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South/East side


New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook
Elevation: 6400 
Description
Sunny and warm in the morning through early afternoon. Many great bolted face routes and enjoyable gear-protected crack routes to bolted anchors. Winter climbing is often done here on nice days.

Top ropes can be set up from the top on almost all the routes on this wall.

The climbs are numbered from left to right, in the order you'll pass them on the approach, and coincide with the beta photo

Getting There
Follow directions for the main area, The Overlook.


South/East side : The South/East side of The Overlook. (I couldn't fit the route names/grades in anywhere so refer to the route descriptions here for corresponding number.)



(01) Bosker Boozeroo 

5.11a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Cameron Burns, Paul Fehlau
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a
Length: 60 feet
Season: year roud
Description
An enjoyable, overhanging arete route with holds on both sides of the arete. The crux comes between bolts 4 and 5 when pulling over the top of the arete.
FAs rated this 5.11a but general consensus now is 5.10d.

Location
This is the first route one encounters when approaching the wall via the standard trail down. Shown as route number 1 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
7 bolts to bolted anchor.


(01) Bosker Boozeroo : Rob Rhine on Bosker Boozeroo



(02) Squeeze Chimney 

5.10+ PG13

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+
Length: 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
A little dirty and loose down low but decent up higher. Seems easier than the 5.10+ rating.

Location
This is the crack/chimney just right of Bosker Boozeroo. Shown as route number 2 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Gear to number 2 and 3 camalots to bolted anchor.



(02.5) Boy What Nice Fellows 

5.11b PG13

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b
Length: 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
Start as for Squeeze Chimney but then move right up the steep face with obvious crack and then move back left to anchor for Squeeze Chimney or right to anchor for Boy What Assholes. Not done too often (I've never seen it climbed) and mostly likely done as a TR from Boy What Assholes.

I'd welcome a better route description if you've climbed this one.

Location
Just right of "Squeeze Chimney".

Protection
TR or gear to #4 camalot possibly. Looks like dubious gear down low.



(03) Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) 

5.10b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Schillaci, Nordlandr, Burns, Fehlau, Gram, Beguin, Rutherford and your mother
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10
Length: 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
The bolted, rounded arete climb. Staying straight on the bolt line is best but many bail out to the right, at least at the start, to make it easier.

Location
First bolted line right of Squeeze Chimney. Shown as route number 3 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Five bolts to a bolted chain anchor.



(04) 5.8 Crack (a.k.a. Dirty Bomb) 

5.8 PG13

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 50 feet
Season: year round
Description
A often dirty, rarely climbed crack line just right of Boy What Assholes...

Location
The obvious, fairly dirty crack right of "Boy What Assholes..." Shown as route number 4 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Small to Medium gear. Might be able to use anchors on the bolted climbs just to the right or left.


(04) 5.8 Crack (a.k.a. Dirty Bomb) : Unknown climber on Boy What Nice Fellows-5.9



(04.5) Unknown Bolted Face 

5.11c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Mike Schillaci ~1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11c
Length: 50 feet
Description
The short, bolted face route to the right of Boy What Assholes... but left of Paul's Boutique would be a good climb if it weren't so dirty.

Location
This is the bolted face right of "Boy What Assholes..." and left of the arete route "Paul's Boutique".

Protection
4 bolts to shared anchors with "Paul's Boutique". The first bolt is super high; its wise to bring some gear for the first 20 feet.


(04.5) Unknown Bolted Face : I'm pretty sure this was the first time I'd ever seen anyone on this route.



(05) Paul's Boutique 

5.11b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Burns, Schillaci
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b
Length: 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
Very nice arete route with hard, thins moves down low to more enjoyable climbing above on the arete. Neat mono undercling between the first and second bolts in a pocket that feels really sharp if you use more than one finger. Route tends to be dirty as it is a natural run-off line during rain storms.

Location
The first prominent bolted arete line you'll find when you climb up on the lower boulder/wall. (That's not a great sentence but it'll make sense when you're down there. I think.) Shown as route number 5 on the Overlook route topo photo. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress.

Protection
5 bolts to bolted anchor. Most all of the bolts are spinners or loose and would be fine candidates for replacement.



(06) Headwall Crack Left 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Len Margolin, 1971
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8
Length: 55 feet
Description
Super fun jamming and stemming in the corner left of the bolted climb No Exit and just right of Paul's Boutique. The crack eats up pro so this is a good lead for those just learning to place pro.

Location
The corner left of the bolted climb "No Exit" and just right of "Paul's Boutique. Shown as route number 6 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
In this order: #8 BD nut, #.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #1 camalot, #2 camalot and a 3 and/or 4 for the finish to bolted anchor. :-)


(06) Headwall Crack Left : Overlook



(07) No Exit 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Chris Vandiver, Lee Sheftel & Rick Smith, 10/89
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.12a/b
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Season: year round
Description
As the name implies, the crux of the route is the exit to the anchor. If the anchor was at the lip, the route would likely be rated 5.11.

Slabby, runout edge climbing on 5.7ish terrain to the way-high (15') first bolt leads to 5.10ish climbing up to the hard, overhanging finishing headwall. The crux is pulling over the top to the very highly placed anchors.

This route doesn't see much traffic and tends to stay very dirty because it's a natural rain run-off line.

Location
Bolted line in the middle of the face left of the Cholla Wall face route. The steep, overhanging headwall at the top is obvious. Shown as route number 7 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
5 bolts to bolted anchor. The overhanging crux is very well protected. Watch out for the z-clip!


(07) No Exit : Heading into the overhanging crux of No Exit.



(08) Headwall Crack Right 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 50 feet
Season: year round
Description
The crack/corner to the right of No Exit. Gets steeper and wider at top but good holds can be found in the reaches of the crack.

Location
This is the crack/corner to the right of the bolted face route, (07) No Exit. Shown as route number 8 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Medium to large gear to bolted anchor.



(09) Double Vision / Ream Dream 

5.11c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Rick Smith, Lee Sheftel & Chris Vandiver, 10/89
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11b/c
Length: 1 pitch, 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
Straight up the steep, pocketed face right of No Exit and left of Cholla Wall. Tough lower section to first bolt and then it doesn't let up. Route doesn't see a lot of traffic so the holds aren't as obvious as they are on neighboring climbs.
Staying on the face is 5.11c. Using the arete on the right makes is 5.10d-ish.

Location
The steep, pocketed face right of "No Exit" and left of "Cholla Wall". Shown as route number 9 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
5 bolts to a bolted anchor.


(09) Double Vision / Ream Dream : Rob Rhine on Double Vision. Nice lycra.



(10) Cholla Wall 

5.10a/b PG13

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Barlow?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a/b
Length: 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
One of the finer routes at The Overlook. A nicely pocketed, sustained face route. It is a very popular top-rope and a proud gear lead because of the tricky gear placements in pockets. By longtime, documented agreement by local climbers do not bolt this face route.
The route gets its name from a Cholla cactus that used to be at the base of the route that pricked many climbers that came off the rock at the start. The cholla disappeared a few years ago.


Location
The sweet, pocketed face with no bolts! Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress

Protection
Small to medium cams (up to #1 camalot) and tri-cams for the pockets. Chain anchor at top.


(10) Cholla Wall : Eyeballing the top-out jugs while moving through the steep crux moves on Cholla Wall. December 2008.



(11) Cholla Crack 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 50 feet
Season: year round
Description
The nice finger to hand to off-width crack just right of Cholla Wall and left of Holy Wall. Fun and secure jamming down low leads to some insecure off-width crux near the top.

Location
The finger to hand to off-width crack just right of "Cholla Wall" and left of "Holy Wall". Shown as route number 11 on the Overlook route topo photo. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress.

Protection
Medium to large gear. A #4 camalot is nice near the top. Bolted anchor.



(12) Holy Wall 

5.10a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Burns, Fehlau
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.10-
Length: 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
An extremely pocketed and chalked-up face route with thin feet past the first bolt and nice, steep climbing above. Bolt line moves right-ish but the route can be climbed left of the bolt line at about the same grade.
Almost too many pockets to choose from!

Location
The very obvious pocketed route with tons of chalked up holds. Shown as route number 12 on the Overlook route topo photo. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress.

Protection
5 bolts to chain anchors. Note there are two sets of anchors for this climb--one can be accessed from the top for TRing and the other, lower chains, are used when leading.


(12) Holy Wall : Leading up Holy Wall in January 2007. Look at all those pockets!



(13) Holy Crack 

5.9+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9+
Length: 40 feet
Description
Thin finger climbing down low and some more tricky crack climbing above. Gear placements are a bit tricky as well.

Location
The crack right of Holy Wall but left of Dave's Face. Shown as route lucky number 13 on the Overlook route topo photo. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress.

Protection
Kinda funky pro placements. Small cams (BD .3 to .5) and some medium cams (BD .75 to 2) up higher. Rap rings anchor.



(14) Dave's Face 

5.10c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Burns, Schillaci, Fehlau (perhaps TR'd earlier by Barlow?)
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.10+
Length: 60 feet
Season: year round
Description
Thin face climbing that requires more technique and trust than power. Crux comes around last bolt and to the anchors. The route can be started from atop the boulder/wall or from below the boulder/wall. Starting down low makes for a run-out to the first bolt but the climbing is fairly easy.

Location
Face route right of Holy Wall and Holy Crack. Shown as route number 14 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Five bolts to chain anchor. Accessed by the easy scrambling on top of the Lower Buttress below the main wall. Anchor can be reached from the top to set a TR if you're really desperate and cautious but best to sling the boulders for a TR anchor.


(14) Dave's Face : Making it look easy on a fine winter day. January 2009.



(15) Way Beyond Zebra 

5.11b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Cam Burns, Steve Provonost, Mike Makely
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11-
Length: 65 feet
Season: year round
Description
An awesome, steep face route. It is, dare I say, overbolted, making for a safe sport lead and great first 5.11 sport lead for the aspirant. Crux seems to be near the last bolt at the steepening terrain. The last bolt is often skipped by leaders not wanting to pump-out trying to clip it.
The route has two anchors--one set accessed from the top for TRing and one set lower for leading.

Location
This is the long face around the corner right of Dave's Face and left of Polly's Crack. Shown as route number 15 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
8 bolts to chain anchors.



(16) Polly's Crack 

5.8+

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Polly Hessing, 1971 ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8+
Length: 60 feet
Season: year round
Description
A sweet dihedral/open book crack route. Nice fingers and hands with enjoyable stemming all the way. Start up less than desirable rock and pull a tough bulge/roof to get established in the corner. Stem and jam your way up.

Location
The obvious corner right of Way Beyond Zebra. Shown as route number 16 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Small to large nuts and cams. Big stuff at top just before the chain anchors. Can be set as TR from the top.


(16) Polly's Crack : Jammin' and stemmin' gets it done.



(17) Thief in Time 

5.12d

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Chris Vandiver, Lee Sheftel
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.12d
Length: 60 feet
Season: year round
Description
The steep face just right of Polly's Crack. Very thin, very pumpy face climbing on small holds. Supposedly grabbing the left edge of the face makes it "only" 5.12b.
Admittedly, I've never climbed this route but wanted it on MountainProject for continuity's sake. If you have better description of the route, let me or the NM admins know and it's all yours.

Location
The bolted face immediately right of "Polly's Crack". Shown as route number 17 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
6 bolts to bolted anchor.



(18) RDD Crack (a.k.a. Unknown) 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8-
Length: 60 feet
Season: year round
Description
Radiological Dispersal Device crack is the crack/off-width right of Thief in Time. It's better than it might appear. Some stemming down low with a fun, airy step out right to the face up high.

Location
The crack line right of the face route "Thief in Time". If memory serves there's some spray-painted graffiti near the start? Shown as route number 18 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Medium to large gear to shared anchors with Face Off.



