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Below The Old New Place


New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock
Latitude: 35.8186  Longitude: -106.1871 
Description
This crag is known for its high concentration of fully-bolted sport climbs, that ascend high quality pocketed basalt. This cliff probably has the highest concentration of hard routes at White Rock, with 10 of its 30 or so routes checking in at 5.12. The cliff also offers an excellent cliff-base atmosphere, with large, flat belay zones, flat rocks for sitting, and a beautiful, relaxed setting. The routes are so convenient and dense that its easy to tick 10 or more routes in an afternoon.

The cliff faces generally East like most WR crags, but the dihedral-ly nature of the cliff causes a bit more sun/shade variety than other nearby crags. The most norhterly facing routes get shade a bit after 1pm, while some routes aren't fully shaded till after 3pm.

While the rock here is excellent, the crag is a bit short (~50-60 feet), and many of the climbs suffer from mud runoff, coating routes like Sardonic Smile in a thick layer of dirt. Its easy to spot the dirty routes from the ground: they're the ones that look white or light gray.

Getting There
Stolen from Jason H: From NM4, turn south on Rover Blvd. Turn left on the first street on your left, Meadow Lane. Stay on Meadow Lane for 1.3 miles and park near 719 Meadow Lane. Please respect the homeowners and don't block mailboxes or driveways. A concrete public access trail heads down between 719 and 721 Meadow Lane. You'll know you're on the correct trail if two large, seemingly nasty, Golden Retriever dogs are barking at you. At the end of the concrete veer slightly left and continue straight towards the cliffs. Once at the canyon rim, turn left and walk N for ~50 yds, along the top of "The Old New Place". Locate an easy descent path (one 6 foot downclimb) that switches back down past the Old New Place (to the S), and eventually leads to the S end of Below The Old New Place. Total approach time is ~5 minutes. First bolted routes encountered are Scandinavian Airlines and Inflight Movie.


Below The Old New Place : The Left end of Below The old New Place. Bolted routes shown are:
4. Inflight Movie
5. Monsterpiece Theater
6. Little Shop of Horrors
8. Ralph's Liesure Suit
12. Adam Ant


Below The Old New Place : The Center section of Below The Old New Place. Not all routes shown.
10. Flesh Eating Gnats
12. Adam Ant
13. Wailing Banshees
18. PMS


Below The Old New Place : The right end. Not all routes shown.
18. PMS
19. IDYWASIAD
23. Fat Boys Don't Fly
28. Sardonic Smile
30. Strong Urge to Fly



(01) Unknown 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Description
Start in the next obvious dihedral left of Putterman Cracks, and work your way up slabs with gear in a thin hands crack to a big roof. Turn this on the right (crux). Continue to the top, going generally straight up, passing a bolt on the way through a steeper section with big jugs.

Another decent crack at BONP, but it doesn't see much traffic. Longer than the other easier climbs here (Putterman Cracks, L-Dopa) but a step less difficult.

Location
This climb is 10' left of Putterman Cracks and is listed as route #1 in Jemez Rock.

It is probably the left-most crack/corner one would consider climbing at BONP.

Protection
1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 3". Maybe a #4 cam would be placed.
There's now a 2-bolt anchor at the top equipped for lowering.


(01) Unknown : George Perkins on the unknown dihedral left of Putterman Cracks. Courtney Porreca on the belay.



(02) Putterman Cracks 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Ethan Putterman/Cam Burns, 1989
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9-
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
Stem between the two cracks just right of the large roof. Like many crack routes at 'Below the Old', many small face holds are available and their use is recommended. Near the top, it steepens and the right crack is wide, presenting the crux.

Location
Twin hand cracks just left of Scandanavian Airlines. (If you get to a bolted route on the approach, you've gone too far.) Starts just right of a big roof about 6' up.

Protection
Standard rack of nuts and cams up to 3"; don't need anything tiny. Bigger cams maybe useful at the OW pod at the top; other gear also works at this point. Traverse right at the top to get to the Scandanavian Airlines anchors. Use a directional placement at the top of the crack, if setting it for a follower.



(03) Scandanavian Airlines 

5.10c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Mike Schillaci, 7/89
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10c/d
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Description
Scandanavian Airlines is the first bolted arete you come to at the BONP (the southernmost bolted climb at the crag). Because it's one of the easier sport climbs at BONP, many choose to warm up on this route before bumping up to the 1st Class aretes such as Flesh-Eating Gnats and Wailing Banshees. However, the harder-than-expected thin crux at the top has let climbers accumulate many frequent flyer miles on Scandanavian Airlines.

Start with feet on the right of the arete, using small pockets and small ledges for handholds. At the 3rd bolt, things get thinner, necessitating use of even smaller crimps on the left-hand face and maybe look for a monopocket just right of the arete. After the thin crux moves, hold on to a decent-but-not-perfect horizontal and grab a funny horn thing to get to the (first) chains. You can continue past the first 2-bolt anchor to another 3-bolt anchor (that of Monsterpiece Theatre and Inflight Movie), but is really only worth it if you want to set a TR on those climbs.

This climb is a good way to reach the anchor for Inflight Movie and Monsterpiece Theatre if you want to toprope those classic 5.12s but aren't quite up for leading them.

Protection
3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor; or continue to another (3-bolt) anchor, shared with Monsterpiece Theatre and Inflight Movie.



(04) Inflight Movie 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Burns, Fehlau, 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a
Length: 1 pitch, 55 feet
Description
One of the longer BTONP routes, with no dirt-covered rock. This route begins right on the E face of the double-arete buttress that juts out into the trail. This route has been described as both funky and weird in various guidebooks, but I'm not sure why. The crux (~5th bolt) is not especially obvious, but there's no rose move, overhead heel hooking, figure 4's or even figure 9's.

A short boulder problem gains the excellent face. 11- moves lead up, and noticably left. Around the 4th bolt you may find yourself on the left arete, closer to SA's bolts than this route's. You should be on the right arete at this point, and may need to traverse straight right to achieve this. A good rest from a triangular hold right on the prow sets you up for the sequential, 4-move crux. A few improving edges lead to big jugs and a casual, runout stroll to the chains.

Location
The second bolted route from the left. Begins 2 feet right of Scandinavian Airlines, and 6 feet left of Monsterpiece Theater.

Protection
6 bolts, shared 2 BA with Monsterpiece Theater. There's a bit of a runout from the last bolt to the anchor on 5.7 terrain.



(05) Monsterpiece Theatre 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Peter Gram, 7/89
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
This fine pocket-fest is the left route on a wide panel of stone that gets relatively early shade, and features 3 5.12a's. Begin up an easy slab to a high first bolt. Two more bolts of easy climbing and the wall rears up to a slight overhang. A good shake from killer pockets at the 4th bolt offer one last chance to recuperate before the crux. A set of heinously thin pockets lead up and right to another jug. A long reach heads back left to a horizontal break and a good rest. From here, hard-to-see, black polished crimps and a cool hole lead up and left to the anchor.

Location
3rd bolted route from the left.

Protection
6 bolts, 2 BA.


(05) Monsterpiece Theatre : Shems BJ on Monsterpiece Theatre. Take the mono, love the mono.



(06) Little Shop Of Horrors 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a
Length: 1 pitch, 55 feet
Description
More sustained than its twin to the left, this great climb offers several hard moves on great rock. Begin the same as for Monsterpiece Theatre. At the 2nd bolt, make a hard right for the first bolt of this route. After clipping the LSOH's first bolt (third total) things get interesting. Some fancy footwork and a good mono lead up to improving holds and a pumpy sequence of continuous cranks. Never super hard, but it doesn't let up till you reach the smooth basalt near the top. After a well-earned shake, a few more balancey moves lead to the top.

Apparently folks used to approach this route via Polyester Terror, the crack to the right. The sport-climbers variation is described here. Rope drag isn't an issue.

Location
Right of Monsterpiece theater, shares first 2 bolts.

Protection
5 bolts and 2 bolt chain anchor that could be improved. Alternatively, bring some finger-sized gear.



