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Classic Climbs for Utah



Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah.
 
Double Arch-Arches N.P.
Photo by Blitzo.


The Top 50 Classics for Utah


Name Rating Type Location

Steorts' Ridge

5.6

Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet

Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag

Outside Corner

5.7

Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet

Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall

Beckey's Wall

5.7

Trad, 3 pitches, 160 feet

Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : ... : Beckey's Wall Area

Spaceshot

5.7 C2

Aid, 8 pitches, 800 feet, Grade IV

Zion National Park : Leaning Wall

Satan's Corner

5.8

Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet

Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : ... : Dihedrals Area

Lowe Route

5.8

Trad, 3 pitches

Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall

North Chimney

5.8

Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III

Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower

Pentapitch

5.8

Trad

Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area

The Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid)

5.8 C1

Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade V

Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress

Prodigal Sun

5.8 C2

Aid, 9 pitches, 900 feet, Grade V

Zion National Park : Angel's Landing

The Coffin

5.9

Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet

Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress

The Green Adjective

5.9

Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet

Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar...

Kor-Ingalls Route

5.9

Trad, Grade III

Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower

Touchstone Wall

5.9 C2

Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, 820 feet, Grade V

Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme

Gordon's Hangover, Original Start

5.9+

Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet

Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar...

Flakes of Wrath

5.9+

Trad, TR

Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street

Sasquatch

5.9+

Trad

Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area

Generic Crack

5.9+

Trad

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon

Triple Overhangs

5.10a

Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet

Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall

Mexican Crack

5.10a

Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet

Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress

Blue Sun

5.10-

Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo

Supercrack of the Desert

5.10

Trad

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress

Stolen Chimney

5.10

Trad

Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art

Jah Man

5.10

Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II

Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group

3AM Crack

5.10

Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress

Lunar Ecstasy

5.10 C2+

Aid, 9 pitches, Grade V

Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress

Goodro's Wall

5.10c

Trad, 1 pitch

Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : ... : Storm Mountain Island

Incredible Hand Crack

5.10c

Trad

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress

Fine Jade

5.11a

Trad, 5 pitches, Grade III

Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory

Honeymoon Chimney

5.11a

Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III

Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest

Desert Shield

5.11a C3

Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000 feet, Grade V

Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress

Lightning Bolt Cracks

5.11-

Trad, Grade III

Moab Area : Indian Creek : North Six Shooter Peak

Pente

5.11-

Trad

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall

North Face

5.11b

Trad, Grade III

Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower

Sinestra

5.11

Trad

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall

The Big Baby

5.11

Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres...

Excuse Station

5.11

Trad

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Reservoir Wall

Scarface

5.11

Trad

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface

Top Sirloin

5.11

Trad, 3 pitches, 130 feet

Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall

Anunnaki

5.11c

Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Optimator

Arm and Hammer

5.11c

Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III

Wasatch Range : Bell's Canyon : Middle Bell Tower

Primrose Dihedrals

5.11+

Trad, 7 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV

Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses

Spaghetti Western

5.11+

Trad

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped

King Cat

5.11+

Trad

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall

9 Lives

5.12a

Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall

Coyne Crack

5.12a

Trad

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress

Namaste

5.12a

Sport, 1 pitch, 140 feet

Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork

Way Rambo

5.12-

Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet

Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo

Huecos Rancheros

5.12c

Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet

Zion National Park : Kolob Canyon : South Fork

The Moonlight Buttress (Free)

5.12d

Trad, 10 pitches, 1200 feet

Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress