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Thailand a climbing guide, Sam Lightner Jr.

Thailand: a climbing guide



Sam Lightner Jr, the Mountaineers Books First Edition 2005
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  • More than 350 sport routes, rated 1-5 stars for their appeal
  • Up-to-date post-tsunami information
  • Information on Thai history, culture, and geology, along with useful Thai language phrases

This new guide contains everything climbers need to make the most of Thailand, both on the rock and off. You'll find information on local transportation, lodging, sightseeing, guide schools, and gear shops, as well as how to preserve your gear from the wear and tear of warm salt water breezes, and much more. Most routes located on the Phra Nang Peninsula; also includes Koh Phi Phi, Chiang Mai, Laos and Andaman Sea locations.

Provides information on transportation, lodging, sightseeing, guide schools, gear shops and much more
thailandclimbingguide.com

100% of the profits from sales of Sam's guidebook goes toward the rebolting effort done in conjunction with the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA)
Rock Climbing in Northern Thailand

Rock Climbing in Northern Thailand



Josh Morris and Khaetthaleeya Uppakham, Nopburee Press copyright 2004
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  • Provides up-to-date information on Crazy Horse Buttress plus over 120 routes on 14 different buttresses
  • Offers travel tips on getting to Thailand, plus recommends hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, and bars
  • To help you connect to the culture, includes Thai culture guide, useful Thai language phrases and a list of Thai holidays and festivals
Climbing in Thailand

Climbing in Thailand



Wee Changrua and Elke Schmitz, Third edition 2006
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  • 220 pages. 100 climbing areas.
  • Over 80 easy-to-read topo maps.
  • Covers all of Railey and Ton Sai in Krabi over 50 areas.
  • Post-tsunami update on Ko Phi Phi.
  • NEW: Chapter on Deep Water Soloing.
  • All climbing areas in Laos and sidetrips in Malaysia.
  • Route recommendations for every grade level.
  • Indicates recently rebolted routes.
  • All you need to know before you go.


King Climbers route guide book

King Climbers: Route guide book



Somporn Suebhait(King), 5th Edition 2004
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Up to date and comprehensive guide book on rock climbing in Thailand. It includes Railay, Krabi and Phi Phi areas. Plus pretty colour pictures, useful top tips on surviving Thailand, and miscellaneous trivia. With over 700 routes it'll keep you busy for years.
The Whole Enchilada, A Climber's Guide to Potrero ...

The Whole Enchilada -- A Climber's Guide to Potrero Chico, Mexico



Dane Bass, Puma Press, February 2007, 248 pages.
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This is the latest and greatest comprehensive guide to Potrero Chico, hot off the press on February 20, 2007. Lots of useful introductory information about the area, driving in Mexico, bringing your pets, where to stay, where to eat, where to get help, etc. Includes information on more than 500 routes.

Lots of maps and photos with route lines drawn in to help you find your way around and get on the right route. A zero-to-three-star quality rating system will help you identify the classic climbs.

Unfortunately, the guide wasn't proofread very well and there are lots of typos and spelling errors, but that's not a serious problem.

If you only buy one Potrero Chico guide, this is the one to have.

Available for $26.95 at Posada's Restaurant: elpotrerochico.com.mx. Available on-line at potrerokrew.com.
Central BC Rock

Central BC Rock



Lyle Knight, Elaho Publishing
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Now a little out-of-date, but still the essential reference for the BC interior areas such as Yak Peak, Kelowna, and all the smaller crags that deserve attention but don't quite have the same draw as Skaha.
Scrambles in Southwest British Columbia

Scrambles in Southwest British Columbia



Matt Gunn
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A well put together guide to scrambling routes on many BC peaks.
Cover shot of Alpine Select: Climbs in Southwest B...

Alpine Select: Climbs in Southwest British Columbia & Northern Washington



Kevin McLane, Elaho Publishing
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As the title lays out, this is a book of select alpine climbs mainly in BC, but also a few in Washington. The book is interesting for being divided into a section covering all of the approaches and another covering all of the climbs. McLane writes to a high standard and this book is no exception.

There are some fairly accessible day climbs in here as well as some monsters. Would you believe that there's a 37 pitch rock route only a few hours from Vancouver?
Whistler Rock Climbs cover shot.

Whistler Rock Climbs



Elaho
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Covers the crags from just north of Squamish to north of Whistler with McLane's usual excellent quality.
Skaha guidebook cover shot.

Skaha Rockclimbs



Howie Richardson, Elaho Publishing
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Your essential reference for Skaha. Don't forget, however, that access has changed significantly as of 2007, so check with up-to-date sources rather than going by what this book has to say.
Bugaboos Rock guide book cover shot.

Bugaboo Rock: A Climbing Guide, 2nd Edition



Randall Green and Joe Bensen, The Mountaineers Books
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One of two Bugaboos guide books published in 2003.
Cover shot for The Bugaboos guide book.

The Bugaboos - One of the World's Great Alpine Rockclimbing Centres



Chris Atkinson and Marc Piché, Eleho Publishing
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One of two Bugaboos guide books published in 2003.
Front Cover

Rock Climbing in Snowdonia



Paul Williams - Frances Lincoln New Ed edition (July 19, 2006)
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Even though it's a select there's a big collection of routes in this guide, and not just the total classics - more than enough for a climber making a vacation visit. Due to space constraints the descriptions are not as colorful as the individual guidebooks, but it's great value.

A must have for anyone interested.

Paul Williams was a well-known rock climber and mountain photographer. He died at the age of 49 in a climbing accident on Froggatt Edge in 1995.
Front cover (paperback)

The Mountain Men



Alan Hankinson - out of print do a web search.
I love this book.

Here's a review by Colin Wells of On The Edge Magazine (posted at planetFear.com):

What’s the gist?
Eccentric elements of the late Victorian & Edwardian bourgeoisie invent mad new British sport one drizzly Easter bank holiday. It involves slimy gullies, waxed moustaches, Meerschaum pipes, and standing on each others’ shoulders in a manfully, but vaguely homo-erotic way. Rock climbing is born!
Are they any good?
In other hands, the narrative could have been as dry as a gentleman’s snuff box but ex-ITN newshound Hankinson employs his journalistic skills to great effect, bringing the landscape and the characters of the protean Edwardian climbing scene come alive as if it were but yesterday. The Mountain Men recalls the hard nuts who grappled with the Welsh volcanic battlements of Snowdonia, which is both educational and entertaining.
Costa Daurada by Mark Glaister and Emma Medara

Costa Daurada



by Mark Glaister and Emma Medara Rockfax
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Costa Daurada is a select book covering the crags of the Sierra del Prades, including Siurana. This book is far from comprehensive, but with nearly 200 routes, it probably has enough to keep most folks busy for a short vacation, and is a better option than the spartan & expensive local guide. This book offers star ratings, text descriptions (for some of the routes) & photographs, unlike the local guide, which states only the name & grade of each route. As a Rockfax guide, it is entirely in English.

Unfortunately the guide is rather out of date (published in 2002), and omits several excellent crags, most noteably La Siuranella, El Cargol, & L'Isabel. This book is intended for international travelers, and therefore offers some useful travel beta. A good choice for the budget-minded traveler planning to visit multiple crags, or only planning a few days at Siurana.
Rock Climbing Europe by Stewart Green

Rock Climbing Europe



Stewart Green, Falcon Guides
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Rock Climbing Europe is the perfect starting point for Americans on their way to Europe. The book is far from comprehensive, so ensure that your destination is included before laying out $40 or so. If your destination is included, expect explicit, robust, American-style route descriptions (a rarity in European guides) & photo-topos, all prefaced with a good deal of "Lonely Planet"-style traveler information. The book also follows the Falcon Guide system of providing tips on lodging/camping and where to find amenities in the local area. The book is encyclopedic is size, so you may want to xerox the key sections if you're going for a short trip.
Europe Sport Vertical

Europe - Sport Vertical



By David Atchison-Jones, Jingo Wobbly Publishing
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This is an overview book that sets out to list every single crag on the European continent a la Tim Toula's "Rock N' Road". Intended for a broad audience of various languages, the book uses an absurdly complex assortment of symbols & numbers to "describe" each crag without the use of text. The book is in full color, with plentiful glossy photos of various crags. This isn't a guidebook in the classic sense, but it can be a good way to learn about the locations & raw statistics of the multitude of little known crags in Europe. The book indicates number of routes, height of cliff, length of approach, sun exposure, and relative quality for more than 2600 sport, bouldering & alpine crags. The book also points you in the direction of the pertinent local guidebooks. Its a nice reference book, but probably not too useful once you're on the road. Set it on the coffee table or near your procelain throne for a few minutes of inspiration when the local weather is bad.
Rock N Road by Tim Toula.

