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Upper Tier


New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge
Elevation: 6400 
Description
The small cliff above the Main Wall at Gallows Edge. Two bolted routes and a decent crack climb are found here.

Getting There
Follow directions for Gallows Edge but don't descend all the way down to the third shelf. The Upper Tier is the second shelf. Look for a long chain anchor that is the top of Dave And Crissa's Route. That is the left-most route on the Upper Tier.


[hide] Upper Tier : Upper Gallows Edge.
DC: Dave And Crissa's Route 5.9
QC: Quality Control Be Damned 5.7
FC: Forgotten Crack 5.9
Matt Senderhauf photo.



Crack Right of Quality Control 

5.5

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Upper Tier
FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.5
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Description
The crack immediately right of Quality Control Be Damned is a decent beginner trad lead, with ample opportunities for placing pro from good stemming stances. Start with the crack on either side of the block at the beginning. Good stemming and fun climbing in the middle. The crux is at a steeper section at the top with big holds. There was some rubble and looseness on this line, we cleaned some of it off, but it's still nothing close to immaculate.

If this type of 5.4-5.7 shorty trad climbs interests you, there are a few lines similar to this that can be found on the Upper Ledge of Gallows, just find a good one and go for it.

Protection
1 set nuts and cams to 3". Save some gear to build an anchor at the top, or use a static line to tie off a tree 30' back from the edge.



Dave And Crissa's Route 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Upper Tier
FA: Ben Hatcher, 2001
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9-
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This is the first route you get to if approaching from the south. This route involves some thought provoking airy arete moves through 4 bolts. The crux is moving over the second bolt. Worth doing if you are at Gallows edge.

Location
This is the southernmost route that is located on the shelf above Gallow's Edge proper and is east facing so it gets early morning sun. There is an obvious cut off to the left when approaching Gallow's Edge. Follow this across minor talus for about 100 feet off of the main approach trail.

Protection
4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor.


[hide] Dave And Crissa's Route : Just above the crux



Forgotten Crack 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Upper Tier
FA: Ben Hatcher
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Location
2nd crack right of Quality Control... (after a low angle corner/chimney with the loose rock, wiseguy!). Start just left of the big block.

Description
Forgotten Crack is a forgettable splitter hand/fist crack in the Upper Gallows Edge region. This climb is rated with lots of quality stars in both the online Gallows Edge guide and Jemez Rock, but taller and more sustained cracks can be found at the nearby ONP or BONP cliffs in my opinion..

Start by stemming behind a block to the right, then follow splitter finger/hand crack up slab down low, then through a splitter hand crack crux up high, keeping an eye out for good footholds.

Soft for a 5.9 in White Rock, if you know how to hand jam.

Protection
Nuts + 1 set cams up to 3", don't need real little ones. Gotta build your own anchor at the top (static rope is helpful if you want to reach to a tree a ways back from the edge)



Quality Control Be Damned 

5.6

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Gallows Edge : Upper Tier
FA: Ben Hatcher, 2001
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.7+
Length: 1 pitch, 45 feet
Description
This is another thought provoking route for the grade. The crux is over the first bolt. There is an optional 1 inch gear placement between the second and third bolt if you are not comfortable with the minor run out. Gain a ledge over the third bolt to a blocky exit.

Location
This route is located directly to the right of Dave And Crissa's Route. It starts on the same talus.

Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor.