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North/West side

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook
Elevation: 6400

Description
The often shady and cooler area at The Overlook. One can escape the summer's heat and enjoy numerous bolted sport routes.

This side of the Overlook isn't as popular as the east side because it's shorter and it can be difficult to reach the anchors from the top to set top ropes on some of the climbs. The bolted routes are high quality, as is the crack climb Crisis in Utopia, so a visit to the North Side of the Overlook is definitely worthwhile, but the first time visitor to the Overlook should stay probably on the Main Wall.

Getting There
Follow directions for reaching the main Overlook area. Once at the South/East side, continue hiking north along the base of the wall and around the point to your left.

Bolted Climbs, from Left to Right
(courtesy of Daniel Trugman; crack climbs in between not listed)

(01) View with a Room 5.11b
(02) Overloord 5.11a
(03) Overlard (aka Foops) 5.10a
(04) Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females 5.11b
(05) D'Antonio Approach 5.12a
(06) Huecos Rancheros 5.10c
(07) Unknown 5.11d
(08) Unknown 5.12a
(09) Just Say No To Jugs 5.11a
(10) Vasoconstrictor 5.12b
(11) Dangle Your Participle 5.10c
(12) Overlichen 5.11a
(13) Chocolate Thunder 5.11d
(14) Hammertime 5.12b
(15) Citizen of Time 5.11d
(16) Primal Scream 5.12a
(17) Overkill 5.11a/b
(18) Lubme 5.12a
(19) Biomechanoid 5.12a
(20) Putterman Gully Jump 5.10a

North/West side : Left side of the Overlook- North. Photo by Wa3lt.
(01) View with a Room 5.11b
(02) Overloord 5.11a
(03) Overlard (aka Foops) 5.10a
(04) Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females 5.11b
(05) D'Antonio Approach 5.12a
(06) Huecos Rancheros 5.10c
(07) Unknown 5.11d
(08) Unknown 5.12a
(09) Just Say No To Jugs 5.11a
(10) Vasoconstrictor 5.12b
Unlabeled lines are trad climbs 5.8-5.9

North/West side : Right side of the Overlook- North. Photo by Wa3lt.
(12) Overlichen 5.11a
(12.1) Vanilla Crack 5.9 Trad
(13) Chocolate Thunder 5.11d
(14) Hammertime 5.12b
(15) Citizen of Time 5.11d
(15.1) Crisis In Utopia 5.10d Trad
(16) Primal Scream 5.12a (not shown)
(17) Overkill 5.11a/b
(18) Lubme 5.12a
(19) Biomechanoid 5.12a
(20) Putterman Gully Jump 5.10a

North/West side : Left side of the Overlook N. I have lost the numbering info for this shot, unfortunately.

North/West side : Right side of the Overlook N. No numbering available from me, I'm afraid. The trident of climbs on the far right are the Putterman shared start routes.

(00) Toprope face (unknown)

5.9

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:
Type:	TR
Consensus:	5.9
Length:	35 feet

Description
Toprope the face just around the corner from the Overlook SE side. Pretty fun, but short.

Location
Left of View with a Room

Protection
TR

(01) View with a Room

5.11

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	John Foley, Craig Copelin
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.11
Length:	35 feet

Description
First bolted route around the corner from the south side. Steep, 25 foot face route.

Location
First route on the far left side of the Overlook North side.

Protection
3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

(02) Overloord

5.11a

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Foley, Copelin, Wirtz
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.11a
Length:	1 pitch, 50 feet

Description
Start on the lefthand side of the slab, crank out over the roof which is the crux, then continue up the left arete/face to a shared exit and anchors with Overlard.

Location
This is the 2nd bolted route you come to if coming from the south side. It is the left side of the obvious block roof.

Protection
4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor.

(03) Overlard (aka Foops)

5.10a

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Wirtz, Foley, Copelin (or Roybal?)
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.10a/b
Length:	1 pitch, 50 feet

Description
Cruise up the right side of the obvious slab to a high spacey first clip off of a secure undercling, then pull the roof on large pockets and trend left to surmount the exit moves. The crux is pulling the roof without using the crack to the right, and staying on the face. It shases its last bolt, and anchors with (02) Overloord. A fun and lively warm up. It gets morning shade and afternoon sun.

Location
1st route to the right of Overloord.

Protection
4 bolts to a two bolt chained anchor.

(03) Overlard (aka Foops) : Enjoying the nice face climbing after clipping bolt 2.

(03.2) Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Crack

5.8

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	???
Type:	Trad
Consensus:	5.8
Length:	1 pitch, 40 feet

Description
This is a very enjoyable warm up on the North Side. It starts up a ramp with a hand crack in a left facing dihedral that gets wider as you go and then turns into a finger crack that exits out a steep overhang with excellent foot placements and secure jamming.

