Ice Climbing Basics: The Tripod
If youve ever tried ice climbing and got so pumped you couldnt even reach the top of the route, youre not alone. As with any discipline, finding and maintaining the correct body position is what its all about. Last December, I headed up to the Bozeman Ice Climbing...
Berne Broudy at Climbing Magazine
Select and Tune Your Ice Gear
In ice climbing, as in life, being dull isn't cool. A dull edge, whether a crampon point or an ice tool pick, takes more effort to drive into the ice. Blunt tools also feel considerably less secure and shatter more ice, sending debris down upon your belayer. If you find y...
Ian Osteyee at Climbing Magazine
Low-cost Rappels on Ice
Long rappel descents, whether planned or as a matter of sudden necessity when the weather goes bad or an injury occurs, can quickly turn into expensive ordeals when you have to leave a few pieces of gear at every rappel. Plus, you might need that gear later on. Fortunatel...
Blake Herrington at Climbing Magazine
50 Ways to Flail
I've been climbing for more than 15 years, and the mistakes I've made cover the gamut. My knot came partly untied while I was climbing at Joshua Tree; I've threaded my belay device backward; partway up El Capitan, my partner once completely unclipped me from a belay. Wors...
Laura Snider at Climbing Magazine
5 Exercises for Your Ice Climbing Endurance
Youve felt it countless times: the slow-burning, inevitable sensation that creeps up your forearms into your hands, affecting your grip and throwing you off the wallthe dreaded pump. In ice climbing, this affects the hold you have on your ice tools and your ability to...
Amanda Fox at Climbing Magazine
Train Indoors For Ice and Mixed Climbing
When it comes to training, rock climbers have it easy. Look online for countless articles on different ways to get stronger, and then work hard in the gym (and there seems to be a new one popping up on every corner) to get better on the rock. (See our favorite workouts at...
Leia Larsen at Climbing Magazine
How to Build a V-Thread Anchor
Rappelling on ice, when there are no manmade anchors, requires a bit of ingenuity. You can use ice screws or nuts/cams if theres rock, but then you are forced to leave your gear behind. Not only does this take a toll on your wallet and junk up the wilderness, but after ...
Cory Akin at Backcountry
How to Sharpen Your Ice Tools
An ice climber with a blunt set of picks on his ice tools is no different than a sushi chef trying to cut through a chunk of fine ahi tuna with a set of chopsticks. Bad form! Ice climbing is already miserable enough: Theres no reason to make the bitter, frozen, painful...
Andrew Bisharat at Backcountry
Managing Ropes on Snowy Ice Climbs
Rope loses 1/3 of its strength and much of its shock absorbing capability when wet. Water squeegees out of the belay/rappel device all over the climber. Wet ropes are heavy and hard to handle. Wet ropes become useless when they freeze solid. A quick note on dry treatment...
Bryan Ferguson at