(07) Polyester Terror 

5.10a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Ralph Menikoff
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10b
Length: 50 feet
Description
A right leaning crack in the middle of a face with small holds and pockets. Small face holds help to keep in balance, with the crack providing pro and security. A wide-pod-area about half-way up presents some difficulty. Just after the pod is the crux with less obvious footholds- gun it through to the jug. The final 8 feet is still stout, after the basalt changes to a more smoother variety (with holds farther apart)- here, the climb is steeper but the crack opens up for hand jams in a few places, but still feels tough especially if you worked hard to get here. The anchor is just left at the finish.

This climb is more continuously pumpy and has almost no good rest stances compared to most White Rock cracks at this grade.

Location
Obvious right-arching crack on the face right of the sport climbs Monsterpiece Theatre and Little Shop of Horrors.

Protection
Standard rack of nuts and cams to 3", nothing ridiculuously small. The Little Shop of Horrors 2 bolt anchor is easily reached from this route.



(08) Ralph's Leisure Suit 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Cam Burns, Jean Delataillade, 1990
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c/d
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Description
Another fine 12a on the left end of BTONP. There are 5 5.12a's within 15 feet of each other--a true sport climber's paradise! This one begins in the large dihedral before breaking out left onto the slabby face, with a long runout to the first bolt. Good crimping and sweet pockets lead up the narrowing wall to the crux section at the 4th bolt (and a difficult clip).

At this point the devil on your shoulder will try to lure you out left to the splitter hand crack and an eternity of 5.11c regret. If the angel prevails, head right and up via some thin, rounded crimps and sequential pockets, eventually heading back left to a large, heavily chalked crimp (visible from the ground). Clip the last bolt then head back right using a difficult-to-see crimp and a highly polished crimp on the arete. Some awkward footwork and perhaps an undercling lead to a horrible sidepull immediately next to the left anchor chain. From here I suppose most folks grab the chains in desperation, and some use the hard-to-ignore crack on the right, while the few purists will execute one more hard move to a large hidden hold in the roof crack.

Location
The 5th bolted route from the left; ends below a large roof.

Protection
5 Bolts, 2 BA



(09) Ralph's Dilemma 

5.10a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Ralph Menikoff
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a
Length: 60 feet
Description
Quality stemming on good rock.

Stem the open book under the big roof, finding ledges on pockets on the side walls. The seam in the corner provides adequate protection, RPs or other tiny nuts are helpful. Higher the crack widens rewarding the climber with hand jams just before you reach the roof.

Originally, at the roof, one would make a huge stem to the right with your own gear placements under the roof; turn the corner and a move later reach the anchors shared with Flesh-Eating Gnats. Now, many climbers just stop at the roof, clipping the anchors for Pathogenic Cysts to the right, or Ralph's Leisure Suit to the left. Doing this is advantageous in that one can more easily clean his or her gear while lowering, but disadvantage is being shortchanged as you miss out on the fun roof traverse, which might be the crux of the complete route.


Location
The obvious open book under the big roof (to the right of Leisure Suit and Polyester Terror; to the left of Flesh Eating Gnats)

Protection
Nuts and cams to 2". Those wanting to really sew it up will want micronuts and tiny cams.

Use the fixed 2-bolt anchor for Flesh-Eating Gnats, or the 2-bolt anchors below the roof for Pathogenic Cysts.


(09) Ralph's Dilemma : Roger Rumsey (blue, left) on Ralph's Dilemma (Mark Schraad on the belay) and Jason Halladay (green, right) on Ralph's Revenge with Bill Geist on the belay.



(09.5) Pathogenic Cysts 

5.11c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Nathaniel Walker and Walt Wehner, 11/18/97
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Description
This squeezed bolted face climb is one of the more recent additions to the BONP, and is omitted from the guidebooks despite having been bolted in 97; the route name and FA info I found in Walt's LA climbing update pages from the late 90s (and info from S.Beguin).

Scramble up the blocky crack at the start of Ralph's Dilemma, as you would for Flesh Eating Gnats, then step right and climb up the face left of the 'Gnats' arete. Crimp up fun and progressively thinning face to the last bolt, which is followed by an overhanging section to the chains. I thought the last move was the hardest, reachiest, and most strenuous move on the climb, with a powerful lieback to reach the holds to clip the chains. The crack to the left is assumed to be 'off', although it would be a little stupid to avoid using the crack below the first bolt (unless you stickclip it?).

The climb is perhaps offensive to some because the anchors provide convenient pro for the crux roof traverse on the previously established crack climb to its left Ralphs Dilemma.

Location
The bolted climb left of Flesh Eating Gnats and right of the crack Ralphs Dilemma.

Protection
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor



(10) Flesh-Eating Gnats 

5.11b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Brian Riepe, Tom MacFarlane, 5/89
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
Amazing arete with possible moves on either side using pockets and small ledges. At the beginning, bypass the undercut roof to the left (easy) or the right (harder- perhaps with hard moves before you clip the 1st bolt). As you move up, look for holds on both sides of the arete and some strange stances on the arete itself. Up high, the rock becomes less featured and steeper, but only a few moves are needed to get through this cruxy part, and the chalked holds may provide clues as to what to go for.

Why's it called Flesh-Eating Gnats ?? Climb here in late summer evenings... you'll see.

Location
Prominent arete between the two most obvious dihedrals (Ralph's Dilemma and Revenge)

Route 10 in Monomaniac's beta photo

Protection
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


(10) Flesh-Eating Gnats : Really nice, sustained arete climbing.



(11) Ralph's Revenge 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Ralph Menikoff
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+
Length: 60 feet
Description
Stem up the clean obvious fun dihedral with the wavy 3/4" to 1" crack in the back. Classic. A thin part with less face features on the left seems hard. Up high, the crack turns into a pod below a small roof- turn this with pro in a finger crack. Alternatively you can escape right to the Adam Ant anchors (easiest) or left to the Flesh-Eating Gnats anchors.

Location
Obvious open book right of Flesh Eating Gnats and left of Adam Ant.

Protection
Standard Rack of cams and nuts up to 2". Some may want doubles of the #0.75 camalot.
2-bolt anchor.


(11) Ralph's Revenge : Bill Geist in the thick of it on Ralph's Revenge. At this point you can exit left to the anchors for Flesh Eating Gnats or head right to the anchors for Adam Ant.



(12) Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Peter Gram and Tom McFarlane, 7/87
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12-
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Description
In my opinion, the best of the 12a's at BTONP. Not as long as some, but by far the most sustained. It's on from the first bolt to the anchor.

Scramble up the ledge to begin. You may want a piece of gear to start, or haul your stick clip up to the ledge to clip the first bolt, or solo up the crack 2 moves to clip the bolt. Head straight up on awesome sculpted pockets and thin crimps. Long sequential reaches on incut but small holds lead up the ever steepening wall. Near the top the holds dwindle and the movement becomes more desparate. Stay left until its possible to snag the top edge of the cliff, then traverse right two feet to the chain anchor.

Obviously the dihedral crack is 'off', but I used it to get to the first bolt, and it seems, based on the chalk, that everyone else does the same.

Location
On the wall left of the Wailing Banshees arete.

Protection
4 bolts, 2 BA shared with Wailing Banshees. May want a hand-sized piece at the start.


(12) Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) : Just passing the very high first bolt. April 2009.



(13) Wailing Banshees 

5.11b/c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: FA (toprope): Ralph Menikoff, Chris Foster, Norbert Ensslin-- late 1970s. Bolted, then led by: Tom MacFarlane, Brian Riepe-- May 1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 62 feet
Description
A very sweet arete route just right of Adam Ant. Nice, positive pockets on both sides of the arete serve up great hands while little edges and points on the arete give it up for the feet. Be sure to look on both sides of the arete for the pockets. A small crux comes above the second bolt trying to get to the great ledge and then another crux heading to the chains on a hold that looks good from below but is not quite as positive as the lower holds.

Location
This route is the sharp arete just right of "Adam Ant". Shown as route 13 on Monomaniac's center routes photo.

