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The Playground


New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock
Latitude: 35.8164  Longitude: -106.1912 
Description
The Playground is a 60 foot south-facing basalt cliff. Numerous moderate to difficult crack and face climbs ascend the cliff. Routes at this area are not bolted (by agreement), so be sure to bring your gear to lead. While route bolts are strictly verboten, anchor bolts are allowed. However, the last anchor bolts to be installed (over Beginner's Hand Jam) were chopped and few currently exist, so many climbs require trad gear to establish anchors.

Climbs are numbered from left to right with numbers as in 'Jemez Rock' and as shown in the beta photos.

Getting There
To get to the Playground from NM state road 4, turn south on Rover blvd. After about 100 yards, take a left on Meadow lane. Follow this street (it will slowly curve south) passing the turnoff for the Overlook, and continue to 719 Meadow Lane. Park near by, being careful not to block mailboxes or driveways (several residents have complained in the past). Take the public access trail between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. From here, turn right and walk toward the rim of the canyon. Follow the rim for 300 yards and locate an approach gully with a 30 foot basalt tower on it's left side. At the bottom of this gully is the Playground.


The Playground : Playground, far left side. Photo by Wa3lt.
(01) Unknown 5.10a
(02) Open Project 5.??
(03) Mononucleosis 5.11d
(04) Burnt Crack 5.10d
(05) Unrelenting Nines 5.11
(06) Unnamed 5.12a for hard start shown
(07) T2 Flake 5.10c
(08) First Strike 5.12c
(09) Original Horak Route 5.10a


The Playground : Playground, middle left side. Photo by Wa3lt
(09) Original Horak Route 5.10a
(10) Luke and Carlo's route 5.12d
(11) Zander Zigzag 5.10d
(12) Texas 5.8
(13) Flying A Buttress 5.12a
(14) Flying A 5.11a
(15) The Playgrounder 5.12b
(16) Unnamed 5.9+
(17) Unknown 5.11b
(18) Unnamed 5.10a
(19) The Cheeks 5.11b
(20) Unknown 5.11c


The Playground : Playground, middle right side. Photo by Wa3lt
(19) The Cheeks 5.11b
(20) Unknown 5.11c
(21) Vulture Roof 5.11b/c
(22) Moment of Inertia 5.10c
(24) Mr. Foster's Lead 5.9+
(25) Unknown 5.10d
(26) Black Wall 5.10c
(27) Unnamed 5.10d
(28) Cactus Climb 5.10b
(29) Face Variation 5.11a
(30) Beginner's Hand Jam 5.9


The Playground : Playground, right end. Photo by Wa3lt
(30) Beginner's Hand Jam 5.9
(31) Advanced Start 5.11a
(32) Upper Left Roof 5.9
(33) Fingertip Layback 5.10d
(34) Barlow's Buttress 5.10
(35) Battle of the Bulge 5.11b/c
(36) Flakey Nine 5.9+
(37) Unnamed 5.11a
(38) Blow Hole 5.10c
(39) Repo Man 5.12b
(40) Moon Dog 5.10b


The Playground : Far left side of the Playground. Someone with photoshop should work on adding the numbers (which are missing from this set of photos - and I don't remember well enough to accurately label them)


The Playground : Far right side of the Playground. Beginner's hand jam is the route on the far left side of the photo.

Someone should put numbers on these, I do not have the software or memory to do it.


The Playground : Middle-left portion of the Playground. 4th route from the left (including variations) is Texas. Someone with Photoshop should label these.


The Playground : Middle-right portion of the Playground. Sorry about the lack of numbering, someone with photoshop (and a good memory) should re-label these.



(01) Unknown 

5.10-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10-
Length: 35 feet
Description
Wide, wide crack on the far left side of the crag. Offwidthy goodness!

Location
Far left side of the Playground.

Protection
Big stuff, or TR.



(02) Open Project 

5.14

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.14
Length: 1 pitch, 35 feet
Description
The farthest left, short, overhanging and really nasty looking face climb at the Playground. Luke Laeser and I spent many an afternoon attempting this TR problem and never came close to linking moves together. There are, however, holds. Mostly crappy crimpy underclings.

And someone will do it someday.

Location
Far left side of the playground.

Protection
TR problem.



(03) Mononucleosis 

5.11+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11+
Length: 55 feet
Description
Thin seam with pockets just left of Burnt Crack.

