: 35.8164  Longitude: -106.1897 
Description
This is a 50 foot southeast facing Basalt crag with a handful of entertaining sport,crack and mixed routes. At one time the hangers were stripped for unknown reasons, but some have been replaced, and more will soon be rehangered. There is guaranteed to be no crowds here, as this wall is long forgotten and abandoned but still offers some fun climbing.

The original guide to the Doughnut Shop by Samet & Jett has been shared thanks to the authors and the Los Alamos Mountaineers:
http://lamountaineers.org/Doughnut_Shop/Doughnut_Shop.pdf

Getting There
Approach same as for the Playground. Once at the Playground, head north and cross onto a talus field for roughly 100 yards to locate the leftmost route Suckin' Custard which is a 4 bolt hangerless leaning face.



Fat Cops On Swivel Chairs 

5.10c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Doughnut Shop
FA: Cameron Burns, Carlo Torres, and Luke Laser
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10c
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Description
The crux is near the bottom. Climb a thin Playground type crack with small stoppers and then up to a pleasurable three bolt arete to a two bolt anchor which is shared with Greasy Hairnets.

Location
This is located on the north end of the wall and is about 40 feet to the right of Little Debby's Ding Dong.

Protection
Thin stoppers and quickdraws. 2 bolt anchor.



Gordon Lightfoot 

5.6

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Doughnut Shop
FA: ???
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This is a short but enjoyable right-facing dihedral, low angle finger crack. The crux is near the bottom.

Location
This is located about 25 feet to the right of Suckin' Custard.

Protection
Stoppers, Aliens, and a # 2 Camalot. 2 bolt chained anchor.



Little Debby's Ding Dong 

5.10a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Doughnut Shop
FA: Cameron Burns, Carlo Torres, and Peter Gram
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10a
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Description
Climb a bouldery hand/fist crack to a nicely edged and pocketed face above. The crux is between bolts 2 and 3.

Location
This route starts approximately 40 feet to the right of Gordon Lightfoot.

Protection
#1, #2, #3 Camalots for the bottom and quickdraws for the top to a 2 bolt anchor