Rock N Road



Tim Toula, Falcon Publishing
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Rock N Road: An Atlas of North American Climbing Areas, is a comprehensive listing of every chunk of protruding stone on the continent. This is not a typical guidebook: there are no topos or route descriptions and only a few photos. Instead, the atlas provides a paragraph or two on each destination, with quality ratings, stats on number of climbs, and a list of the best routes. This is an essential reference item for those in search of new or less-documented crags.
Aga

"AGA" A Climbing Guide for Okinawa



Emmanuel Eman Lacoste
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Aga
Aga



"AGA" is Okinawa first comprehensive guidebook for rock climbers. Aga is the first English guidebook to any of Japan's climbing destination. The book covers Okinawa, Japan climbing with full route and topos for six of the islands climbing routes and directions to lesser known bouldering and climbing areas around the island 100's of routes listed. Hand Drawn Topos helps climbers identify specific routes.
Exrem cover

Schweiz Extrem West



Filidor
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Areas currently in MP:
Lehn
Lungern
Schillingsflüe

From the author:

In the Fall of 2009, after weeks had passed since the final copies of „Schweiz extrem, Band 1“ were sold out and a re-printing was imminent, I began work on the publication of the updated climbing guidebook which is here newly presented as „Schweiz extrem WEST“. The past months were interesting and educational. Though I was met with many new and invigorating experiences, I had hurdles to overcome as well. The workload behind the publishing of a guidebook of this caliper was unimaginable to me at the time. I also felt an obligation to maintain the same topo publishing standard established by Filidor in the past and continue the diligent research of the areas.
The impressive limestone walls of the Wenden with its annual international draw of so many ambitious climbers from all over the world convinced me to focus on this amazing climbing destination. Over 50 routes (many new since the previous edition) on the Wenden are included here. The Bernese Oberland and The Valais has innumerous sport climbing areas within a small region. Next to the classic and well known areas, new and exciting climbing areas are being discovered and getting developed. “Bolti“, for example, has so many routes to choose from, all with a casual approach time of less than 3 minutes! It takes a bit more time and effort to approach routes like the “Doldophin“ on the impressive SE face of the Doldenhorn, but absolute awesome alpine ambience is guaranteed.
I hope with this new edition of the guidebook in hand, you are inspired for the upcoming climbing season and have a great time climbing. Most importantly, have fun!
Jura

Plaisir Jura



Filidor
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Areas currently in MP:
Balsthal - Brückenwand
Balsthal - Klus
Moutier
Schauenburgflue

Guidebook in German, French, and English. Covers a broad range of the Jura climbs, including some areas in France and Germany.

Valsertal



Panico
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Areas currently in MP:
Zervreilahorn

Very nice book for a relatively small area, the Valstertal region of Grabünden. All alpine (sport)climbing. High-quality book with pre-made topo cards to pull out for specific climbs.
Gastlosen cover

Gastlosen.ch



Edigast
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A comprehensive guide with very nice combination of photos and drawings to direct you to the right area (and then sub area, and then the peak..)

Plaisir Sud



Filidor
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Areas currently in MP:
Arcegno
Ponte Brolla

Ticino/Tessin and northern Italy sport climbing. I've only used the older edition, but quite decent area topos and easy to decipher. In German/French/Italian.
West cover

Plaisir West



Filidor
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Areas currently in MP:
Eldorado
Gastlosen
Hintisberg
Sanetsch

Sport and alpine climbing in Western Switzerland, from Interlaken to Valais.