Location
5 feet left of Burnt Crack

Protection
TR



(04) Burnt Crack 

5.10d

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10c/d
Length: 50 feet
Description
Start in the shallow dihedral a few feet left of Unrelenting Nines with some thin crack moves to a nice, small ledge about 12 feet up. A few easier moves through obvious terrain lead to finger crack. Tiny gear and thin moves lead up to some better holds and big stemming. A few more steep moves with tricky gear to the top. Use the bolt anchor for Unrelenting Nines.

Location
Start a few feet to the left of Unrelenting Nines in a shallow dihedral. This route does not see much traffic.

Protection
.3 BD camalot through #2 BD camalot and then BD C3s and small wires above.


(04) Burnt Crack : Burnt Crack is, I believe, the yellow line in this photo. Blue line shows (05) Unrelenting Nines. Look closely and you can see the leg of Roger Rumsey in this photo. (Note, it's entirely possible I have the name of this route incorrectly identified.) Photo by Brian Quiter.



(05) Unrelenting Nines 

5.11c/d

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: ???
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11b/c
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Description
Start with thin balancy boulder moves up to a bomber jug and then continue up a two sided overhanging finger crack to a good hand ledge. The crack then turns to a single crack that starts with hands and then into strenuous fingers to a powerful lieback directional switch (crux) to more thin fingers out the top. Mega classic!

Location
This is the obvious overhanging splitter on the south end of the wall.

Protection
A #4 Camalot for the bottom after the boulder moves, a good selection of stoppers and some small to medium Aliens for the rest. A #2 Camalot is good to protect the hand section before the crux.


(05) Unrelenting Nines : Starting at the Y-shaped feature at the bottom of the photo, up past the double crack system, and into the finger crack above; Unrelenting Nines kicks ass.


(05) Unrelenting Nines : Chopped bolts at the top of U9s, photo taken 8/1/09



(06) Unnamed 

5.10 PG13

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: unknown, 1970s
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Description
It's too bad the next shallow corner right of Unrelenting Nines is kind of sandy and dirty, because the climbing is pretty fun with good exposure, and it's another lighter 5.10 at the Playground. The dirtiness is probably largely due to lack of traffic, which is probably because the guidebooks emphasize the 5.12 rating rather than the 5.10 variation.

It is easiest to begin in the big corner to the right and traverse in along a big flake/rail, then make moves up a featured arete to gain the shallow corner. At the top, the features in this corner peter out- face climb using a flake to the right for a couple moves before exit. For the 5.12a grade, use the direct start in a seam on the face to the left.

There are a few places for gear, but expect 5.10 moves with the last gear placement below your feet. The 5.12 variation reportedly protects well enough for a 5.12 leader.


Location
This is the next climbable corner right of Unrelenting Nines, near the left end of the Playground. The hard start (12a) is about 6' right of Nines; the easier start is in the next inside corner to the right, under an alcove.

Protection
Cams to 2", and nuts, including RPs.



(07) T2 Flake 

5.10c R

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: ???
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10c
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Description
Start by hopping up on a block to a left-angling flake to a giant pocket which you can heel hook, then continue up a right-angling thin seam up a leaning dihedral that is tricky to get good gear placements (crux), then surmount the end of the overhanging dihedral to exit.

Location
This route is located about 15 feet to the north (right) of Unrelenting Nines.

Protection
small to medium stoppers and cams, and some huevos. Anchor with gear.


(07) T2 Flake : George Perkins - stepping up to the scare.



(08) First Strike 

5.12

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: Maybe D'Antonio?
Type: Trad, Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.12
Length: 55 feet
Description
The route that started it all - the great White Rock bolt war of the early 90's, that is. Climb up thin crimps just 10 feet left of the Original Horak Route. There are 2 chopped bolts on this route - the bolts, in fact, that eventually led to the White Rock Bolting Agreement.

Location
Just left of the Original Horak Route. Route #8 in the Crag Photo.

Protection
It's a TR now. And it wasn't ever a good sport route. But in a way, it was a good thing, in that it let LA climbers really sit down and decide where and how they wanted bolts in White Rock. We're all better off for it, and it's a great example, IMO, of people putting aside their differences for the common good.



(09) Original Horak Route 

5.10a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: Horak (Lou or Carl)?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
Bouldery start up a blank face with a single pocket. Grab a ledge ~12ft up, swing left, then stand up into a weird balance position at the start of the crack. Follow the crack up and right to the belay ledge.

Location
Starts on the blank face 20ft left of Texas. Belay from the top and walk off (to the left or right).

Protection
No bolts, no anchor. Standard light trad rack (set of nuts, set of cams, and draws).


(09) Original Horak Route : Finishing the bouldery crux of the route and about to head into easier ground.



(10) Luke and Carlo's route 

5.12d

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: Luke Laeser or Carlo Torres, TR
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.12d
Length: 55 feet
Description
This is the hardest (completed) route at the Playground, albeit kinda contrived. Climb straight up the face between Original Horak route and Zander Zig Zag, without using the crack or arete.

Location
Between Zander Zig Zag and Original Horak Route. Route #10 in the Photo.

Protection
TR



(11) Zander Zigzag 

5.10d PG13

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: Mark Zander
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10d
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
Begin as for Texas, then move left into an overhanging dihedral instead of going up the Texas flake. The crux is one or two moves- lieback to a big reach to an incut edge overhead. The pro is not ideal. Easier stemming from there to the top.

Location
Next corner left of Texas

Protection
Small stuff, including TCUs and RPs, as well as some larger cams. Save some gear for an anchor.



(12) Texas 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
The easiest route at the cliff, but still exciting. Obtain the top of a short column, then layback up to the base of "Texas". The second layback section (up to the right and over) is the crux of the route.

Location
A more or less obvious flake ~20ft up, roughly resembling the bottom part of the State of Texas, marks the start of the route. Belay from the top and walk off (to the left or right).

Protection
No bolts, no anchor. Standard light trad rack (set of nuts, set of cams, and draws).


(12) Texas : Minesh Bacrania messing with Texas.



(13) Flying A Buttress 

5.12a X

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.12a
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
Flying A Buttress is a fun thin face toprope problem, taking on the buttress and face left of Flying A and right of Texas. It is rather sustained, with about the first 30' of continuous face climbing at approx. hard 5.11 with a short section with one or two harder moves.

A bouldery start with sidepull holds and small crimps gets you to a stance above the small bulge 8' up- this is a fun boulder problem in of itself. Thin crimping past the small roof and you can grab a larger flat-topped ledge. Mantle-ing onto this ledge is tricky, then a weird move to more crimps, lets you reach the thinnest and cruxiest section of the climb (in my opinion); bear down on tiny edges for 2 or 3 moves on the slightly overhanging face. Better horizontal holds are above, and the hard part of the climbing is done after 30' up.

Obviously the "Flying A crack" is considered "off" throughout the climb but for the most part moving over to it is not too tempting, so it's not unreasonably contrived.

The line as shown in 'Jemez Rock' is a little off- the start should be independent and just left of the chimney that is the typical start for Flying A.

(I toproped this route -as does virtually everybody else- and I think the only place you could get get any meaningful pro is the horizontal crack under the roof about 12' up. I think if you fell at what I think is the hardest part, you would deck from about 25' up, maybe landing on rocks. The climbing gets easier above, but there are still no more gear placements until almost the very top. I think one would be better off soloing vs leading.)

Protection
Toprope, from the 2-bolt anchor for Flying A.



(14) Flying A 

5.11-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: unknown, 1970s
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11-
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
A White Rock mini classic.

Stem up the funky shallow chimney using a reachy crimp with no-good footholds (crux?). From here, a few feet of easy section, step left and follow a thin finger crack with fun moves requiring good footwork on the face to the left, or lieback, with TCUs or nuts for pro in the thin finger crack. Committing to a thin section just after the corner changes to the left side is probably the psychological crux for the leader.

Flying A eats up small gear, but the stances to place it from are sometimes strenuous.

Location
Start 10' right of Texas in a A-shaped chimney 8 feet high. (This climb is the next crack right of the obvious Texas flake).

Protection
1-2 ea. cams from smallest to #0.3 camalot or equivalent (Two of the #0 TCU/#0 C3 camalot size is recommended.)
1 ea. #0.4 and #0.5 camalot
1 set wired nuts
No need for any bigger cams.
A 2-bolt anchor can be found on the rim just below the gigantic boulder.


(14) Flying A : Red C3. Small gear on this route. Nuts protect it better but are harder to see and place. April 2009. Photo by Hundy.



(15) The Playgrounder 

5.12

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: Luke Laeser, I think.
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.12
Length: 55 feet
Description
Climb straight up the face 10 feet right of Flying A. Actually really cool.

Location
Route #15 in the Photo.