(19) Narcissistic Dream 

5.11b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11a/b
Length: 60 feet
Description
Start up easy but chossy and sketchy rock aiming for the nice finger crack on the overhanging face just left of Face Off. Avoid unprotected, chossy climbing by staying left of the unappealing rock (and maybe even place a .4 camalot in the crack to the left to be sure) and then move into the crack. Tiny cams go in initially with opportunity for .3 and .4 camalots above.

Once through the cruxy finger crack, grab good face holds and pockets on lower-angle terrain past three bolts to the shared anchor with Face Off.

Location
The obvious, overhanging finger crack just left of Face Off but right of "RDD Crack". Shown as route number 19 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Small gear in crack down low (C3s up to .4 camalots), three bolts up high on the face to bolted anchor shared with Face Off.



(20) Face Off 

5.12a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Lee Sheftel, Chris Vandiver & Rick Smith, 10/89
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.12a
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Season: year round
Description
A fantastic steep, thin face route. For most it requires a sequence. Careful not to tweak your fingers on this one.
The steep face is obvious with its chalk-marked, tiny holds.

Scramble up easy rock to the high first bolt and move up to the second bolt as the rock starts to steepen. Pull past the thin flake holds to a good two-finger pocket next to the third bolt. More thin, steep moves lead past the fourth bolt. It's sustained all the way to the sixth bolt but above that you finally get to rest before cruising the easier terrain to the top.

Location
Steep face right of Thief in Time and "RDD Crack". Shown as route number 20 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
7 bolts to a bolted anchor.


(20) Face Off : Carlo Torres, aged 16, pulling down on Face Off circa 1990. Pic by Cammo.



(21) Unknown 

5.10a

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a
Length: 60 feet
Description
The crack route just right of Face Off is loose down low and low angle and easy up high.
Climb loose and easy choss down low. Steep moves over small or tricky-to-place gear lets you reach the start of a hand crack. Steep moves in the hand crack or to jugs on either side are powerful and let you reach a 2nd parallelling crack. It is easier above as the climb becomes much less steep.

Location
The crack to face route just right of "Face Off"

Protection
Usually toproped from bolted anchor.
Can be led with various gear from small nuts to hand-size cams. Creatively-placed micronuts, hexes, or tri-cams is helpful to protect the first hard move or two; then you get a good hand-size cam placement, followed by protectable finger/hand cracks.



(22) M.C. Epic 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9-
Length: 60 feet
Season: year round
Description
A chossy start leads through a steep, wide crack to nice crack climbing above.

Location
Left of Captain Smarmbag. Shown as route number 22 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Medium to large gear to bolted anchor.



(22.5) Unknown 

5.10d

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10d
Length: 60 feet
Season: year round
Description
Chossy stuff down low through a small roof thingy to decent face climbing above.

Location
Right of M.C. Epic and left of Captain Smarmbag. Shown between routes 22 and 23 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
TR



(23) Captain Smarmbag 

5.9-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9
Length: 60 feet
Season: year round
Description
Chossy start to steep crack/mini-roof with big jug then nice, easy crack climbing above.

Location
Left of Donde Estan Mis Pantalones. Shown as route number 23 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Medium gear down low, smaller stuff up high. Bolted anchor.



(23.5) Donde Estan Mis Pantalones 

5.11c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Walt Wehner and Jason Chen
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 60 feet
Season: year round
Description
Not as bad as it looks from below, but still contrived. First bolt is pretty useless - it should have been moved about four feet up onto a solid looking portion of the roof. Mental crux is reaching the high second bolt after some moderately hard moves. Breath easier, then fire through a not-so-obvious sequence up to a bomber rest near the third bolt. Then climb the cool, relatively clean 5.8/5.9 face to the chains.

There are multiple wats to pull the crux bulge. Going straight up is super powerful but with pretty good holds; heading left is more finesse and balancy (and probably the only 5.11 way to do it).



Location
Left of Box Overhang Left

Protection
6 bolts to a bolted anchor.