Plaisir Ost



Filidor
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Areas currently in MP:
Äscher
Bockmattli
Cheselenflue
Ofen
Melchsee-Frutt
Weesen
Zervreilahorn

Eastern Switzerland sport and alpine climbing for areas predominantly 6b and under.
GLclimbs

GLclimbs



Glclimbs
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Areas currently in MP:
Weesen

A labor of love by Glarner locals. Beautiful photo topos, very useful for figuring out where the heck you are. Focus on the big routes in the Glarner Alps, also with detailed info for sport climbing areas like Weesen and Mettmenalp.

Guidebook



Aris Theodoropoulos / Terrain
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Aris Theodoropoulos has done an astounding job on the guidebook. I'd venture to say it is the best guide I've seen. You can get one in Massouri at many of the climbing and tourist shops. If you want to study it ahead of time go to:
climbkalymnos.com/
Aris is active on the forums and new routes are listed there.
BUY THE BOOK! Leave it on the coffee table, display it in a Argon filled glass case... whatever you want - just buy it.
Tongariro Guidebook

Tongariro: a guide for climbers and ski-mountaineers



Richard Thomson
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A comprehensive guide to Rock Climbing and Mountaineering in Tongariro National Park.
Tongariro Guidebook
Tongariro Guidebook

Newfoundland Climbing Guide



Leo van Ulden
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Newfoundland climbing guide for rock and ice.

Li Ming Rock



Mike Dobie
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The guidebook documenting the development of Li Ming.

Guide d'escalade du Grand-Morne



Nico & Cie Les éditions La Randonnée

95 pages
Available at MEC, La Cordée and through the FQME

Guide d'escalade en Estrie



Bernard Mailhot Les éditions La Randonnée

Covers:
Mont Pinacle
Lac Larouche (Closed)
Grand Morne
Bistro des Trois Lacs (Closed)
Mont Carré (Closed)
Mont St-Grégoire (Closed)

82 pages

Available at MEC, La Cordée, through the FQME and other climbing stores.

Escalade au Mont-Orford



JIDÉ et Cie Les éditions La Randonnée

Covers:
Parc du Mont Orford
96 pages

Available at MEC, La Cordée, through the FQME and other climbing stores.

North of Superior - Orient Bay Ice Climber's Guide



Shaun Parent - Granite Publishing - 1993
If you can get your hands on a copy of this book you'll be happy!

Parois d'escalade du Saguenay



By: Pierre-Yves Plourde & François-Xavier Garneau Published by: Les Éditions JCL
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ISBN: 978-2-89431-364-0
140 X 216 mm (5,5 X 8,5 po)
434 pages
November 2006

Guide des cascades de glace et voies mixtes au Québec



Stéphane Lapierre et Bernard Gagnon Les éditions La Randonnée


Covers all of Quebec, updates are normally available online on the FQME website, but it seems misplaced for now.
528 pages

Available at MEC, La Cordée, through the FQME and other climbing stores.

Guide d'Escalade de Lanaudière (Roche et Glace)



Jean Claude Néolet (2009)+updates
Available at La Cordée, Montain Equipment Coop or directly from L'Escalade dans Lanaudiere club

Escalade de Rocher Weir



Pierre Cornellier 1998
out of print, a few people have photocopies

Val-David, GUIDE DES PAROIS D'ESCALADE



1994, Paul Laperrière et Bernard Poisson Les Editions La Cordée
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old but useful
Frankenjura Band 1

Northern Frankenjura Part 1



Sebastian Schwertner
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This is the newest release from Sebastian Schwertner covering the northern half of the northern Frankenjura. The described areas are: Leinleitertal, Wiesenttal, Gößweinstein, Püttlachtal, Weihersbachtal, Klumpertal, Ailsbachtal, Paradiestal, Kaiserbachtal, Scheßlitzer Gebiete, Staffelberg, Kleinziegenfelder Tal, Bärental and Zillertal. Unfortunately, these "areas" don't have any correspondence with those included here on MP.
Alex Megos on the cover of Frankenjura Band 2.

Northern Frankenjura Part 2



Sebastian Schwertner
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This newest release from Sebastian Schwertner covers the southern areas of the northern Frankenjura. The areas described are: Walberla, Trubachtal, Betzensteiner Gebiet, Spieser Gebiet, Schnaittacher Gebiet, Pegnitztal, Krottenseer Forst, Hirschbachtal, Königsteiner Gebiet, Lehental, Högenbachtal, Förrenbachtal and Lauterbachtal. Unfortunately, the "areas" described here do not directly correspond to those here on MP. They are more generalized, whereas those here on MP tend to go parking parking lot, and then into further detail of which crags are accessed from these parking lots.
Frankenjura 1

Frankenjura 2

Northern Frankenjura 1 & 2



Ulrich & Harald Röker
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These are the only guidebooks which provide descriptions in English. Parts 1 and 2 are laid out very similarly to the corresponding "Band 1" and "Band 2" written by Sebastian Schwertner, however the topos are more 3 dimensional. These are also not as up to date as the Schwertner guidebooks.
Northern Frankenjura Version 8

Northern Frankenjura



Bernhard Thum
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If you want it all in one volume, this is it. Though it was written in 2010, you've still got a lifetime's worth of routes here and don't need to fork out the €60 to get the brand new Schwertner guidebooks. The organization of this book is a little different from the rest as it doesn't need to divide the Frankenjura into two sections. Also, the book, as are the Schwertner books, is written entirely in German.
Frankenjura Extreme

Frankenjura Extreme



Sebastian Schwertner
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Last but not least is this small and abridged guidebook from Sebastian Schwertner, written for extreme climbers. This guidebook details, in English, the places you'll want to go in the northern Frankenjura if you warm up on 5.11. It is definitely written for the visiting climber and is therefore probably the best guidebook for the area for those of you thinking of coming for a visit. If you're interested in buying it beforehand you can get it at the given link, or I'll sell you my copy for €5 and you can pick it up from me when you get here.
To clarify, the book provides directions and descriptions for hard crags, which also often contain easier routes. So it's not exclusively for hard climbs.

Avon and Cheddar



Martin Crocker/The Climbers Club (2004)
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The definitive guide for Avon Gorge and some outlying areas (Goblin Combe, Brean,...) though the Cheddar volume is out of date.

Not the most modern style (published 2004), so lacking full-colour topo photos, but very useable. A particularly handy feature is the small size of the volume, meaning it fits in a pocket to take up the multi-pitch routes.

South West Climbs



Multiple authors/The Climbers' Club
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An excellent, extensive work in two volumes, covering the best of the climbing in the South West of the UK. Volume 1 (2012) covers Gloucestershire, Somerset and Dorset; while volume 2 (2014) covers the rest (Cornwall, Devon, Lundy and even the Channel Islands).

West Country Climbs



Mark Glaister/Rockfax (2010)
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The Rockfax select guide to the region, covering Avon & Somerset, Dorset and Devon & Cornwall (inland and coastal). In the usual Rockfax style, the guide is very clear and easy to use: an essential purchase for the occasional (or even frequent) visitor.

Coverage is good across most major crags/areas (except Cheddar Gorge and Lundy which, although mentioned, are not described in any detail) and quite a lot of minor areas, allowing you to escape the crowds.

Llanberis Slate



Pete Robins and Mark Dicken (amongst others)/Ground Up (2011)
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The slate guidebook.

This is a definitive guide, produced by local activists to an exceptional standard. It includes coverage of all the routes at the time of publication, and extensive historical anecdotes. The photo topos are very clear, and the numerous photos are inspiring. This book is set to be a classic in itself.

Llanberis



Iwan Afron Jones/The Climbers' Club (2009)
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The latest in a long series of guidebooks to the Llanberis Pass. Now up to date with colour photo topos, updated route descriptions and a set of inspiring action photos. Coverage is for the numerous crags on both sides of the pass, but not of the slate quarries.

Lundy



Paul Harrison/The Climbers' Club (2008)
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Fully revised since the last edition, in the modern style. The guidebook covers over 1000 routes on the island, including the new addition of a section on DWS. Also included is a 1:10,000 scale map of the island to aid the often complicated approaches.

Two supplements have been released since publication: one correcting major errors in the Knight Templar Rocks area; the other documenting new routes. Available for download at the link above.

Cheddar Gorge Climbs



Martin Crocker (2009)
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The only up-to-date guide to Cheddar gorge, detailing all the sport climbs and a selection of the best traditional routes. Also essential reading is the information about the strict access agreement, although this can also be found online.

The topos are good, as are the descriptions for the trad routes, but it can be a bit tricky to navigate at first, with its constant switching between portrait and landscape format. The binding is also pretty poor quality - don't expect the cover to stay on if you're using it heavily.

Portland



Steve Taylor/The Climbers' Club (2008)
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The 2008 definitive guide, documenting most of the routes (including the few remaining trad routes) and a lot of the bouldering on the island. A spate of new bolting following (due to?) its publication means that quite a lot of routes, particularly in the lower (sub-5.10) grades were missed out. The guide also contains extensive information about the climbing around Lulworth.

The book is very clear, following the modern style of full-colour photo topos alongside the route descriptions. It is printed in a strange A5 landscape format, but this doesn't affect usability in any way.

Dorset



Pete Oxley, Mark Glaister/Rockfax (2012)
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A select guide to the Dorset Jurassic coast, including extensive coverage of the popular areas of Portland, Lulworth and Swanage. In fact, this is the only current guidebook for Swanage. Due to its later publication date, it also includes a lot of routes on Portland that just missed inclusion in the latest definitive.

The guide conforms to the usual Rockfax style, with clear photo topos, concise route descriptions, and detailed approach information.

Scottish Rock Climbs



Andy Nisbet/The Scottish Mountaineering Club (2005)
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A popular (very) select guidebook, covering over 1200 routes across most of the main climbing areas in Scotland. This guidebook is great for the occasional visitor, but it must be emphasized that it really just scratches the surface: there are 11 comprehensive guidebooks (of a similar size) covering the same area as this one!

The Roaches



The BMC (2009)
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Staffordshire Gritstone
The Roaches
The Definitive Guide

The BMC have really pulled out the stops in producing this excellent guidebook, one of the best in the country. Comprehensive coverage of the Staffordshire gritstone outcrops, including:
The Roaches
Hen Cloud
Ramshaw Rocks
Newstones to Back Forest
The Churnet

The descriptions are colourful, the photos inspiring, and the historical anecdotes interesting and entertaining. In summary, this book is a must-have for the occasional visitor, the seasoned local, or any climber who just wants a good read!
Rock Climbing Taiwan (2012)

Rock Climbing Taiwan



Matt Robertson
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Published 2012, already becoming out-of-date. A very well-produced book with incredible photos and useful approach and historical information. Route protection, grade, safety, etc may vary wildly from book's (lack of) description.

Gower Rock



Stuart Llewellyn, Matt Woodfield/Pesda Press (2012)
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The most popular guide for the area is this new selective guide. It aims to document the best of the established trad lines, as well as the newly-added sport climbing on the peninsula.
Rock Deluxe North

Sample page. Very clear color photo topos.

Rock Deluxe North



John Palmer, Tom Hoyle and Kester Brown
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The most up to date resource for North Island Rock climbing (released September 2014). A one stop shop for info on the more popular crags. Does not feature every last route and area, nevertheless very comprehensive. Very clear topos and great photos, look no further.
Rock Deluxe North
Rock Deluxe North



Sample page. Very clear color photo topos.
Sample page. Very clear color photo topos.

Rock climbing in Taghia



By Enrico Maioni

INTRO
Due to my bad English, probaly you'll find some mistakes in my text, I'm sorry for that. I’d be grateful if you would correct my errors.

OVERVIEW
In September 2009, I went to Morocco with my friends of the "Scoiattoli di Cortina" group (the Squirrel Group; the most famous group of climbers of Italy). The purpose of our trip was to open a new route on one of the great walls of that area. The group has arranged the trip to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the founding of the "Squirrels Group".

The village and some surrounding mountains
The village and some surrounding mountains


GETTING THERE
Base to reach our goal is Marrakesh, which is about a 4 hour flight from Italy. The city is located in the center-south of the country, about 150 km from the coast of the Atlantic Ocean. We spend here our first afternoon in Africa, visiting the old city, the medina, enclosed within the walls, to the west of which arose the new city. We could not miss a visit to the labyrinthine souk (market) and the famous Djemaa el Fna Square, around which develops the old town and can be seen as the center of life (and absolutely characteristic) of Marrakesh.

On the road from Azilal to Zaouia Ahansal
On the road from Azilal to Zaouia Ahansal


The next day, after loading luggage and material on the cross-country vehicles, we begin our journey to Zaouia Ahansal (there are about a dozen different ways to spell this - it is pronounced zaa-we-ah), last village accessible by motorized vehicles: the duration of this transfer is about 6 hours, the first two on the paved roads and the rest on dirt road, mainly through the desert.

In Zaouia Ahansal are waiting for us some men with their mules, indispensable to carry the heavy baggage of ropes, bolts, climbing gear, food, clothing.
After many hours in the Jeep we all are looking forward to being able to walk a bit and stretch our legs, and we move briskly toward Taghia, where we will stay in a hut for a dozen days.
The valley of Zouîat Ahansal is the entrance door of the Circus of Taghia, where stands the homonymous small village of 400 inhabitants, located at 1.900 meters above sea level and accessible only on foot.
Thanks to an intelligent network of irrigation canals, the spectacular and abundant water sources offer a relative prosperity to the residents.

There is only this mini-shop in Taghia
There is only this mini-shop in Taghia


The village is surrounded by amazing walls and located in the heart of one of the most isolated regions of the Atlas, the great limestone plateau of Azilal, which is crossed by three major canyons: the n'Tazart Akka, Akka and n'Taghia Akka n'Tafrawt and presents some peaks that reach and exceed 3.000 m altitude. A short stroll from the village there are the canyons, whose walls vary in height from 300 to 900 meters.

ROCK CLIMBING IN TAGHIA


The first routes in the area were opened in 1975 by a group of French including Bernard Domenech (one of the current top experts about Africa mountaineering) and Erik Dechamp.

Federico Michielli on "Barracuda" - (7c+...
Federico Michielli on "Barracuda" - (7c+ - 590m) Mt. Oujdad


In the 80s and 90s, the area was frequented mainly by Spaniards, which opened a number of big wall, with stays in the wall even a week.
Good quality routes were then opened by another group of French, led by Remi Thivel and Christian Ravier. These climbs are difficult and protected from few bolts, always on the walls between 400 and 600 m.

I'm climbing up "Les rivières pourpres" ...
I'm climbing up "Les rivières pourpres" - (7c - 500m) Mt. Taoujdad


The first modern routes are by the Spaniard Toni Arbones and, in May 2003, by the trio Michel Piola, Benoit Robert and Arnaud Petit. The latter have left Taghia real jewels for climbing, including some beautiful climbs. I like to remember "Les rivieres pourpres" - 600 m - max 7b +.

In recent years many modern routes have been opened, fully equipped. The rock is a fantastic limestone very abrasive, which in a few days could consume even the toughest calluses.

Enrico climbing on "Zebda" (7b+ - Paroi ...
Enrico climbing on "Zebda" (7b+ - Paroi des Sources)


Despite this Taghia is unknown to almost all European mountaineers.
For the topo of the Taghia's climbs there is a great guidebook: "Taghia Montagnes Berbères" by Christian Ravier (mail: cravier [at] club-internet.fr).
Moreover, in the shelter (Gïte) Tawjdat, a big book contains handwritten sketches and reports of the most recent routes.

OUR ROUTE
Being the territory very vast and giving the walls a lot of possibilities to those who want to open a new route, we dedicated the first days in search of the mountain on which to draw the new route.
Obviously the rock in this area is not lacking, but also the aesthetics, the time required to approach the wall and the beauty of the line of the ascent play an important role in a successful enterprise.

Massimo Da Pozzo opening the new route
Massimo Da Pozzo opening the new route


After a careful search of the area, the choice fell on the south face of Mount Oujdad, which can be reached in less than two hours from the village.
At this point it was necessary to find a base where setting up the camp, because to reach every day the base of the wall from the village would have resulted in a waste of time and energy. After some research we found a cave that is well suited for the purpose: it is located a short distance from the start of the route and a stream provides us with the necessary water.