Protection
TR



(16) Unnamed 

5.9+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: unknown, 1970s
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9+
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Description
Start in the first place that seems reasonable to the right of Flying A, stand on good ledges and soon gain a big flake and traverse right. Above looms a flaring slot- moving through this is the crux- look to place cams at the top of the slot. Follow the thin crack above, with easier climbing with more footholds, but less obvious gear placements for 15' or so. At the top, the crack widens to hand size, and good gear can be placed again.
It's a worthwhile easier climb (for the Playground). Tough for Playground 5.9, but easy for Playground 5.10


Location
This climb is about 20' to the right of Texas, or about 10' right of Flying A. Identify a flaring slot about 2/3 of the way up.

Protection
1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3".


(16) Unnamed : Mark Schraad heading up the "Unnamed (thin crack to the right of Flying A)." July 29, 2008.



(17) Unknown 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 55 feet
Description
Climb the thin crack to a weird layback move out the bulbous roof, then straight up some (usually dirty) cracks.

Location
Route #17 in the Photo.

Protection
TR



(18) Unnamed 

5.10a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: unknown, 1970s
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
The low big black roof is the most obvious feature at the Playground. The easiest passage through this feature is this unnamed climb, which passes through an A shaped slot in the roof (the 2nd from the left end of the roof); however, this climb sees little traffic. If the grunge was cleaned up by more traffic, this would be a pretty good climb.

A few tricky moves down low reach a rest below the roof. Chimney and stem your way through the black roof, which is a fun and intriguing crux. Above, you can angle to the left and head up steep juggy cracks, or angle to the right and head up easy juggy cracks. Expect dirtiness and loose rubble on either variation.

Location
The low big black roof about 20' up is the most obvious feature at the Playground and is right in the middle of it. The easiest passage through this feature is the 2nd crack going through this, near the left end of the roof, through an A shaped slot.

This is #18 in Jemez Rock and the Beta Photo.

Protection
1 each cams and nuts. Save some gear to build an anchor at the top.



(19) The Cheeks 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 55 feet
Description
Up the farthest right crack in the bulbous roof.

Location
Route #19 in the Photo.

Protection
TR



(20) Unknown 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11b/c
Length: 55 feet
Description
Excellent route.

Starts just right of the Cheeks on a prow/arete, or farther right underneath Vulture Roof then make a very awkward traverse left under the roof. Probably better pro going this way, both options about the same difficulty. Like most at the Playground, the first 15' is tough, to a good rest stance at the left end of the Vulture Roof. Then follow the finger crack/seam straight up, first passing through a bulge (crux), to easier climbing above, with a few helpful mono- and two-finger pockets along the way.

Location
20 feet left of Vulture Roof. #20 in the Photo.

Protection
TR



(21) Vulture Roof 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 55 feet
Description
20 feet of thin crack and face moves lead to a strenuous roof. Height dependent.

Location
Left of Tree Climb. #21 in the Photo.

Protection
TR



(22) Moment of Inertia 

5.10c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.10c/d
Length: 55 feet
Description
Climb the slick black dihedral just right of Vulture roof.

Location
Right of Vulture roof, left of Tree Climb. Route #22.

Protection
TR



(23) Tree Climb 

5.10c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: unknown, 1970s
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10b/c
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Description
Stem across or chimney between 2 columns to begin this climb- this is a little to the left of straight below the dead tree (a 5.10+ seam start begins just right of this chimney). Angle up and right for a ways following strenuous cracks that are shared with Mr. Fosters Lead. Near the top, bust out left on pockets through slightly overhanging ground (crux) to the tree. This finish is somewhat contrived but fun, and on lead it is more logical to stay in the crack directly above and finish as for Mr. Fosters Lead.

Note that if you follow strictly the line shown in "Jemez Rock", you'll wind up on 5.12 terrain.

Location
Identify the dead/dying tree on the ledge in the center of the Playground. Tree Climb follows the easiest route up to this.

Protection
1 set nuts, 1 set cams.. up to #4 camalot. Tricams might be useful.
A 2-bolt anchor for Mr. Foster/Tree climb is just right (climber's right) of the dead tree, which is no longer a safe anchor for this route.



(24) Mr. Foster's Lead 

5.9+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: Chris Foster
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9+
Length: 70 feet
Description
Start by climbing parallel cracks to gain a ledge 15 feet up. Continue climbing a mix of crack and face holds to the right of a dead Juniper tree at the cliff top. Crux moves are gaining the first ledge, then again about 2/3 of the way up the route.

Location
Third route to the left of Beginner's Hand Jam, look for a dead Juniper at the top - the route is just to the right.

Protection
1 set cams to #3 Camalot, 1 set nuts
A 2-bolt anchor for Mr. Foster/Tree climb is just right (climber's right) of the dead tree, which is no longer a safe anchor for this route.



(25) Unknown 

5.10+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.10+
Length: 55 feet
Description
Up the same start as Black Wall, then left and up over the slick bulge. Follow the left-slanting seam, then to the top. Straight over the bulge is 5.11ish.

Location
Just left of Black Wall. #24 in my guide , #25 in Beverly and the Beta Photo.

Protection
TR



(26) Black Wall 

5.10c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
Rated 5.9 in the D. Jackson "Rock Climbing NM" book and 5.10c in the J.M. Beverly "Jemez Rock" book, I'd have to say it's somewhere in the middle of those two ratings.
This is a nice but not often climbed route that starts about 20 feet left of Cactus Climb.
Start with moderate moves off the ground on a small rounded prow to a good stance below a tiny roof. Pull over the tiny roof using the finger crack and small but positive edges on the face on both sides of the crack (crux) into the shallow dihedral above. Stem your way to the top using the tiny crack for pro to big jugs to exit onto a large ledge.

This route doesn't see much traffic and is often dirty because it seems it is a natural drainage for rain run-off. A good strategy is to talk your friend into leading it first so he can clean it up a bit for you.

Location
Start in dark rock about 20 feet left of Cactus Climb. Look for the shallow dihedral up high. Belay from above on the large ledge and walk off. This route #26 in Wa3lt's beta photo.

Protection
Doubles of tiny, small and medium cams (up to .5 camalot) along with small wires. WC Superlight Rocks are perfect for this route. One of the bolted anchors at the Playground is at the top of this route. Super long slings or static rope will allow you to clip the bolts and extend the rope carabiners to the edge. Otherwise you'll get some drag and maybe knock some little rocks off the ledge.



(28) Cactus Climb 

5.10b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: Carl & Lou Horak, 1971(?)
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Description
Tricky moves off the ground are passed by stemming/liebacking to a bomber hold up and right. Cruise straight up easy 5.7-ish climbing of the next 2/3 of the climb to another thin section where the crack narrows to fingers. A 2' foot roofs bar progress to the top, however these are passed by finding hidden undercling/lieback holds and a single big move for the topout jug which you know has to be good (crux). Finding pro at the crux moves is somewhat tricky, however, small nuts or thin finger cams can be placed with creativity and care. It is also possible to escape left 2/3 of the way up and avoid the crux.

Location
The shallow corner 10' left of the splitter crack (Beginner's Hand Jam). The namesake cactus used to reside on the first ledge 12' up, but it looks like it will never grow back.

Protection
Bring 1 set cams to 2", 1 set wired nuts.
A 2-bolt anchor for Cactus Climb, reachable from the very top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.



(28) Cactus Climb : Cactus Climb and BHJ.
Blue = Cactus Climb (as per guidebooks)
Light Blue = easier variations to Cactus Climb (~5.9?)
Red = BHJ (5.9)
White = Face Variation (5.11-)
Yellow = Advanced Start (5.11-)
Purple = easier(?) finish to BHJ




(29) Face Variation 

5.11-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.10d
Length: 55 feet
Description
Climb Cactus Climb or HandJam for 15 feet to the large ledge, then up the face between them, without using either crack. Contrived.

Location
Between Cactus Climb and Beginner's Hand Jam. #28 in my guide , #29 in Beverly and the Beta Photo.

Protection
TR



(30) Beginner's Hand Jam 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: Carl Horak & Lou Horak, 1971 or '72?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
The best route here at this grade. Perfect hands for ~20ft to a ledge, then small hands to fingers on increasingly thinner ground to the belay ledge.

Location
Find the perfect hand crack towards the right hand side of the cliff. Belay from the top and walk off (to the right).

Protection
No bolts, a 2-bolt anchor [is sometimes] found on the ledge. Standard light trad rack (set of nuts, set of cams).


(30) Beginner's Hand Jam : Despite the name, near the top the route is a nice finger crack.



(31) Advanced Start 

5.11-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11-
Length: 55 feet
Description
Sharp, painful crack right of BHJ, then traverse left to rejoin.