(24) Box Overhang Left 

5.9-

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9-
Length: 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
Nice underclinging/laybacking takes you through the left side of the large roof known as Len's Roof. In recent years the undercling/laybacking section has gotten pretty nasty from bat feces.

Location
The route passing through the left side of the large, obvious roof on the right side of the main wall. Shown as route number 24 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Medium to large gear to bolted anchor.



(25) Len's Roof 

5.11b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Len Margolin, ~1972 (TR)
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.11
Length: 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
Strenuous, painful hand jamming out the crack in the center of the big roof leads to easier crack climbing above. The roof (and the entire route) protect well with hand-size cams. The crux is getting your feet up and around the lip of the roof. Go figure out the trick yourself.

Location
This route follows the hand crack in the center of the huge, obvious roof on the right side of the main wall. Shown as route number 25 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
1 or 2 each #1 and #2 camalots, for the crux; and a #3 camalot.
Tape is recommended.
Most people will not want to place any pro before the roof, and if you're ok with running it out on the 5.4 above the roof, you don't need any cams bigger than #3 camalot or any nuts or any small cams.


(25) Len's Roof : Ken Cohegan



(25.5) Overture 

5.12b/c

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Chris Vandiver, Rick Smith & Lee Sheftel, 10/89
Type: TR
Consensus: 5.12b/c
Length: 1 pitch, 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
The original guide for The Overlook has this to say about this route: "A contrived slag-pile. Climb three bolts out the right side of the roof but don't grab the cracks to the left or right. Ultra lame."
The bolts have since been chopped.

Location
Between Len's Roof and Box Overhang Right.

Protection
TR



(26) Box Overhang Right 

5.8

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Mike Roybal, 1971
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8-
Length: 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
Jam the crack and use the face pockets to surmount the large roof to the right. If you know where the good holds are, it's pretty easy. Then enjoy easier climbing above to a bolted anchor.

Location
This route surmounts the right side of the large, obvious roof on the right end of the main wall. Shown as route number 26 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Medium to large gear to a bolted anchor.


(26) Box Overhang Right : The Trug Jr. on lead with The Trug Sr. on belay duty.



(27) On Beyond Zebra 

5.12b

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Peter Gram (December 1989)
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.12b
Length: 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
Climb up the face right of Box Overhang Right but stay on the face & arete and don't get tempted by the nice crack to the right!

Location
On the face right of "Box Overhang Right". Shown as route number 27 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
A few bolts to a bolted anchor. Mostly just top-roped or avoided. Only the hardmen are up for leading this. I haven't seen it led.


(27) On Beyond Zebra : Peter Gram on an early ascent of the route in December 1989. Photo taken by Cam Burns, cammo



(28) Sensuous S 

5.9

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9-
Length: 50 feet
Season: year round
Description
Surmount the roof at the start by pulling on the large block that looks like it'll pull out yet stays put and then climb the steepening crack with nice stemming moves.

Location
This is the crack route between On Beyond Zebra and Thorazine Dream. Shown as route number 28 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Medium to large gear to bolted anchor.



(29) Thorazine Dream 

5.11d

  
New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side
FA: Tom MacFarlane, Brian Riepe, 8/89
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11d
Length: 1 pitch, 55 feet
Season: year round
Description
Step up to the small roof and clip the first bolt. Pull the roof with a tenuous mantle-type move to really get going. Climb the thin, slabby face past a couple more bolts to a nice no-hands rest ledge. Then gun it through the steep, technical face climbing, using a nice mono pocket along the way through the short, pronounced crux past three more bolts to the anchors. Definitely a sequence to it.

Location
This is the right-most route on the main wall. Shown as route number 29 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection
Used to be just two bolts then a small gear placement in a horizontal crack before the steep, bolted face with three more bolts to a bolted anchor. However, sometime in the past few years (early 2000s?) a third bolt near the horizontal crack was placed by an unknown driller.


(29) Thorazine Dream : Allison pulling hard on the mono through the crux.