Location
This is the first obvious crack system to the left of C.O-R.F.S. Females

Protection
1-#2 Camalot, 1-#3 Camalot, 1-#5 Camalot, and 1-yellow Alien bring you to a nice 2 bolt anchor. The anchors will get chains on them soon.

(04) Overripe Fresh-Squeezed California Females

5.11b

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Cameron Burns and Paul Fehlau, 1990
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.11b
Length:	1 pitch, 50 feet

Description
The crux is off the deck on thin crimps up an overhang to some nice rounded pockets on a vertical face/arete section to a sweet exit. If you step over left at the bottom (crux), the route probably goes at 5.10b.

Location
This is the first bolted line to the right of Overlard.

Protection
4 bolts and 2 fixed slings to a 2 bolt chained anchor.

(05) D'Antonio Approach

5.12a

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Bob D'Antonio, Mike McGill
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.12a
Length:	35 feet

Description
A contrived boulder problem (don't touch the crack!) leads to easier and funner 5.10 face climbing.

Location
Next route right of OFSCF.

Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

(06) Huecos Rancheros

5.10c

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Rick Smith and Lee Sheftel, 1989
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.10c
Length:	1 pitch, 45 feet

Description
Crank some entertaining moves past some large rounded jugs up a short overhanging wall. Harder than it looks, but its over quick. The crux is between bolts 2 and 4. Retro bolted by one of the FAs in 1999 because of many near grounders that occured.

Location
This is the third bolted line to the right(west) of Overlard.

Protection
4 bolts to a two bolt chained anchor

(06) Huecos Rancheros : George Perkins warming up on Heucos Rancheros

(07) Unknown

5.11d

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Unknown
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.11d
Length:	1 pitch, 35 feet

Description
This route stars up a moderate and featured ramp to the first clip, then desperately crank up painful crimps and shallow pockets up an overhanging wall past two more bolts. Continue to the exit mantle up onto the top shelf.

Location
This is the first bolted line to the right of Huecos Rancheros.

Protection
3 bolts to a 2 Bolt chained anchor.

(07.1) Just Say Yes To Fingercrack

5.9

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	???
Type:	Trad
Consensus:	5.9
Length:	35 feet

Description
This climb is yet another nice moderate on the North Side that climbs a vertical finger crack that gets wider and exits left at the top. Harder than it looks.

Location
The obvious crack system to the right of Unknown, and also to the right of Huecos Rancheros.

Protection
Stoppers, Aliens, and a #3 Camalot to a 2 bolt chained anchor that is shared with The Unknown 5.11d face sport route.

(08) Unknown

5.12a

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Rick Smith, early 90s
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.11b/c
Length:	40 feet

Description
Face climbing. Keep away from the crack at the top for the full rating.

Location
Just left of Just Say No to Jugs

Protection
[4] bolts, 2 bolt anchor

(09) Just Say No To Jugs

5.11a

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Rick Smith and Lee Sheftel, 1989
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.11a
Length:	1 pitch, 50 feet

Description
An overhanging wall with monster pockets and some stellar climbing. The opening moves are a little tricky so don't blow the first clip as it is a horrible landing. Get the first bolt and let the fun pocket pumping begin, and then continue to the thin and tricky exit up onto a shelf. The crux is at the last bolt.

Location
1st chalked up route to the left of Vasoconstrictor

Protection
4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor. Stick clip recommended.

(10) Vasoconstrictor

5.12

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Rick Smith
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.12
Length:	45 feet

Description
Face climb on small pockets and edges. One of the harder ticks at the Overlook, IMO.

Location
Just right of Just Say No to Jugs.

Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

(10.1) Sandy Pocket Crack

5.8

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Unknown
Type:	Trad
Consensus:	5.8
Length:	1 pitch, 50 feet

Description
The crux is through the middle section of this otherwise nice handcrack in a deep dihedral. It is a little dirty and loose at the top. Continue to the Dangle Your Participle anchors. This is a good warm up if you brought the rack.

Location
The handcrack in between Vasoconstrictor and Dangle Your Participle.

Protection
#1 and #2 Link cams, a #1, #2, #3, And #4 Camalots. Take a shoulder runner for The #4 at the top to reduce rope drag. Then a 2 bolt chained anchor to the right.

(11) Dangle Your Participle

5.10b/c

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Rick Smith
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.10c
Length:	1 pitch, 50 feet

Description
A nice sequential black arete with a high first bolt and some balancy, sharp continuous moves. The crux is at the third bolt to easier climbing above.

Location
This is the 11th bolted line from the left(east) end of The North Side. It is the first bolted line to the right of Vasoconstrictor, it starts on a large belay shelf.

Protection
4 bolts to a 2 bolt chained anchor.

(12) Overlichen

5.11-

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Clark Mann, Bob Steuwe
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.11-
Length:	45 feet

Description
Just around the corner from a greenish/licheny face is a slightly overhung route with huge holds. Begins from a large ledge.

Location
See photo (someone will need to help with labeling)

Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

(13) Chocolate Thunder

5.11+

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Bob D'Antonio, Cam Burns
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.11+
Length:	45 feet

Description
Climb a dirty (not enough traffic) arete on small pockets.

Location
Just right of Overlichen.

Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor [with no lowering hardware].

(14) Hammertime

5.12

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Bob D'Antonio, Mike McGill
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.12
Length:	45 feet

Description
A steep face climb on (you guessed it) pockets.

Location
Just right of Chocolate Thunder.

Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

(15) Citizen of Time

5.11+

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Bob D'Antonio, Patrick French
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.11+
Length:	45 feet

Description
Another north side sport route. Gets very little traffic.

Location
15 feet right of Hammertime.

Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

(15.1) Crisis In Utopia

5.10d

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Peter Gram and Susie Murphy
Type:	Trad
Consensus:	5.10+
Length:	1 pitch, 50 feet

Description
This is an awesome finger crack up a left leaning open book that is very clean for the meat of the route. It starts via a fifth class scramble up to the crack proper. The bottom and top sections can be technically, a little cruxy. It remains fairly continuous at the grade, but the endurance crux is about 2/3rds of the way up. Can you say finger locks? This stellar route deserves to see a lot more traffic than it does. Go climb it!

Location
This is the obvious stunning finger crack in an open book directly to the left of Primal Scream.

Protection
Medium stoppers, a double set of Aliens, and a few runners, get you to a two bolt chained anchor.

(15.1) Crisis In Utopia : On his way to a solid onsight, Mike Wheat makes the moves on Crisis In Utopia. March 2009.

(16) Primal Scream

5.12a

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Bob D'Antonio, Mike McGill
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.12a
Length:	45 feet

Description
Climb choss to a bouldery start on top of a chossy block tower, as for Overkill, then left after 2nd bolt. Follow the overhanging prow with small pockets on the left and sidepulls right of the arete, with a reachy crux on a strange highstep to a horizontal crack after the 2nd-to-last bolt providing the crux.

This climb is shaded, even in summer evenings.

Location
Primal Scream is just right of the nice-looking crack Crisis in Utopia. The start as the same as for Overkill, but go left after the 2nd bolt.

Protection
6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. (The guidebook says 5 bolts but there are 6.)

The 2-bolt anchor at the top doesn't have chains or slings to rappel from. Carefully, step over to the anchor for Overkill, or reach down from the top edge to get your gear.

(17) Overkill

5.11-

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Bob D'Antonio, Cam Burns
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.11-
Length:	45 feet

Description
Scramble up some choss, then a steep face route with a crux moving past the 2nd bolt as you make moves off of a blocky tower and into the shallow dihedral above. Step right and climb the fun pocketed face.

This climb is shaded until late evening.

Protection
6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

(18) Lubme

5.12-

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Bob D'Antonio, Cam Burns
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.12-
Length:	45 feet

Description
Clip the first bolt of Putterman Gully Jump, then head up and leftwards.

Location
Start as for Putterman Gully Jump

Protection
5 bolts, anchor?

(19) Biomechanoid

5.12a

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Peter Gram and Nils Gram
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.12a
Length:	1 pitch, 65 feet

Description
This often overlooked and unknown arete is perhaps the best route at Overlook, and it never sees traffic. Start on chossy slab to the first bolt of Lubeme then continue straight up the overhanging arete and crank like there is no tomorrow up some technical arete moves until you reach the anchors. This route has the feel of the aretes at Below The Old New Place, so it is a little out of character for the north side. Continuous at the grade.

Location
1st bolted line to the left of Putterman Gully Jump.

Protection
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor that needs rap gear.

(20) Putterman Gully Jump

5.9+ PG13

New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : North/West side

FA:	Cameron Burns and Mike Schillaci, 1990
Type:	Sport
Consensus:	5.10a
Length:	1 pitch, 65 feet

Description
Clip the first bolt of Lubeme then trend right into a gully with a lot of thin face moves that are pretty continuous for the grade. This might be considered a sandbag by many, but it is still an OK route. The crux is getting into the gully and then the exit to the anchors.

Location
This is the furthest bolted route to the right(west) end of the North Side of Overlook.

Protection
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. May need rap gear.