Location
Just right of Beginner's Hand Jam. #30 in my guide , #31 in Beverly and the Beta Photo.

Protection
Pro to 2".
A 2-bolt anchor, found on the ledge, is no longer present.



(32) Upper Left Roof 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: unknown, 1970s
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Description
The first half of the climb ascends big ledges with positive holds in the huge right-facing corner. The climb steepens midway up- use positive horizontal holds just right of the crack. Continue to nearly below the high roof, which now appears larger than it did below. Traverse left under the roof, and stuff some gear in the finger crack overhead. Committing to the highstep/lieback moves past this roof provides the crux of the route, but soon you'll reach the thank-god exit jugs on the ledge at the top of the route.

This, and Beginner's Hand Jam are the most popular 5.9s at the Playground, I think.

The Fingertip Lieback variation (#33) begins in the next thin crack to the right. It's rated 10d, and is a fun committing lieback which joins the Upper Left Roof route midway up. It is protectable with small nuts at its crux, then small cams, but placing gear on this variation is difficult to do from the liebacking stances with poor feet.

You can also finish the route through the next crack to the right to exit the high roof. This is reachy and probably about 5.10d?

Location
Toward the right side of the Playground, a prominent row of 3 high roofs way up high bars easy access to the top. Upper Left Roof follows the prominent right-facing corner that is below the leftmost of these roofs. This climb is the 2nd crack right of the splitter Beginners Hand Jam handcrack.

Protection
Rack of cams and nuts to 3". Gear placements are abundant throughout the climb.

A 2-bolt anchor for Upper Left Roof was re-installed, down on the ledge.


(32) Upper Left Roof : Getting ready to deal with the roof. January 2008. Photo by Bill Geist.



(33) Fingertip Layback 

5.10+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10d
Length: 55 feet
Description
Up the thin crack to a small overhang, then join Upper Left Roof.

Location
Just left of Barlow's Buttress. Route #32 in my guide , #33 in Beverly and the Beta Photo.

Protection
RPs, small cams.
Use the re-installed 2-bolt anchor for Upper Left Roof, down just below the ledge.



(34) Barlow's Buttress 

5.10+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: Dave Barlow
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10+
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Description
Barlow's Buttress is the center crack approaching the high roofs near the right side of the Playground. The cruxes are at the beginning and end of the climb.
A tricky boulder problem just off the ground lets one get a hand-size cam in a slot just at the hard part. Pull on a chockstone through the first crux. Being tall probably helps. 5.8 cracks up to the big roof (this is the next crack system to the right of Upper Left Roof, at this point). A second crux turns the highest roof to the righthand side- this is protectable with smallish nuts and some cams under the roof but is still fairly awkward. One may also be able to exit by the center roof crack up high? or avoid the upper crux entirely by traversing right a little lower- escaping to the upper section of Battle of the Bulge.

Other than the tricky start (which isn't too high off the deck), good pro the whole way.
Jemez Rock calls this 5.11a. Chen/Wehner online guide sandbags us with a 5.9+ grade. I don't know what RC:NM says. (My opinion: 10ish.. it's got good pro..)

Location
This climb is the center line below the high roofs near the right side of the Playground, on the face to the right of Beginner's Hand Jam and Upper Left Roof.

Protection
1 set cams to 3", and nuts.
Save some gear to build an anchor. Like most at the Playground, the climb ends on the big ledge 20' below the clifftop, so anchoring off trees is not the best option.



(35) Battle of the Bulge 

5.11b/c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: unknown, 1970s
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11b/c
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Description
White Rock locals wish this climb was as perfect as the "other" Battle of the Bulge but while it's Indian Creek counterpart is enduro, the White-Rock-Bulge-climb is a few short boulder problems with good rests in between.

Start with an awkward stemming problem just to the right of Barlow's Buttress, with a weird move onto some crumbly holds to a good rest below the bulge being the crux, in my opinion. Fairly sequency, and demanding of flexibility; pro is small but likely ok.

The guides say the next bulge following a thin seam is the crux but I did not find it as hard as the difficult part near the beginning.

Next, turn a small roof on good hand jams, and continue up a slab with lots of pockets avoiding the giant roof above on the right.

Doing the 1st half of Barlows Buttress and the top half of this climb may be the easiest combination of these two routes (but still 5.10 or so).

This climb is dirty after rains.

Location
Under the cracks below the rightmost of the roofs which extend over from Upper Left Roof.

Protection
Cams to 3", nuts (incl. micros). Save some gear to build an anchor at the top. A large boulder is there that appears to be solidly attached to the rock below.



(36) Flakey Nine 

5.9+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: ???
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9+
Length: 60 feet
Description
The initial part of this climb ascends a thin flake for the first 15 feet (crux). Gain the ledge and go left up a finger crack to a small roof. Turn the roof to the left or the right. This route is easily rigged for TR from the top.

[If you know the "real name" for this climb, post up. -Admin]

Location
Approximately 15 feet to the left of Blow Hole.

Protection
1 set wired stoppers, 1 set cams up to a #1 Camalot.
A bolted anchor for Flakey Nine is down on the big ledge.


(36) Flakey Nine : At the crux of the route just above the cool thin flakes. April 2009.



(37) Unnamed 

5.11a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: unknown, 1970s
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11a
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
The open book left of the upper section of Blow Hole is a rather obvious line but lacks an obvious start. Getting there is the hard part.
Begin about 10' left of Blow Hole in seams.. a long reach from a lieback/stem (crux) will get you to some edges that let you move left to join the start of the featured upper dihedral. You can place a #3 or #4 cam before committing to the crux moves. The open book above is fun sustained stemming in the 5.10- range to the top.

Location
Climb starts 10' left of Blow Hole, and ends in the open book left of Blow Hole.

Protection
1 set nuts, 1 set cams up to a 3" cam.
Build an anchor off your gear at the top of the climb. Like many at the Playground, this one ends at the ledge 15' below the top, so tieing off dying trees is not a good choice. It may be ok to climb this route from an anchor for the next climb on either side.



(38) Blow Hole 

5.10d

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: unknown, 1970s
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10+
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Description
Probably the longest climb at the Playground, with sustained quality climbing. The Blow Hole is one of the only climbs at the Playground that doesn't have the big ledge near the top of the cliff interrupting it.

An immediate crux is the first 15', where you climb a finger crack with poor feet; this spits off many suitors. Place a good small cam (#0.3 camalot or equivalent) to keep from decking on the rocks! You can avoid this by an indirect start from the left by stemming between 2 cracks, or move in from even farther left with hands in a big pod. The next 15' is easy, follow the finger crack to a unique pocket in the cliff on the left side (the Blow Hole). A second crux is the lieback-to-mantle moves beginning with the Blow Hole at foot level and ending when you're on a big ledge to the left. This section is well-protected with cams and med. nuts. The rest of the climb follows easier cracks with a more holds on the faces nearby; there is a little bit of rubble near the very top, but it's no big deal.

Falls near the start can be particularly nasty, and at least one accident has occurred here (have your belayer spot you to keep you off the rocks). Falls at the upper crux are clean and airy but on solid gear.

Location
This climb is located at the far right of the Playground, at the rightmost place with sandy ground (before the boulder gully begins).

Protection
1 set wired nuts, 1 set cams to 3". If you haven't set it in advance, the anchor at the top can be constructed easily with 1-3" cams, or static rope tied to dying trees.


(38) Blow Hole : Pulling through the crux of Blow Hole and Brian Quiter starting up the "Unnamed (crack left of Blow Hole)." July 29, 2008.



(39) Repo Man 

5.12

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.12
Length: 45 feet
Description
Climb a micro-crack, then up and left up the steep dihedral (just right of Blowhole)

Location
Right of Blowhole. #38 in my guide , #39 in Beverly and the Beta Photo.

Protection
TR



(40) Moon Dog 

5.10

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: 
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.10
Length: 45 feet
Description
Straight up on face holds right of Repo Man. A bit loose.

Location
Farthest right route at the crag. #39 in my guide , #40 in Beverly and the Beta Photo.

Protection
TR



Playground Traverse 

V6-7

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground
FA: ?
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V6-7
Length: 300 feet
Description
Traverse the entire Playground crag in either direction. Amazingly beta-intensive. I never did the entire thing, but I know it's been done. If you're willing to go high, you might be able to make this a bit easier, but the classic traverse stays within a few feet of the ground the entire time.

There are several sections that are easier for tall and/or flexible climbers. It's not pumpy, as there are numerous no-hands rests. Expect weird, greasy cruxes and semi-dynamic *foot* moves in many spots. Old school bouldering at it's finest.

Location
Traverse the Playground.

Protection
You don't even need a pad. Best landing ever, and your feet are rarely more than 2' off the ground.