Massimo Da Pozzo climbing the new route on Mt. Ouj...
Massimo Da Pozzo climbing the new route on Mt. Oujdad


The following days are dedicated to the new route. The main architects of the climb were Massimo Da Pozzo, Luigi Majoni, Federico Michielli and Bruno Sartorelli, but obviously all the others Squirrels have contributed to the success of the enterprise.
The opening of the new route, which was dedicated to the Squirrel Luigi Ghedina "Bibi", took a week, and the result was excellent. The line is spread to the left of the route "Barracuda", with which it joins and has in common the last pitch. The rock is exceptional and the difficulty high. A short section of the 5th pitch was not climb "free", and the difficulty is hypothesized to 8a + / 8b.

ROUTE
P1: 6c – 55m
P2: 7A – 45m
P3: 7B/7b+ – 35m
P4: 7c – 25m
P5: 7C+/A1 – 30m
P6: 6C+ – 25M
P7: 6C – 40m
P8: 7B – 35m
P9: 6B – 40m
P10: 6A – 40m
P11: 6b – 50m (last pitch of "Barracuda")

Download Topo PDF

DESCENT
Two options:
1 - Rappelling along the route
2 - Along the normal route of Mount Oujdad: to reach the top you have to climb the last four lengths of the route "Baraka" (IV - V + - + 6a - 6b).

GEAR
The climb is fully equipped with bolts. Trad gear can be helpful if you are going to ride the last part of the route "Baraka".

CLIMBERS
Marco Alberti - Massimo Da Pozzo - Paolo Da Pozzo - Stefano Dimai - Davide Gaspari -Simone Girardi - Enrico Maioni - Luigi Majoni - Samuele Majoni - Alessandro Menardi - Marcello Menardi Demai - Federico Michielli - Bruno Sartorelli - Monica Zardini - Ruggero Zardini

ACCOMODATION
In Taghia:
Saïd Messaoudi – Rifugio Gïte Tawjdat
00212 (0)68246536

Youssef – Hmad Rezki
“La Maison de Taghia”
00212 (0)23459608 / Fax:00212 (0)459608

In Zaouia Ahanesal:
Ahmed Amahdar
00212 (0)23459393 / 00212 (0)78538882

Both Gites offer meals. It is recommended that you sterilise all water before drinking – even the 'drinkable' water, severe stomach upsets are commonly reported by visiting climbers. We used a substantial amount of ciprofloxacin to keep our health problems at bay – it may be worthwhile to stock up on this or other antibiotics.

EXTERNAL LINKS
Photo gallery on my site
More information - www.lanochedelloro.com
More information - www.remi-thivel.com

GEOPOSITION
Zaouia Ahansal: 31.832868, -6.1041283
Taghia: 31.7881417,-6.0746241
Mt. Oujdad: 31.781300, -6.086485

MP Taghia Album

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A must for any visiting boulderer, this is the definitive guide to the classic problems in Rocklands central areas. However, as it will immediately become apparent, many of the more recent FA's are not covered in the current edition.

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The indispensable guidebook to New Brunswick.

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An excellent guide composed and written by local Jürgen Schmeißer, providing detailed information and topos for all areas, formations and crags in the Zittau Mountains (Zittauer Gebirge).

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The full-colour, third edition of Squamish Select features over 1,500 routes and won the best guidebook category at the 2012 Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival. It provides extensive coverage of Murrin Park, Shannon Falls, the Malamute, the Chief, Slhanay (the Squaw), Smoke Bluffs, Cheakamus Canyon and many other minor areas. There’s enough climbing in this book to keep you busy for years!

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This large format book is destined to be as much of a classic as the original book by Gaston Rebuffat of a similar title.

The book is organized from easy to most difficult best routes in the range, with excellent color photos, route topos, recommended gear list and route descriptions. Some routes are the same as in the original Rebuffat route list, but many are new additions only recently accessible with modern ice climbing tools and techniques which were not available in the early seventies.
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