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Main Wall


New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge
Elevation: 6400 
Description
The Main Wall at Gallows Edge has the largest concentration of routes at Gallows. 8 bolted routes and a few crack lines are found here.

Carlo Torres, Jon Butler, Lucas Laeser, and Mike Lyons discovered this wall, and solo'd most of the 1st ascents.


Getting There
Follow directions for accessing Gallows Edge.


[hide] Main Wall : The routes of the Main Wall of Gallows Edge. Topo by Jason Halladay.



(01) Butler Route 

5.5 PG13

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: John Butler
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.5
Length: 40 feet
Description
The left-most route at Gallows. A good, low-angle crack line that makes for a nice beginner trad lead.

Location
Left-most route at Gallows Edge. Listed as route 1 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
Small to medium gear to two-bolt anchor.



(02) Planet of the Apes 

5.8+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: Scott Fitzgibbon, Luke Laeser, Theo Takeda, Rick Bradshaw, Carlo Torres and Walt Wehner, 1/98
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.8+
Length: 40 feet
Description
The left-most bolted route at the Gallows Edge main wall. Easy climbing down low to a fun, challenging and airy arete finish. One anchor bolt was replaced in April 2007.

Location
The left-most bolted route at the Gallows Edge main wall. Listed as #2 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
4 bolts to a two bolt anchor with carabiners. For the safety and convenience of everyone, please leave the carabiners in place!



(03) Unknown Crack Route 

5.7

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7
Length: 30 feet
Description
The off-width crack right of Planet of the Apes. Short route.

Location
Listed as route #3 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
Medium to large gear--a number 4 camalot up high is nice. No anchor. Can use anchors of (03.1) As You Wish I would guess.



(04) Prince Humperdink 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: ???-(3/98)
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.12a
Length: 32 feet
Description
The hardest route at Gallows Edge. Work your way through short, steep and powerful moves through a series of two-finger pockets near the arete to a huge jug below the very high first bolt. Using the arete on the right apparently makes it a bit easier (5.11-ish) but seems natural and arguably more fun. A few more steep moves lead to the second bolt before the angle backs off past the third bolt to the anchors for (05) The Fire Swamp.

Location
Listed as route #4 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
3 bolts to shared anchors with The Fire Swamp. The first bolt is way up there and the crux moves come before it so using a stick clip is highly recommended.



(05) The Fire Swamp 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: Various local lads in the early 1990s including Wehner, Takeda, Green, Lyons, Laesar, Frostensen
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 40 feet
Description
One of the better routes at Gallows. Thin moves down low lead to very nice, bigger pockets higher up. Good stone.

Location
Listed as route #5 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
4 bolts to a two bolt anchor with carabiners. For the safety and convenience of everyone, please don't steal the carabiners!



(06) Unknown Face Route 

5.8-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: ???-(3/98)
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8-
Length: 32 feet
Description
A short but steeper face route between The Fire Swamp and Princess Buttercup. Follow the blunt, curving arete up a line of bolts to shared anchors with "The Fire Swamp". Seemingly more difficult than the rating suggests.

Location
Listed as route #6 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
3 bolts to shared anchors with "The Fire Swamp".



(07) Princess Buttercup 

5.6

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: Scott Fitzgibbon, Luke Laeser, Theo Takeda, Rick Bradshaw, Carlo Torres and Walt Wehner, 1/98
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.6
Length: 32 feet
Description
A pocketed, slabby route that makes for a good beginner sport lead.

Location
Listed as route #7 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
3 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rappel rings.


[hide] (07) Princess Buttercup : Cody on Princess Buttercup and Amy B. on 99 Red Balloons. June 1, 2008.



(07.1) R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) 

5.7

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: Allison Fritz & Jason Halladay, August 2008
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.7
Length: 40 feet
Description
R.O.U.S. is a clean face route on really good rock with a bit of thin face climbing before a small roof move near the top. Make some easy scrambling moves up six feet to a comfy stance, solid hand jam and the first bolt. Face climb on small holds through the crux of the route between bolts 2 and 3 using small pockets and edges past a couple more bolts up to a small ledge and small roof. It is here, under the roof, that R.O.U.S.es may be hiding. Move quickly! The well-protected mini-roof move is another crux to a super large ledge and the anchor.

Rodents Of Unusual Size (ROUS) reside in the Fire Swamp and attacked Princess Buttercup and her companion Westley when they bravely entered the Fire Swamp. If you're not familiar with R.O.U.S.es watch a short segment from the movie The Princess Bride. At about 6:13 minutes into the segment the R.O.U.S.es appear.



Location
This route ascends the clean face to the right of Princess Buttercup.

Protection
A generously protected route that would make for a good first sport lead. 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor equipped with carabiners. The left, steel carabiner is a bit sticky on the gate so be sure it closes. (I didn't notice this until after I installed it.)


[hide] (07.1) R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) : Cody (6) cleaning gear, approaching the dreaded ROUS! Feb 2009.



(08) 99 Red Balloons 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: Scott Fitzgibbon and Walt Wehner, 6/98
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8-
Length: 45 feet
Description
The first bolted route right of the large chimney near the middle of the main wall. Fun face climbing with a steep finish on jugs. Using the arete on the left keeps the climb at 5.8. More challenging is not using the arete and making the route 5.9ish.

Location
Listed as route #8 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
4 bolts to a two bolt anchor with carabiners. For the safety and convenience of everyone, please leave the carabiners in place and enjoy using them!


[hide] (08) 99 Red Balloons : A shot from the bottom. 99 Red Balloons follows the face between the two cracks.



(09) Unknown Crack 

5.7

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7
Length: 40 feet
Description
A nice layback and crack climb up the obvious crack between 99 Red Balloons and Once Were Warriors. Use anchors of either neighboring climb or gear anchor.

Location
Listed as route #9 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
Small to medium gear to bolted anchors of one of the neighboring climbs.



(10) Once Were Warriors 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: Scott Fitzgibbon, Luke Laeser, Theo Takeda, Rick Bradshaw, Carlo Torres and Walt Wehner, 1/98
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 45 feet
Description
A high first bolt is reached via easy climbing then more fun face climbing to the steep finish on big holds.

Location
Listed as route #10 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
4 bolts to a chain anchor with carabiners. Please don't steal the carabiners and enjoy the safety and convenience.


[hide] (10) Once Were Warriors : Cody on Once Were Warriors and Amy B. on Pejos Route giving each other a high-five on their way to the top. June 1, 2008.



(11) Pejos Route 

5.7

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: ???- (7/2001)
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.7
Length: 45 feet
Description
A small overhang at the bottom leads to thin face climbing to a nice ledge. Take a break at the ledge and then tackle the steep finish.

Location
The right-most bolted route on the Gallows Edge main wall. Listed at route #11 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
5 bolts to a two bolt anchor with carabiners. Please enjoy the safety and convenience of the fixed carabiners and leave them for others to use and enjoy too.



(12) The Giant Killer 

5.4

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Main Wall
FA: Various local lads in the early 1990s including Wehner, Takeda, Green, Lyons, Laesar, Frostensen
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.4
Length: 28 feet
Description
The slabby, short face at the far right end of the main wall. The first ten feet are steep and then the angle backs off for the remaining 20 feet. Mostly soloed for years but after comments from folks in the FA party about it possibly getting bolted to add another beginner sport lead to an area that's known for its beginner sport routes, bolts were added in summer 2008.

Location
The slabby, short face at the far right end of the main wall. Listed as route #12 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection
Three bolts to a two-bolt anchor with clips.


[hide] (12) The Giant Killer : Mom on the sharp end on a fine Valentine's Day 2009.