Protection
4 bolts to shared chain anchors with "Adam Ant". The first bolt is way high up the route but the climbing to that point isn't too difficult and there's a good clip hold.


(13) Wailing Banshees : Taking full advantage of my wings on Wailing Banshees. Photo by Shems BJ...I think, could have been Wa3lt as well.



(14) Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a/b
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
A beautiful slightly-overhanging-but-locker finger crack with 'just enough' footholds on the face goes to a bulge where the rock changes texture near the top. Here, a solitary hand jam provides a welcome rest before a couple of thin, cruxy face moves to easier ground. Bear a little to the right up high to reach the anchors.

Originally rated 5.11c/d, but general consensus is that this is a notch or two easier.

At least 2 longtime LA climbers swear this crack was not called Manic Crack back in the day.. that this and the crack to its right (now called Lost Nerve in the guidebooks) were referred to as the Twin Cracks.

Location
Obvious slightly overhanging finger crack just right of the Banshees bolted arete climb.

Protection
Rack of cams from a #0.3 camalot to a #2 camalot; some may want 1-3 extras of #0.4 camalot size. Nuts also may be useful, if you can hang on to place 'em.
At the top, angle to the right from the top to the 2-bolt anchor for Manic Nirvana (the sport climb just to the right).


(14) Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) : George Perkins looking solid on his first clean send of Manic Crack. April 29, 2008.



(15) Manic Nirvana 

5.12

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12
Length: 50 feet
Description
The thin face between Manic Crack and Lost Nerve. Super tweaky, probably the hardest route at the crag.

Location
#15 in the photo.

Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.



(16) Lost Nerve (aka Right Twin Crack) 

5.10+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Description
Lieback and stem up the finger crack in the corner, until the corner ends and and your standing on the obvious pedestal looking at a steep bulge. A few awkward moves pass this crux section, with tricky thin pro after one bomber nut placement, then some easier climbing to the anchors.

This climb seems hard for the grade, with a crux that's about equally difficult to Manic Crack but not as overall sustained.

Location
On white face right of Wailing Banshees are 2 finger cracks (the "twin cracks"). Lost Nerve is the right one of the two, which starts in a shallow left-facing corner. The arete to its right is dark, and the sport climb to its left is Manic Nirvana.

Protection
Rack of nuts and cams to 2", with optional doubles of finger size cams.
Angle left at the top to the 2 bolt+chain anchor for Manic Nirvana.



(17) L Dopa 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Cam Burns 1990
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 35 feet
Description
Fun dihedral / finger crack angling right to the PMS ledge. Stem your way up. Pay attention to avoid knocking the loose rocks on the ledge below the anchor down on those below, or take the direct finish to a recently installed 2-bolt anchor above the crack up and left of the big platform ledge.

Location
Cracks in the corner just left of PMS.

Protection
Rack of small gear, with nothing bigger than 2".
Use the 2-bolt anchor for PMS (not visible from immediately below), or, now a 2-bolt anchor now exists atop the direct finish above the PMS ledge.



(18) P.M.S. 

5.10a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Mike Schillaci, 9/89
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a
Length: 1 pitch, 35 feet
Description
P.M.S. is a popular warmup at BONP, and is the easiest of the sport climbs at the crag.

Fun moves leaning off the arete with a crux section at the last bolt where it thins out. If you can control your hormones, try it without using the arete, which makes for a fun but contrived 5.11a.

Be careful not to send the loose gravel on the ledge below the anchor down on your belayer.

Location
The sharp-looking arete on a buttress right of the Wailing Banshees-Manic Crack-Lost Nerve face. Stops on a big ledge, which is an obvious landmark.

Protection
4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (out of sight on big ledge). At least 2 guidebooks say "only 3 bolts", but there are really 4 (the highest bolt is newer?).



(19) I Dogged your Wife and She is a Doofus 

5.11b/c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Cam Burns
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c
Length: 40 feet
Description
Short face that starts off a ledge. High first bolt clipped by from the left is followed by positive pockets. Crux is after the 2nd bolt, with a tricky thin or reachy move just before the 3rd bolt.

Location
Route #19 in the photo.

Protection
3 bolts, 1 bolt anchor. Traverse right to 2-bolt anchor for "Greg Shredder" if you don't like the 1-bolt anchor.



(20) Greg Shredder 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Greg Mechels, John Osbourne, Scott Beguin
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9-
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
Starts in an ugly wide offwidth and continues up a leaning fists dihedral into a slightly overhanging sharp painful hands crux and then the climbing eases to more wide stuff and a 2 bolt anchor. This route is rather ugly but a lot of fun and is painful, so tape up and put on your gameface, as it is harder than it looks.


Location
This route is located to the right around from "P.M.S." and directly in between "I Dogged Your Wife And She Is A Doofus" and "Instant Dogma". It shares anchors with "Instant Dogma."

Protection
#2-#5 Camalots, Blue and green Aliens, and standard trad runners. 2 bolt rap. Might need the rap sling replaced.



(21) Instant Dogma 

5.10+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Tom Quigley
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10d
Length: 40 feet
Description
This is a nice-LOOKING arete problem, but is actually pretty brutal. Basically you climb up the sharp arete, using incut pockets on both sides. Some of them feel comfy from below, only to become razor sharp as you pull on them. If you are lucky, there will be a way for you to pull on the pockets without injury, but prepare for some significant bleeding. Ouch.

Location
Next bolted line right of IDYWASIAD

Protection
3 bolts. Anchor as for IDYWASIAD



(22) Unknown 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 50 feet
Description
An enjoyable finger crack in a shallow dihedral leads to a steep, bulging finish that ends up being easier and more fun than it looks from below.
Scramble five feet up onto the good ledge and follow the nice finger crack and pockets on the walls up to rock of lesser, but still OK, quality just below the bulge. Find some nice big holds below and above the bulge and pull up over it into good rock and a nice semi-laybacking section to the shared anchors with (23) Fat Boys Don't Fly.

Location
The route is the obvious finger crack just left of Fat Boys Don't Fly. It would be route number 22 in the BTONP right-side routes photo.

Protection
A standard set of nuts and small to medium cams up to 1". The Jemez Rock book description states pro up to 2" but I never found anything larger than the .75 camalot.



(23) Fat Boys Don't Fly 

5.12

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12
Length: 40 feet
Description
This is the first bolted route to the right of (21) Instant Dogma. Start atop a short ledge and set off up the overhanging face, working your way up a series of crimps and shallow (some sharp) pockets. Find a decent ledge at the third bolt, then get to figuring out how you're going to get past the steep, seemingly blank crux headwall. The original Samet guide suggests that going left here (there's a pretty good side pull) makes the route 5.12a, while going right and dynoing up to the good ledge high and right makes the route 5.12c. This, to me, is like saying, "If you skip that good hold, the route is a lot harder," which is fine if that good hold is clearly off-route, but in this case, it's not, so I'm a bit confused. Continue up on easier, but slightly loose, terrain to gain the ledge. This route shares anchors with (22) Unknown (5.9).

Location
Route #23 in the beta photo.

Protection
4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



(24) Unknown 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 40 feet
Description
Crack climb right of FBDF. The crux is a hard move off the platform. Mostly liebacking above, through some birdshit, to the left side of a big ledge. Place a directional piece, and step right to the anchors for the next 3 climbs to the right. Or maybe continue up and left to the FBDF anchor?

Location
Right of FBDF. Use bolted anchors, topping out is a BAD idea due to loose rock/scree.

Protection
Gear to 2"



(25) Unknown 

5.10d

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10d
Length: 35 feet
Description
Get established with your hands in a crack, then crank some cool moves off of good pockets and edges. Pull onto a huge ledge above bolt three and reach around the corner to your right to clip the a badly placed fourth bolt. Fourth class to the anchors.

The climb is currently a bit dirty and has some loose rock, especially up high. I think this will improve with some traffic.

Location
Around thirty feet right of the PMS arete, but before a wide crack system. Look for three bolts on an arete and a fourth way off to the right on a face.

Protection
4 bolts to two-bolt anchor



(27) Unknown 

5.11d

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: ?
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11d
Length: 1 pitch, 35 feet
Description
The slabby face between two cracks left of Sardonic Smile hosts a contrived 5.11+ sport climb.

Thin moves on this route require bearing down on small and sometimes painful crimps and occasional pockets as you solve a thin face mental puzzle, while maintaining the discipline to avoid the cracks on either side of the 5' slab you're climbing on. (Grab a crack, even once, and you're downrated to 5.9, or 5.10 or or something like that.) The crux is at a thin section near the last bolt that requires tricky footwork to a reach. Using the cracks/aretes makes for an ok 5.9/5.10 sport climb.

Because of the low-angle aspect of the climb, this route is less pumpy than other 5.11s at BONP, so you have time to figure out which tiny hold to use next.

You can TR this route from the anchor, which can can be reached by climbing the 5.8 crack climb immediately to its left, or by climbing the 5.10d sport climb on the arete to the left.

If you know the FA info or the correct name, let me know.

Protection
5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.



(28) Sardonic Smile 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Brian Riepe, 8/89
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11d
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This route would be pretty good if it weren't so dirty. Unfortunately, it's currently covered in a thick film of mud that really detracts from the climbing experience.

If you must, begin by scrambling up the ledge and traversing out right. Head up right of the first bolt on good but camoflauged (by mud) holds to a nearly invisible clipping jug right next to the first bolt. Long cranks on large pockets lead to more good crimps past the 2nd bolt. After the third bolt, the wall slabs out and the crimps get very thin and sharp. Some desperate moves lead to some not-as-good-as they look clipping holds at the 4th bolt. A few more casual moves lead to the anchor.

Location
At the right end of BTONP, this route climbs the center of a wide light-gray wall.

Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor shared with Color of My Potion. May want to stick clip the 1st bolt to avoid a ledge fall.



(29) Color of My Potion 

5.12b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Bob D'antonio
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b
Length: 45 feet
Description
Arete right of Sardonic Smile. Sharp, thin crux is at the top.

Location
Right of Sardonic Smile. #29 in the photo.

Protection
Bolts.



(30) Strong Urge to Fly 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Mike McGill
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This excellent route would be 4 stars if it were a bit longer. With excellent rock, great holds, and fun moves this one is a must do. Its given 12b in the Samet guide, and felt a bit harder than the other 12a's here (but it was the last route of the day, so who knows)

Begin by scrambling up the ledge to the right of the route's base. Good holds lead to the first bolt and a long reach to a really good crimp to get established on the wall. Head up the prow with long reaches. Just below the 3rd bolt cop a dubious rest and clip with some difficulty. Move up to two really poor pockets that look much better from below, hike up your feet and soar for the obvious pocket. Its possible to do this move statically, but kinda defeats the purpose. Above the dyno the route slabs out but the holds diminish as well, and you never really get that finishing jug you're hoping for. An awkward sequence leads into the flaring dihedral and some dirty jugs. Clipping the anchor can be a bit difficult. Your best bet is to climb high and clip low.

Location
Far right end of BTONP. 3rd bolted route from the right.

Protection
4 Bolts, 2 BA.



(31) Unknown 

5.12b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Cam Burns
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12b
Length: 45 feet
Description
Back in the day, we thought this route was overbolted. But these days, it's pretty normal. Bulging black face climb. Seldom done, but worthy.

Location
Right of Strong Urge to Fly.

Protection
6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.



(32) Unknown 

5.10d

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d
Length: 45 feet
Description
Crack just left of Nightstick. Harder than it looks, often dirty, but a good climb.

Go right at the top and use the 2-bolt anchor for Nightstick.

Location
Just left of Nightstick (the farthest right bolted route)

Protection
Pro to 3"



(33) Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands 

5.11

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place
FA: Burns, Fehlau
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 45 feet
Description
Scramble onto a ledge, then go up the face/arete on fun but height-dependent moves. A hard onsight.

Location
Farthest right bolted route at the crag.

Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. (The guidebook only lists 3 bolts.)